rockinro

hey guys

I was just checking out a new hobby store in my area and found that they sell SH engines (which r pretty cheap in comparison to other brands).

I run a 1/8 Inferno buggy (.21 - .28), and was wondering if these engines were any good and how they perform across the rpm range, and how they compare to other engines (O.S. V-Specs, italian mills...)?

Any feedback is appreciated.

Thanks!!

Foxy

They are VERY good sport engines, and can be used for racing in a pinch. SH is made by Golden Lion, and they in turn make engines for LRP, Nosram, Thunder Tiger, Associated, and many other supposed OEM brands. Good engines, don't hesitate to try one.

qaiz

Yupp, I run the .28 version.

This engine SUPRISED me, its 100% better than what I figured it out to be.

They're really making a name for themselves and it shows why.!

You wont be dissappointed.

If you can get your hands on the P6 - Its the same as the LRP Spec 2 with a differient cooling head.

Otherwise do what I did, get the P3, and the piston sleeve from the P6, and yeah.

Quite a good zippy lil' engine. I really like it.

qaiz

Whats your budget, I know how the local pricing works...

Let me know, if your talking about Hobby Home, deal ONLY with a guy called Usman, he actually knows what he's saying.!

If your dealing with Kajoor, no worries there, just try and haggle for a discount...

twomanytoys

Thunder Tiger and Sh/Golden Lion have nothing to do with each other. Thunder tiger manufactures thier own engines.

rockinro

thanks guys for the feedback! Looks like I'll be getting an SH...just have to figure out if I should go for the .21 or the .28 (I race in the open class), any suggestions?

Qaiz, where u on the track this weekend for the race?

Foxy

We've had this conversation before. Golden Lion makes SOME Thunder Tiger engines.

The Winner

if you have buggy go with sh 21 2008 engine it has a ceramic piston! exelent engine!

SManMTB

It doesn't have a cheramic piston.

qaiz

Yupp

Was running for exactly 1 lap and my CRT decided to kill itself.

Dude dont worry about the class, I just got back from a race, and anything goes here.

Theres a race in two weeks, if you wanna join let me or Rashid ( Owner of Kajoor ) know.

I heavily doubt it that ill be up and running, got TOO much on my plate.

Go to Kajoor, and pick up the SH .28 P6 and be done with it. Thats what im doing, my P 3 is running strong, destroyed a lot of trucks today

rockinro

I was at the track this weekend buddy...will be there hopefully for the next race in 2 weeks.

still not sure if I should go .21 or .28, I know this has been discussed several times on these forums, but frankly I'm discouraged to go through all the posts to find it...

thanks all for ur inputs.

qaiz

Was there the entire day yesterday, from around 10AM - 7PM...

Im buying another SH, .28 P6 MX this week hopefully.

I love this line of engines.!

rockinro

see u next weekend...would like to see ur SH before I buy one

qaiz

No worries.

Give them a try, I have 2 at the moment, 1's a P3, 1's a P3 Piston with a P6 sleeve

I mostly come on Saturdays tho, hardly ever Fridays.

chrobar

Just to add, I run the stock .28SH in my CEN Matrix, and it runs great. It's fast and easy to tune and breaks in like a dream. Highly recommended..

savagedan89

is it safe to use the p6 sleeve in a p3 block and piston and whats th epower diffrence

twomanytoys

Yes its safe. The p3 and p6 are teh same except for teh ports. The p6 sleeve is a nice upgrade to teh p3.

bajanrc

i have had two sh engines one off and one onroad. I have never been able to get these engines tuned. There both would get the idel good but at full trottle it boogs and shuts down.
i tried everything and just cannit get it tuned always shuts down on trottle.

i changed the pipe and the carberator and still does not run for long it shuts down.

any ideas on what to do.
brian

1QwkSport2.5r

You need to learn how to properly tune the carburetor. Truck/car engine carburetors can be tricky to set because of there being two common needle valve lengths (and these two needle lengths determines which order you set them. Learning how these carburetors work is really helpful - knowing the WHY helps with the HOW.

