Nothing is wrong with the Aerohawk.
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I got my new Aerohawk about a week ago and am VERY impressed. For being a newbie to heli's i really cant see a much better way to go. I havn't really crashed my heli TOO hard but it has hit some things that, if it were a real heli, it would of been destroyed and caused a lot of damage.
Now as far as all of the forums about people upgrading there Aerohawk the second they get it i think you are crazy. There is NOTHING wrong with the stock aerohawk, and i feel very confident when i say that. The most important things about these heli's, and more experienced pilots have said as well, is SETUP. If you take the time and setup your aerohawk before you start flying i am sure you will get a pretty positive experience from it. Granted it does not fly like a .30 or .60 size heli would but it just takes some getting used too.
The only thing to be sure to do is make sure the rotor head operates smoothly cause i know i had to sand a little on mine because it was rubbing so the flybar would not slant or turn smoothly. Another thing that needs to be done is the tail rotor blade needs to be balanced. Also i went around all of the blades with some 400grit sand paper and sanded off all the excess plastic that was on the edges from the molds.
Now to the people that are having problems with wobbling, i have discovered that there is quite an easy fix to this and that all you have to do is advance the blades. This is a pretty simple task that WILL work and can be found at other forums, sorry i dont have the link right now.
The only upgrade that i would buy for my Aerohawk is the Aluminum CNC Shaft collar that can be found at helihobby. This is almost a must because the rubber tube that is stock does a very poor job at keeping the shaft from being pushed down.
If you do all this i think that you will be pretty satisfied with your aerohawk. I know i sure LOVE mine, and it really does fly great.
Now as far as all of the forums about people upgrading there Aerohawk the second they get it i think you are crazy. There is NOTHING wrong with the stock aerohawk, and i feel very confident when i say that. The most important things about these heli's, and more experienced pilots have said as well, is SETUP. If you take the time and setup your aerohawk before you start flying i am sure you will get a pretty positive experience from it. Granted it does not fly like a .30 or .60 size heli would but it just takes some getting used too.
The only thing to be sure to do is make sure the rotor head operates smoothly cause i know i had to sand a little on mine because it was rubbing so the flybar would not slant or turn smoothly. Another thing that needs to be done is the tail rotor blade needs to be balanced. Also i went around all of the blades with some 400grit sand paper and sanded off all the excess plastic that was on the edges from the molds.
Now to the people that are having problems with wobbling, i have discovered that there is quite an easy fix to this and that all you have to do is advance the blades. This is a pretty simple task that WILL work and can be found at other forums, sorry i dont have the link right now.
The only upgrade that i would buy for my Aerohawk is the Aluminum CNC Shaft collar that can be found at helihobby. This is almost a must because the rubber tube that is stock does a very poor job at keeping the shaft from being pushed down.
If you do all this i think that you will be pretty satisfied with your aerohawk. I know i sure LOVE mine, and it really does fly great.
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I'm VERY satisfied with my AeroHawk apart from the tailmotor which burned out on the eight flight! I got the AeroHawk on friday and flew eight flights by sunday when the motor died. Good thing my dealer was so super and sent me two new motors really quickly. I was able to fly again today (the dealer is 2000Km away).
I also sanded the main rotor head assembly to make it tilt more freely. I also made my own shaft collar from a 4mm wheel collar and a 3mm/4mm id/od brass pipe. I balanced the tail rotor as well by adding a little transparent tape and it's now perfectly vibration free in the tail. Before the tail would skip up and down on ground run.
I made a main rotor balancing tool from a pipe and two ball bearings and yesterday I tried balancing the rotor since I had no tail motor to fly with. First I balanced the main rotor head assy with the flybar attached and blades removed. The flybar was perfectly balanced which was surprising. Then I mounted the main rotor blades and balanced the whole rotor. I added 45mm of tape to the underside of one blade to get it perfectly balanced. This weight addition is insignificant and I didn't notice a difference. Tightening the main rotor blade bolts helped make mine run wobble-free and I discovered this on my second day of flying.
BTW. This is my first helicopter and I learnt to fly it without having to replace any parts which says a lot about it's durability.
I also sanded the main rotor head assembly to make it tilt more freely. I also made my own shaft collar from a 4mm wheel collar and a 3mm/4mm id/od brass pipe. I balanced the tail rotor as well by adding a little transparent tape and it's now perfectly vibration free in the tail. Before the tail would skip up and down on ground run.
I made a main rotor balancing tool from a pipe and two ball bearings and yesterday I tried balancing the rotor since I had no tail motor to fly with. First I balanced the main rotor head assy with the flybar attached and blades removed. The flybar was perfectly balanced which was surprising. Then I mounted the main rotor blades and balanced the whole rotor. I added 45mm of tape to the underside of one blade to get it perfectly balanced. This weight addition is insignificant and I didn't notice a difference. Tightening the main rotor blade bolts helped make mine run wobble-free and I discovered this on my second day of flying.
BTW. This is my first helicopter and I learnt to fly it without having to replace any parts which says a lot about it's durability.
