Cover with Monokote
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: North Edwards, CA
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cover with Monokote
I just purchased an ISC Extra 300. ARC 72" wing. I have always used Monokote in the past. I am toying with the idea of using a fabric covering like stits. Should I stick with the plastic coverings like Monokote?
#3
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Macho Grande, KS
Posts: 1,590
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Cover with Monokote
rx:
How about using Ultracote/Oracover instead ? This way you won't have to fight wrinkles all the time. Now they have just about the same color choices as Monokote and Ultacote has a paper backing than doesn't bend your mind in trying to peel it off.
Doesn't the full scale Extra have metal skin ?
How about using Ultracote/Oracover instead ? This way you won't have to fight wrinkles all the time. Now they have just about the same color choices as Monokote and Ultacote has a paper backing than doesn't bend your mind in trying to peel it off.
Doesn't the full scale Extra have metal skin ?
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: North Edwards, CA
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Cover with Monokote
I was thinking that the fabric would be more durable than the Monokote style covering. (Not thinking about matching the full scale plane as far as covering goes.)
Maybe I will give the ultracoat a try.
Thanks for the replys! [8D]
Maybe I will give the ultracoat a try.
Thanks for the replys! [8D]
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Moreland, GA
Posts: 809
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Cover with Monokote
I usually use Sig Koverall and dope. The finish is at least as light weight as monokote and extremely tough and durable, and it stays taut with no wrinkles. That being said, if you have always used monokote, you would probably do well to stay with it. There is a learning curve to using each kind of covering and the first attempt is not always the best job. A major factor in using a fabric and dope finish is the fumes. I have an outside shop and that isn’t a problem but if you have to build in an apartment or on the kitchen table it could be unacceptable. If you should decide to use Koverall, be sure and use aircraft dope and not a water based “house paint†or automotive enamel, or it will turn out heavy.
#6
Senior Member
RE: Cover with Monokote
You are correct in that the fabric is much stronger than the films. My experience with Solartex (also Colortex and Worldtex) is that it is much easier to apply than either Monocote or Ultracote. It is about 1 or 2 ounces heavier per square yard but that is insignificant on a 40 sized model. The fabric is much more durable and resists punctures quite well if you are flying off grass fields. It goes around compound curves better, sticks to itself better and is slightly cheaper (the size of a basic roll is quite a bit more than either Moncote or Ultracote). Fabrics have one dissadvantage, the weave picks up dirt easier than the films and is harder to clean. If you put a top coat over it (this also adds a small amount of weight) this problem is solved. For anything larger than 40 sized, fabric is far superior.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: River City, TX
Posts: 400
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Cover with Monokote
If you want to use a fabric the Century 12 farbic is already painted with a very nice finish on it . It takes paint real well and you can use Monokote as a trim, the kicker with this material is the correct heat and a sock on the iron. I have used this material when I needed a base cote that was in the colors they carry...