There are short needles and long needles; which are each set differently. You need to determine which type needle you have; looking through the top of the carburetor, open the throttle to full and note where the idle needle tip is - is it completely out of the spraybar (you would see a gap between the needle tip and inside of the carb throat), or is the needle tip still inside the spraybar (carb body)? Once you determine which style needle you have, then you can move onto tuning. In general, the needle in a fixed seat is always set first. This would be the main needle, or the high speed needle. Because the seat is fixed, this setting is not dynamic, and thus will not change with different throttle positions. The main needle controls overall fuel flow, as well as the high speed mixture for WOT. Now backing up a little, let’s set some ground rules. Lean engines quit. Rich engines rarely quit unless they are sloppy rich. It’s always a good practice to set the high speed to a known rich position. 2-3 turns out from LIGHTLY seated is usually alright. The idle needle head set flush with the throttle valve (where the servo linkage connects) is typical. If the carb is a short needle, you would get the engine running and work it up to WOT once warmed up. If it’s slow and boggy to get moving, lean the low speed until you can get it to throttle up. Once you can get it to WOT (assuming it’s sloppy rich), note how it runs up to speed. Slow, burbly, and smokey = rich. Lean the high speed in 1/16th turn increments until you get it to run at WOT clean and crisp. Once the high speed is set for a clean WOT run, you set the low speed. One important factor for setting the low speed is having the idle gap set correctly. If this is set incorrectly, you will never get a proper needle setting. New engines typically need 0.7-0.9mm gap at first; once they’re broken in and ready for performance tuning, the idle gap should be reduced down to 0.5-0.6mm. The idle gap is the gap between the carb body and end of the throttle valve with the throttle closed and held to the idle position. Assuming the engine is broken in, I would set the idle gap at 0.5mm. With the high speed set for a clean WOT run without quitting or cutting out, set the idle needle leaner in small increments until the idle speed is low and stable, and throttles up cleanly. Don’t stay the throttle open and closed like a light switch. Ease into it a little. When it starts rich and you work leaner, it will take a few adjustments to get it right. You want it set so it will idle and throttle up cleanly after idling for 5-10 seconds. Ideally, you’ll want it to be slightly loaded up after 15-20 seconds. When your idle is set well, you’ll have a two-step idle. When you do a WOT pass, bring the truck close and let it sit at idle. It will idle a little high for a few seconds, and then the rpm will drop a little lower yet. This means the idle mixture is slightly rich of perfect - which a basher will need. After running hard in grass or something, the rich idle mixture will help cool the chamber down after a hard run that heats the head and glow plug hot.

Long needle carbs are set similar - main needle sets for overall fuel flow, but the idle needle controls fuel flow throughout the throttle range. Short needles only control fuel flow from idle to about 1/2 throttle; main needle from 1/2 to wide open. It is easily possible to have the low speed too rich and high speed too lean so there is some compensation in the middle rev range, but too lean on the top end (causing it to quit).

To be successful with an SH engine, or really any decent quality engine, do this:

Use MEDIUM heat range LONG reach glow plugs.
Use fuel with no more than 12% oil content, with that being a castor/synthetic blend.
20% nitro is ideal.. More nitro just causes more trouble and isn’t worth it.
Traxxas fuel is garbage (16% oil). Never use it.

I’ve had numerous SH engines; all with short needle carbs. They all ran well and needled quite easily. Knowing HOW your carburetor functions will help you properly set it.

bajanrc

[QUOTE=1QwkSport2.5r;12805733]You need to learn how to properly tune the carburetor. Truck/car engine carburetors can be tricky to set because of there being two common needle valve lengths (and these two needle lengths determines which order you set them. Learning how these carburetors work is really helpful - knowing the WHY helps with the HOW.

