FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

One airplane I built but never got to fly before it had a fatal accident was the Dr Michael Hawkins Dornier-D.1 from Flying Scale Models issues Sep and Oct 2006. It was the radiator that caught my eye. He powered it with an Enya .46 4C MK II.

1200SportsterRider

Thanks Mike, I have often wondered if that name is pronounced Dornyay or Dorneer..

modeltronics

My Feedback: (27)

Yes Gary

Jesse Open

Pete, that was used to eject case vented products into the muffler. Never really caught on.
I am using a side tap on the velocity stack to handle case vent juice. Makes a huge difference.

Glowgeek

Yep, imo that's the best way to recycle the CC vent oil. The oil slugs get thoroughly remixed before entering the intake port.

Routing the CC vent to higher up on the intake manifold (OS style) works too but can cause some sporadic running behavior (transition from idle) as slugs of CC oil enter the intake port.

One day I'll do the mod to all my Saitos.

Jesse Open

One oil slug can hold back a lot of air At real low idles it can be the difference between idling and shutting down!

modeltronics

My Feedback: (27)

I have a couple of these that came with 120 engines. So far I've not needed to use one.

Jesse Open

Don't recall seeing those.
Have you checked it for flow and direction?
Those side port appear a lot like vacume breaker relief ports.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

The FA-270T came with one packaged with the exhaust gaskets. If you look on Page 5 of the above manual it has the instructions for use. I guess I won't be using the nipple on the one muffler pipe to pressurize the tank.

Glowgeek

I would skip using that "thingy" and instead use the conventional muffer nipple to fuel tank setup. Having muffler pressure helps to compensate for varying levels of fuel in your tank. It also allows for easily priming the engine with your finger over the exhaust outlet. Win win.

If you're wanting to keep the engine bay and the rest of the plane clean you can carefully drill and tap the velocity stack for a nipple, then JBweld the nipple in place and run your CC vent there.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I'll probably make something like this.

Jesse Open

Did that very early on. Also did it internally, ran the tube fhru the middle of the muffler.

The stack helps in two ways, contains most of, if notvall the fuel standoff as well as handling the vent oil. Considerably less plumbing work involved.
A simple, flanged tube, soldered cleanly in place. Solid and simple.

YS 53 magnesium muffler. Inlet bushed and threaded to fit Saito exhaust. New extended tailpiece made from aluminum bar. The case vent tube runs thru the muffler.

1/8\" flanged tube. The flange is contoured to closely fit, then sweat soldered in place On exhaust pipes, hard solder on intake stacks, soft solder is fine.

90 degree fittings work well to keep things close.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Hats of to you! I can't fault your designs, you have a great deal of skill and resources I don't have. My design is born out of a necessity of simplicity and a minimum of tools to complete.

Jesse Open

Not knocking, explaining the reasoning that affects decisions.

Most of the brass tube work uses very basic tools.
That is exactly why I show it. Meant as encouragement for people with limited access to machinery. Even then, with a little looking around, often a good lathe can be found for less than the price of some of the engines we buy.

That first brass elbow was a store bought $.35 5mm brass plug. A side hole was drilled in the side with a $2 garage sale Black & Decker 1955 vintage power drill. The hose barb was hand formed from 1/8" brass tube and soldered in place with heat from a small butane torch.

Dad always said never blame tools or bemoan the tools you may not have.

Jesse Open

Saito rocker covers after 10 hours run time.

Cleaned out these covers and adjusted valves 10 hours run time ago. Home brew 14-14 methanol fuel, 30w non detergent motor oil used as ARO. Photo taken directly upon removal.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I didn't think you were I was just commenting on your superior craftsmanship! Though if I think about it I probably could add a tube to an existing velocity stack. Speaking of old tools I have an old 1940s Black & Decker drill with a drill press stand, it won't die. I had the replace the cord due to dry rot but she is still going!

Jesse Open

Naw, I can see loads of true craft and art in many of your planes.

Tip: Don't drill the tube until after you solder the side tube in place. Then, select a drill that closely fits the ID of the side tube, using minimal pressure, and a bit of cutting oil, drill the hole carefully so as to avoid snagging and hogging through.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks for the tip!

Jesse Open

Your Saito parts left here early this morning.
Enjoy.




EDIT:
Just occured to me; I hope it was the jam nuts that you were looking for.

Westley

Please help me understand why my Saito engine uses 4oz fuel in just 30 seconds. I have checked valve adjustment .030. This is my second engine to consume very much fuel. Why?
Thanks

Westley

Sorry, valves adjusted to spec. .003

1200SportsterRider

What size Saito engine? What prop, how much nitro?

Jesse Open

fa-82 gk

Glowgeek

Saito never produced a glow engine that consumee 8 oz of fuel per minute when tuned properly......so

First think to check for is a leak in the fueling system. Next thing would be to start leaning the mixture screw (low speed needle) and high speed needles properly.

If you need help with tuning your best bet is to find someone locally that has 4 stroke tuning experience. If no one is available someone here can walk you through it.

1200SportsterRider

How is this for similar to the early version, the FA 40-a is in there smiling. I have a more proper prop nut coming Friday