Welcome to Club SAITO !
Pete, Todd,Dave,
Pete: Good to hear from you all. Been getting in loads of flying time. Average about 4 days per week, usually stay there at least 8 hours. The 1992 vintage LT-40 (FA-72) got over 53 hours air time so far. The Toledo Special, Eagle 63, (Saito FA-82 Saito FA-50) have picked up a lot of air time as well. Picked up a Seagull Ultimate and installing the FA-130 twin in that.
Todd: Sorry to hear about the conrod ! Pretty timely as I had just walked in from replacing the countershaft bearings and drive belts on a 1969 vintage 10 inch Clausing lathe. Had to get out the bearing pullers for that job.
Years ago, after seeing for too many prop drives buggered I decided to make a bullet proof reliable puller. It uses full contact, split collets to pull the drive. Rather than press against the crank tip it also uses a hollow sleeve to press directly against the end of the split tapered drive cone. Just a few details to make things go smoothly and easily every time
That said, there are plenty of other ways. You have seen the jaw type already but there are others.
There is available, a two piece bearing separator that is handy for several jobs. It is used with draw bolts to pull bearings etc from shafts. One side is flat the other is wedge tapered. That allows it to slip between a bearing and a shoulder to wedge the bearing away. For pulling bearings, another benefit is that the pulling force is applied to the inner race rather than the outer. This minimizes bearing damage in the event the bearings are to be re-used. Pulling by the outer race can easily damage the bearings. While the bearing comments may not apply to hub pulling; it is nice to know in the event to need to remove a bearing.
Bottom line is you can get a plate type, draw bolt puller and the bearing separator for about 1/2 the price of a jaw type. Shop around on Amazon a bit before you decide
Layout of the home made hub puller
Bearing separator used with steering wheel type draw bolt puller.
Very handy puller package at low cost .
Same principle as pulling the drive hub
Large and small uses.
By the way, which Saito do you need the rod for ?
I have a few conrods on hand. Maybe I can help.
Pete: Good to hear from you all. Been getting in loads of flying time. Average about 4 days per week, usually stay there at least 8 hours. The 1992 vintage LT-40 (FA-72) got over 53 hours air time so far. The Toledo Special, Eagle 63, (Saito FA-82 Saito FA-50) have picked up a lot of air time as well. Picked up a Seagull Ultimate and installing the FA-130 twin in that.
Todd: Sorry to hear about the conrod ! Pretty timely as I had just walked in from replacing the countershaft bearings and drive belts on a 1969 vintage 10 inch Clausing lathe. Had to get out the bearing pullers for that job.
Years ago, after seeing for too many prop drives buggered I decided to make a bullet proof reliable puller. It uses full contact, split collets to pull the drive. Rather than press against the crank tip it also uses a hollow sleeve to press directly against the end of the split tapered drive cone. Just a few details to make things go smoothly and easily every time
That said, there are plenty of other ways. You have seen the jaw type already but there are others.
There is available, a two piece bearing separator that is handy for several jobs. It is used with draw bolts to pull bearings etc from shafts. One side is flat the other is wedge tapered. That allows it to slip between a bearing and a shoulder to wedge the bearing away. For pulling bearings, another benefit is that the pulling force is applied to the inner race rather than the outer. This minimizes bearing damage in the event the bearings are to be re-used. Pulling by the outer race can easily damage the bearings. While the bearing comments may not apply to hub pulling; it is nice to know in the event to need to remove a bearing.
Bottom line is you can get a plate type, draw bolt puller and the bearing separator for about 1/2 the price of a jaw type. Shop around on Amazon a bit before you decide
Layout of the home made hub puller
Bearing separator used with steering wheel type draw bolt puller.
Very handy puller package at low cost .
Same principle as pulling the drive hub
Large and small uses.
By the way, which Saito do you need the rod for ?
I have a few conrods on hand. Maybe I can help.
Last edited by Jesse Open; 10-05-2024 at 02:14 PM.
Senior Member
I just made something, not as involved as a gear puller, but a die holder for an M4 x0.5 die that is only .8" in diameter. I'm still thinking about how to finish it. I don't need bars on as I'll only use it in the lathe jaws. The die is held in place by (3) 6-32 grubs screws which I managed to place perfectly. I'm glad I didn't take the manufacturers word for the diameter, it's really 0.7845, It's to cut threads on the rear facing vents I make for Saito's. I had made a couple with M4 x 0.7 and had unknowingly got away with it.
Last edited by 1200SportsterRider; 10-06-2024 at 04:58 AM. Reason: Add image
My Feedback: (6)
Well a couple weeks ago I lost my old mentor and 1947 NATS C/L winner Les Barry Jr. He left me his planes, engines, kits, and assorted paraphernalia. Unfortunately he only own one 4 cycle engine, see below. I hope this doesn't make me a social outcast in this thread! Maybe I can sell it and buy a nice Saito?
Senior Member
Thanks Gary, I used it yesterday and it works fiine..I have two M4 x 0.5 taps coming tomorrow.
Okey, the OS 62 is one fine engine, your collection won't mind it at al. It's now a 64 with a key in the prop driver.
Okey, the OS 62 is one fine engine, your collection won't mind it at al. It's now a 64 with a key in the prop driver.
Dave, good deal on the vent job. They look sweet too. Have a look on Amazon, you can find the small brass threaded hose barbs in bulk at good prices.
The key on those V Series O.S. engines should relieve the anxiety for quite a few of the more timid type I used to carry spare O.S. crank keys in my field box. Back in the day it was amazing how many of those keys were dropped into the grass and gone forever!
Bet the price of the new FV-64 took a bit of a bump. Cutting the key seat in the crank and the keyway in the hub surely costs a bit more than the Double-D flats they had used.
Okie, Only one four stroke? Shameful!