There are short needles and long needles; which are each set differently. You need to determine which type needle you have; looking through the top of the carburetor, open the throttle to full and note where the idle needle tip is - is it completely out of the spraybar (you would see a gap between the needle tip and inside of the carb throat), or is the needle tip still inside the spraybar (carb body)? Once you determine which style needle you have, then you can move onto tuning. In general, the needle in a fixed seat is always set first. This would be the main needle, or the high speed needle. Because the seat is fixed, this setting is not dynamic, and thus will not change with different throttle positions. The main needle controls overall fuel flow, as well as the high speed mixture for WOT. Now backing up a little, let’s set some ground rules. Lean engines quit. Rich engines rarely quit unless they are sloppy rich. It’s always a good practice to set the high speed to a known rich position. 2-3 turns out from LIGHTLY seated is usually alright. The idle needle head set flush with the throttle valve (where the servo linkage connects) is typical. If the carb is a short needle, you would get the engine running and work it up to WOT once warmed up. If it’s slow and boggy to get moving, lean the low speed until you can get it to throttle up. Once you can get it to WOT (assuming it’s sloppy rich), note how it runs up to speed. Slow, burbly, and smokey = rich. Lean the high speed in 1/16th turn increments until you get it to run at WOT clean and crisp. Once the high speed is set for a clean WOT run, you set the low speed. One important factor for setting the low speed is having the idle gap set correctly. If this is set incorrectly, you will never get a proper needle setting. New engines typically need 0.7-0.9mm gap at first; once they’re broken in and ready for performance tuning, the idle gap should be reduced down to 0.5-0.6mm. The idle gap is the gap between the carb body and end of the throttle valve with the throttle closed and held to the idle position. Assuming the engine is broken in, I would set the idle gap at 0.5mm. With the high speed set for a clean WOT run without quitting or cutting out, set the idle needle leaner in small increments until the idle speed is low and stable, and throttles up cleanly. Don’t stay the throttle open and closed like a light switch. Ease into it a little. When it starts rich and you work leaner, it will take a few adjustments to get it right. You want it set so it will idle and throttle up cleanly after idling for 5-10 seconds. Ideally, you’ll want it to be slightly loaded up after 15-20 seconds. When your idle is set well, you’ll have a two-step idle. When you do a WOT pass, bring the truck close and let it sit at idle. It will idle a little high for a few seconds, and then the rpm will drop a little lower yet. This means the idle mixture is slightly rich of perfect - which a basher will need. After running hard in grass or something, the rich idle mixture will help cool the chamber down after a hard run that heats the head and glow plug hot.

Long needle carbs are set similar - main needle sets for overall fuel flow, but the idle needle controls fuel flow throughout the throttle range. Short needles only control fuel flow from idle to about 1/2 throttle; main needle from 1/2 to wide open. It is easily possible to have the low speed too rich and high speed too lean so there is some compensation in the middle rev range, but too lean on the top end (causing it to quit).

To be successful with an SH engine, or really any decent quality engine, do this:

Use MEDIUM heat range LONG reach glow plugs.
Use fuel with no more than 12% oil content, with that being a castor/synthetic blend.
20% nitro is ideal.. More nitro just causes more trouble and isn’t worth it.
Traxxas fuel is garbage (16% oil). Never use it.

I’ve had numerous SH engines; all with short needle carbs. They all ran well and needled quite easily. Knowing HOW your carburetor functions will help you properly set it.[/QUOTE

I have been tuning my engines for 15 years and all other engjnes are so easy. I have os engines, rody tuned and ielastituned, novarossi And all i do is turn the main needle 1/4 turn in and set the idle and the low speed needle to get the idle and off i go. But these stupid SH ENGINES ARE S@#T SO I THROWING IT AWAY. HATE THEM!!!!!!!!!
but thanks for the info i will never buy a SH engine. There is a saying " cheap thing no good"

1QwkSport2.5r

[QUOTE=bajanrc;12805750]Let’s grow up a bit here. I never said they tune like a Novarossi. Your post screams “nitro newbie”, so that’s why I wasted the time I did to explain it. I’ve used number one SH engines - they all tuned and ran fine. For the most part, they’re easy to set and run for the day. They outlast the OS garbage easily 5:1. Nova kicks everyone’s butt mostly - Picco being BA too.

Clearly you don’t understand everything that a seasoned guy should. I don’t care how long you’ve been doing it.. if you knew what you seem to claim, you’d have no issues with these engines. Period. Instead of throwing it in the trash, ship it to me and I’ll put it to use. My Novas and Piccos could use some company - they don’t hate on SH.