ChuckCLJ

My Feedback: (3)

I have a question for the collective....
What is the most used (best) method of triming sticks for frame up contruction? I struggle with getting my cuts at the proper angle and perpendicular to the surface of the stick. I really struggle when the end the stick is to glue to an existing joint that requires me to cut two angles on the end of the stick. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Chuck

JimTrainor

If I'm thinking ahead I measure the angles on the plan ahead of time.

Then I cut the stick a bit long and sand it to the exact length, trial fitting along the way, using
a Foremost mitre sander. It's easy to get an exact fit.

If I'm not thinking ahead and don't mark the angles on the plan, then I just eyeball the first cuts, making the stick a bit longer that I would if I had measured first, and adjust the angle on the mitre sander until it is exact.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXG876&P=7

kdheath

My all-time favorite way was to use a Dremel 580 table saw. Mine has died, but I am always looking for another one. Failing that, there are mitre boxes by Zona that are some help. And, as JimT said, a little miter sander from Foremost or Northeast Shortlines works great. Cut the stick a little long and trim to fit. Working at an easy pace, I framed up a Senioita for my son in a couple of evenings. Buld the two sides on top of each other with a little spot of masking tape at each glue joint so they'll come apart. Sand the edges even and peel apart with a kitchen knife or a credit card, something like that.
Kelvin

spokman

My Feedback: (2)

Miter box and a razor saw would be a good start. I'm interested in that sander to..

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

Formost also makes a mitre saw. It comes with a razor saw and has 0 thru 90 degree sticker on it.

David

CafeenMan

Let me count the ways.

(In my personal order of preference)

1st, I always put the stick over the construction and mark it with a single edge razor slightly outside where I want it to end up. That gives me a little room to get the angle sanded right. Then I cut off the excess outside the razor mark with a razor saw. Next I get it to an exact fit. On to my preferences:

1) Disk sander - makes very smooth ends and gives me excellent control over the exact angle.
2) A 1/2" square by 3" long sanding block clamped to the table on its side. I move the piece against the sanding block.
3) Razor saw

In all cases, I don't try to get it to an exact fit on the first try. I never get it right. Sand, fit, sand, fit, etc. until it's perfect. If it ends up to short, then I use it for the next smaller piece and try again.

BTW - ALWAYS cut the longest pieces first or you might end up with a bunch of short sticks and not have one long enough for a part.

Kaos Rulz

That's a good point to bring up. I hate to learn lessons like this the hard way. Not that I've ever done this. (wink-wink-wink)

Dsegal

A wise modeler once explained that there are two methods of cutting a stick to the correct length: the direct method and the indirect method.

In the direct method, you cut the stick too short.

In the indirect method, you cut the stick too long and then sand it too short! (G)

("I can't understand it. I have cut this piece of wood three times and it's still too short!")

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I do it similar to caffeenman's way.

I put the piece in place, and line up a single edged razor to the edge of "Side A". Then cut. It almost always comes out right the first time.

And ditto to cutting the long pieces first! (It doesn't come out perfect EVERY time )

beardking

My Feedback: (4)

I love the eyeballs in that one Minn, just love em.

ballgunner

My Feedback: (1)

I usually line up the piece over the plan and mark it with a very sharp pencil. Cut just outside the marks and sand to fit. I stopped using #11 blades a long time ago except for cutting a few sheet parts. Single edge blades are easier to keep straight along the cut. I also have a disc/belt sander with the table and guide set up at exactly 90 deg. both horizontally and vertically
each piece starts with a perfectly square surface on one end. If the wood is fairly large I use the disc sander to square up the angle cuts. It's and eyeball thing but pretty accurate when you know your table is exactly 90 deg. to the disc.

DGrant

My Feedback: (4)

I cut EVERYTHING oversize, including sheeting, and sand-fit to perfection. I usually use my disc sander(disc/belt combo) for the stick work though, as it makes a very sharp, clean edge/joint. It has that small table that is exact 90's, and for the angles I use what I call "L.A.R." (looks about right...I read that in a mag one time) and get it very close with that. The final exact fit though is with a block to make it lock in. Only then it gets glue. It sounds like alot of work, but with practice, it gets much faster. Those that use this method know what I'm talking about, and know what the results are. You will end up with a very tight joint, and a much stronger plane. Just practice a bit on some scrap, it won't take long to get the feel of it. Good luck.

DMyer

My Feedback: (2)

I always mark it (use your favorite way), cut slightly oversize and sand to perfect fit with a disk sander. For some good practice.... build a 1/4 scale or bigger Cub!! I can't live without my disk/belt sander... only power tool I use more than my drill press.

Dan

blvdbuzzard

Well there are a couple of tools that I use. One is the Chopper. It can be found at Micro Mark. It uses a single edged blade to cut down like a chop saw but the blade does not spin. If you go to micromark.com and look for the chopperII it is item number 82439 It sells for $39.95. The other is the THE DOBSON MITER-RITE. It is a miter box that I have found I like to use. It is easy and is small eneough that it does not take up a lot of space on the table.

Dru.

cknaack

My Feedback: (1)

Chuck, I use a miter cutter/sander combination made by Just RC planes. I think they are located in Kentucky. It gives me straight and square joints every time. The angle markings for miter cutting are lazer engraved. No need for thick CA anymore. This tool has made my life much simpler. This is just what the doctor ordered. Give it a try, you will not be disappointed!