But it is a good one You will get to remember your friend every time you start it. Should come along with a fine warm smile
The key on those V Series O.S. engines should relieve the anxiety for quite a few of the more timid type I used to carry spare O.S. crank keys in my field box. Back in the day it was amazing how many of those keys were dropped into the grass and gone forever!
Bet the price of the new FV-64 took a bit of a bump. Cutting the key seat in the crank and the keyway in the hub surely costs a bit more than the Double-D flats they had used.
Okie, Only one four stroke? Shameful!
But it is a good one You will get to remember your friend every time you start it. Should come along with a fine warm smile
Senior Member
OSMW soon to be released new model, Pirate Stik, It looks great: https://www.oldschoolmodels.com/raider-aws24.htm
The Raider, a natural for a Saito.
The Raider, a natural for a Saito.
Last edited by 1200SportsterRider; Yesterday at 08:10 AM.
My Feedback: (6)
NGK CM-6 spark plugs?
Before I post these do any of you guys running ignition use NGK CM-6 spark plugs? I have 24 new in the package and was going to put them in the classified section but I thought I would give you guys first shot at them. Please PM! Thanks, Mike
Senior Member
Gary, I haven't ordered one, thinking, thinking, I'm in the maybe stage. He's coming out with a second new model, I'm going to wait and see what it is.
Mike, I have several of those, so I'm good for now, Thanks, Dave
Mike, I have several of those, so I'm good for now, Thanks, Dave
Saito62
Last edited by easystar123; Today at 03:53 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Hyjinx (Today)
OSMW soon to be released new model, Pirate Stik, It looks great: https://www.oldschoolmodels.com/raider-aws24.htm
The Raider, a natural for a Saito.
The Raider, a natural for a Saito.
Well a couple weeks ago I lost my old mentor and 1947 NATS C/L winner Les Barry Jr. He left me his planes, engines, kits, and assorted paraphernalia. Unfortunately he only own one 4 cycle engine, see below. I hope this doesn't make me a social outcast in this thread! Maybe I can sell it and buy a nice Saito?
I would describe myself as a Saito fanatic and have been since the early 1990s. All my fourstrokes are exclusively Saito except one. A few years ago i bought an OS 95v when it first came out. I put it in a brand new Great Planes Escapade 61. All these years later, that engine is still flying that plane. If I had anything bad to say about it its the prop driver. I had to change it a couple of times due to it coming loose. Other than that, it's a brilliant running engine. But still not as good as my Saitos.
Last edited by Jesse Open; Today at 04:56 AM.
[QUOTE=Jesse Open;12807846]I made a brass shim to take up the slop.Did the same for a couple friends. Never ad a problem with my FS-95V.
Thats fantastic Jesse. Really well done.
Spoiler
https://youtu.be/gdAUoJ9ok5Y
Maiden flight of my brand new Saito 62 powered float plane at the Manor Lake Kilrea. 2012
Maiden flight of my brand new Saito 62 powered float plane at the Manor Lake Kilrea. 2012
Yes, its an Arc Ready mark 3 sold by Thunder Tiger but originally by Arc. It has the factory floats, but its not powered by an 82, its powered by a Saito 62 which was more than sufficient. Thanks and cheers for watching. Regards Aidan.
Senior Member
The rear facing vent for the FA 40a is complete, I had to make it compact as you can see. The prop visible below is a dummy up move on my part, ordered because I didn't pay close attention.
Ok thanks Easystar. I haven't been here much lately, not much Saito going on this summer. Currently flying a OS FR-300 and UMS 125 radials. BUT, this is my favorite float plane. I have one in the box. One painted but not assembled, and one that failed on maiden (repairable) but not fixed yet Staying Saito here (moderator please bear with me) my relatively fresh FA 62 would not get it off the he water adequate for my environment. It would fly it ok but takeoff was too slow for choppy lake Michigan water. 60 series two strokes became a necessity unfortunately. (Althou
Although I hate two strokes even though better suited for float planes due to bushings rather than ball bearings. Question here, what glue did you use on assembly?
My recent one was epoxied, and failed at the wing joiner on maiden in a loop. I am hesitant to use epoxy again ( I did not sand the parts for the glue and felt like it was my failure). I am hesitant now. I'm expecting you may be using an ABS welding style glue on your builds?
My recent one was epoxied, and failed at the wing joiner on maiden in a loop. I am hesitant to use epoxy again ( I did not sand the parts for the glue and felt like it was my failure). I am hesitant now. I'm expecting you may be using an ABS welding style glue on your builds?
Although I hate two strokes even though better suited for float planes due to bushings rather than ball bearings. Question here, what glue did you use on assembly?
My recent one was epoxied, and failed at the wing joiner on maiden in a loop. I am hesitant to use epoxy again ( I did not sand the parts for the glue and felt like it was my failure). I am hesitant now. I'm expecting you may be using an ABS welding style glue on your builds?
My recent one was epoxied, and failed at the wing joiner on maiden in a loop. I am hesitant to use epoxy again ( I did not sand the parts for the glue and felt like it was my failure). I am hesitant now. I'm expecting you may be using an ABS welding style glue on your builds?
Although I hate two strokes even though better suited for float planes due to bushings rather than ball bearings. Question here, what glue did you use on assembly?
My recent one was epoxied, and failed at the wing joiner on maiden in a loop. I am hesitant to use epoxy again ( I did not sand the parts for the glue and felt like it was my failure). I am hesitant now. I'm expecting you may be using an ABS welding style glue on your builds?
My recent one was epoxied, and failed at the wing joiner on maiden in a loop. I am hesitant to use epoxy again ( I did not sand the parts for the glue and felt like it was my failure). I am hesitant now. I'm expecting you may be using an ABS welding style glue on your builds?