pfact

My Feedback: (92)

Does anyone have a digital/CAD file with the outline of the Moki 300 that you could share with me?

I'd like to use it to cut a baffle that fits in the Airworld Gee Bee cowl.

Phil

tmac48

You can purchase the baffle,

ReneAlv

My Feedback: (5)

Have a fuel pump for sale. Used but in great condition. Asking price $125.00
Power fuel 380HV. If interested email [email protected]

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

Does anyone know of a source for the pulse tube, other than genuine Moki parts? THANKS

Hyjinx

Festo tubing (and fittings) are available on Amazon. Just googled it.
Are you using the stock internal pump? Just wondering. I am thinking of not using an external pump on my 250.

ReneAlv

My Feedback: (5)

This item was SOLD

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

I am working on a Moki 150 for a fellow club member. Just discovered his cylinder #3 spark plug hole is stripped. I ordered a Helicoil spark plug repair kit... 10mm x 1mm
Doesn't look terribly difficult to me. Anyone ever do this? If so, what was the result?

Hyjinx

I've had better results with Time Cert.https://www.timesert.com/

Moki Radial Service USA

Selling for a friends widow. NIB 215 Looks like its never been run. $2200.00 I can sent picks if interested Thanks

Ragz

Today I ran up the Moki 250 for the first time since it came back from a factory repair. I am running an SEP 32x18 two blade prop. The needle settings are 1.75 and 1.25 as per factory,

I find that the 11 o clock cylinder is not firing. The temp is not increasing above 45-47C. The other cylinders are going up between 80-100C. I have checked the plug and I can see that when I remove the plug it’s quite wet. The other plugs are quite dry as they should be. I have also installed new plugs. The max ground rpm is only 3300. I remember this used to be around 3800 with the same 32x18 prop.

Any advice?

Moki Radial Service USA

What was done to the engine?

tmac48

You will find that you have a faulty coil on No 2 (11 O'CLOCK)

Ragz

That would be sad for an engine that has just returned from germany from a factory repair. It would mean sending it back to germany for coil replacement. Unless it can be done at home?

Could there be any other reason? Is there a way to test if the particular coil is creating a spark in the plug? In a regular 2 stroke petrol engine, I have achieved this test by removing the plugs and installing them in the plug caps and rotating the prop, thereby creating a spark.

Hyjinx

Don't ground the spark plug to the engine itself if testing for spark. The shielded plug wires are the ground
The ground must return to the ignition or ithe unit will fail. Grounding to the engine was the way we always tested coils and ign. components in the past, but Adrian at CH warned me against it. These CDI ignitions are different than the old systems.
Can you swap the coil to a different cylinder and see if the problem persists?
And yes, this is disconcerting if the engine was just returned from a manufacturer in a non runnable state.
If I may respectfully ask, why did the engine require factory service?
Aaron-

Ragz

The engine was involved in a crash on a carf p47. Since then it was sent to Airworld and it returned few months ago after a full factory repair/service.

Ragz

I will try to swap the cables between cylinder 1 and 2 and check. Possibly tweak needle H and L as well. Engine starts in a few flicks though and I am using the APS fuel pump.

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

You can check for the presence of a spark on any plug. The lack of a spark will be obvious.

I purchased a brand new Moki 180 and had TWO coil failures on cylinder #3. The engine was never crashed or mishandled in any way... the coil on #3 just FAILED.

This required I ship it back across the country twice for warranty repairs, resulting in the display stand and shipping container being destroyed in transit.
After a complete coil pack replacement, I finally had a reliable engine, but find Moki's entire ignition system to be antiquated and unreliable.

For the price, Moki's should come with a RainbowTronics ignition or equivalent... NOT coils buried in the hostile environment of the crankcase!

Ragz

I have checked the presence of a spark in all the plugs. What else can I try besides leaning out the needles and possibly swapping the cables between cylinders 1 and 2.

thanks

Hyjinx

Yup. Factory service should have caught a coil after a crash. Surprisingly disappointing. Looking at my 250-7 today, swapping the coils for testing is impractical.
Seems like a simpler test would be "running the motor " with a starter (for a consistent rpm) with all plugs removed in a dark environment. May catch a inconsistent bug without disassembly. Respectfully
Aaron-
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Ragz

Today, I tried a few more things. Recharged the ignition battery again. Increased the spark plug gap a wee bit to get a stronger spark. Also tried swapping the cables of #1 with #2 (this resulted in both cylinders 1 and 2 not firing). More drama.

I also leaned out the L needle until engine wanted to gasp and stop. Leaned out the H needle a bit too, but max rpm never went above 3240 with an SEP 32x18 (with all spark plug cables in original place).

I contacted Dr. G at Vogelsang, he suggested getting a new ignition unit from Rainbow-tronic. Apprantely that may solve the problem even if the engine coil is a bit weak.

I dont know if the fault lies in the engine and its coils, or the blue flat box (ignition unit) on its own.

Totally confused.

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

Ragz - have you considered a bad hall sensor cable. The wiring is very delicate where they connect to the terminal plug. Sometimes a shorted wire can work intermittently. I had one go bad. Another I borrowed was also bad. If you can find the correct plug I have heard some can replace the plug with careful attention. BTW - I fly with an SEP 32 x 18 prop. Max RPM is 4200 consistently.
Another option is the ignition module sold by CH Ignitions in the USA.

Regards - J Tab

Ragz

I didn't think of this aspect. I will check this connector. Can a hall sensor cable defect cause a one cylinder to not fire at all?

Ragz

I checked the hall sensor cable as well as the connector. The connector looks pretty solid, however the cable does like a bit pinched and worn out. But I think that is just the outer heat shield casing that looks worn out. Attaching some pics.

Howie-RCU

If you have a weak coil then opening the plug gap will make it harder to get a spark. Better off closing the gap a bit.

Rainbow-tronic will work if you have bad coil/s because it has its own coils. It by passes the Moki coils.

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

Easy to follow video showing how to test for spark on a Moki coil pack.