blue ice

My Feedback: (6)

My girlfriend just bought a new U CAN DO 3D. A few other people at our field fly it also. She has to be different, so she wants to peel off the red and blues off the wing and tail and add a different design to it. Is there any special tricks we should know about? We have not done much covering so any help would be great.

BasinBum

My Feedback: (2)

No problem. Spray window cleaner and apply the monocote, squegee the liquid out with a piece of soft balsa and let dry over nite. The next day use a Q-tip and apply Monocote solvent around the edges and it will stay permanently. Don't use any heat as it will mess up the job.

ray c.

Does the window cleaner activate the adhesive to stick the two layers of monocote? Then the solvent just seals the edges? Or did I misunderstand?

Thanks

BasinBum

My Feedback: (2)

The surface tension of the liquid holds the Mono down. It does not activate the adhesive but when it dries it does stick pretty well. Sealing the edges keeps it down permenantly and since there is no air it won't bubble.

It works really well and gives the best results. Heat causes wrinkles and bubbles because of the preshrunk bottom layer not contracting along with the new top layer. Solvent alone runs the color and does not allow time for proper placement. Try it and you'll see it is very easy. The only tricks are to make sure the surface is clean and use soft balsa sheet scraps to squegee with. Hold the balsa with the grain parralell to the surface and if there are any bumps from particles under the mono pull it up and start again.

I learned this from a friend who did a really nice checkerboard pattern that was about five years old and looked perfect. When he explained it to me the first time I had the same questions till I tried it.

FLYBOY

My Feedback: (11)

Never heard that method BB. I am definately going to have to try it. I have done it with heat forever, but you always end up with a few bubbles no matter how hard you try. I will try your method and check it out.

Thanks

ksechler

BB, thanks for a new method to try. I can confirm what you have been saying. I have applied trim with both the solvent and heating method and ended up popping bubbles, or not being able to get the trim exactly where I wanted it.

One question, though. Using you method, how do you account for curves. So far, heat's the only way I've found to get the trim piece around a corner.

FLY777

HI,
I have applied monokote on monokote without any air bubbles.
You have to use very low heat, just enough to activate the glue.
Hold up the one side of the covering and ease the heat on.
You can put more heat on later, the film does not require as much heat as when filming onto bare wood.

Glenn

TOYMAKER

My Feedback: (6)

Try adding a little ammonia with the the solution when wetting on mono to moncote. The ammonia acts as a solvent. THen just iron the edges with just enough heat to seal.

WG

the troll

I have had good luck ironing the designs by puncturing pin holes under the designs before application and careful ironing

P-51B

My Feedback: (5)

If using this method, a top-flite "woodpecker" tool works great to make the holes in the covering.

gargoyle7

Hmmm, just the topic I was going to start!

My question - can too much trim add TOO MUCH weight?

I'm building a GP Spectra sailplane, & am mimicking the color scheme on the box,shown here:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJ597&P=0

Is it best to cover the ENTIRE wing in yellow, then add the trim over on the leading edge portion of the wing? Or should I try to make it all 1 layer with little/no layering?

Thanks, any help GREATLY appreciated

Lee

hookedonrc

I do the same as the troll, making sure that there are holes in the covering under the top coating. I have heard this lets the gas that is generated by heating escape on the bottom. I have had good success doing this, but have had some air bubbles. I chalk it up to my inexperience with covering.

Combat Addict

I wouldn't worry to much about the weight, only if you sart to overlap multiple times on lots of surface area.

bralex

My Feedback: (1)

Hey BB,

Sounds like a great technique! I'm trying to attach small pieces of monokote over ultracote. The pieces are in the shape of a diamond which means 4 sharp corners to catch on when cleaning after an outing. Will the technique still work with this senaireo?

Thanks!

BasinBum

My Feedback: (2)

Bralez, It looks like you have already done it. It should work just fine. As with any type of covering you do I think the longetivity has a lot to do with what cleaner you are using. If it has a lot of alcohol the squares will come up no matter what you do.

Mike in DC

Is this possible? If the factory used Monokote trim, it should be almost impossible to remove without damaging the white Monokote underneath.

I would think the problem with your idea is not the technique, which BB covered very well, but the cost, unless you have spare Monokote hanging around. I would suggest the sticky-back trim sheets. Just cut them out, and smooth them on with your fingers to minimize bubbles. If you get friendly with the local sign shop, they will give you boxes of vinyl scraps of all different colors for free.

BasinBum

My Feedback: (2)

Mike,
Factory Monocote will come up as easily as any other, especially with the help of a solvent on a Q-tip (denatured alcohol or maybe MEK)

Speaking of sticky back trim sheets, the Windex technique works very well with that stuff as well. Float it into place and squeegee out the Windex and the next day it is permanent.