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i have a hummingbird, pretty much the same thing. setup is very important, but dont forget to maintain. after a big crash it is easy to just slap stuff on and go fly more, because you will really want to get back in the air, but dont forget to take the time and set it up again. double check everything. it will save you time and money in the long run.
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I agree with tahustvedt that this heli is very durable, but also with bluesilver30 that once you crash it is important to take the time and make sure everything is still working properly and not broken. In the long run doing this will save you a lot of money and frustration. I am also proud to say that i was complete newb to helis when i bought this and still have yet to break something on mine.
I say that if your looking for an electric helicopter on a budget then you will not be losing anything by buying an aerohawk.
I say that if your looking for an electric helicopter on a budget then you will not be losing anything by buying an aerohawk.
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I wish I could say the same for me. I havnt had anything but problems from my aerohawk. I'm not putting the aerohawk down because it is probably mostly my fault but I have a problem with the tail motor. I just replaced it and after quite a few attempts to fly, but not enough to burn it out, the tail motor goes to full throttle at 50% throttle but once you get passed the funky high rev zone then the rotor dosnt spin fast enough. Has anybody experienced this or am I the only one. I have looked at everything and just cant figure it out. Also my heli dosnt shake at all, it is very smooth but when I start to apply pitch in any direction the rotors and the rotor head starts to vibrate. Is this normal? I have noticed the hole in the swashplate is a little off center and it makes the swash vibrate a little but it is not to bad. Could this be what is making the head vibrate when I apply pitch or does anybody know what this coud be? [sm=confused.gif]
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i would try playing with the gyro settings. on the mixerboard there are two setting screws and the one twards the nose of the heli is the gyro which on mine was set full counter clockwise to full setting and the rear screw is the speed control for the tail rotor which will stop tail drifting from one direction or the other. that really is all the board does and those settings are what is going to determine if the heli flies right.
im not an expert but i would say play with the gyro making it least sensitive to greater and just trial and error
if that doesnt work....replace mixerboard.
im not an expert but i would say play with the gyro making it least sensitive to greater and just trial and error
if that doesnt work....replace mixerboard.
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I know what your saying about the tail motor thing. Mine does the same. It all has to do with the groud effects im pretty sure. Once you get in the air it will usually be perfectly fine for me. One reason the heli may wobble is because you might not have the blades tight enough. I didnt have them tight enough for a while and after i got about 4 feet in the air it would go into a violent wobble and fall from the sky. That is why i mentioned advancing the blades because that stopped that problem.
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have any of u got aany videos of the flights that u have had with the aerohawk
if u have got some can you please post them i would like to see how it flies.
if u have got some can you please post them i would like to see how it flies.
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tahustvedt: do you have the upgradepart for the "shaft collar from a 4mm wheel collar and a 3mm/4mm id/od brass pipe" or have you found a cheaper alternative?
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ORIGINAL: larsen2000
tahustvedt: do you have the upgradepart for the "shaft collar from a 4mm wheel collar and a 3mm/4mm id/od brass pipe" or have you found a cheaper alternative?
tahustvedt: do you have the upgradepart for the "shaft collar from a 4mm wheel collar and a 3mm/4mm id/od brass pipe" or have you found a cheaper alternative?
I have many years of electric planes under my belt so I have lots of little parts in my toolboxes. I used an old 4mm wheelcollar with a 3mm id/4mm od brass pipe inside it. the brass pipe is there to make sure only the inner part of the bearing is in contact with the collar and not the outer part as well as that might cause friction. That's the idea at least.
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To Larsen 2000
I have heard that silicone tube that holds the main shaft up is better for beginners, which is what I am, because it gives some cushion in a crash. What I did to mine is cut the silicone tube down below the swash to improve the cyclic response. After I cut the tube I then put a coat of CA around the top and then sprayed it with accelerator. I then put a few more coats on to form a lip because the tube doesn't stick to CA very well. The only problem with this is that if you want to take out the main shaft then you either have to pull the main gear pin out with a pair of needle nose pliers or cut the CA off. Its easer to pull the pin though. Although it may not look as good a the aluminum collar, it is lighter and really actually looks pretty good. The main shaft hasn't slid down one time and I have crashed it a bunch of times.
I have heard that silicone tube that holds the main shaft up is better for beginners, which is what I am, because it gives some cushion in a crash. What I did to mine is cut the silicone tube down below the swash to improve the cyclic response. After I cut the tube I then put a coat of CA around the top and then sprayed it with accelerator. I then put a few more coats on to form a lip because the tube doesn't stick to CA very well. The only problem with this is that if you want to take out the main shaft then you either have to pull the main gear pin out with a pair of needle nose pliers or cut the CA off. Its easer to pull the pin though. Although it may not look as good a the aluminum collar, it is lighter and really actually looks pretty good. The main shaft hasn't slid down one time and I have crashed it a bunch of times.
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i would try playing with the gyro settings. on the mixerboard there are two setting screws and the one twards the nose of the heli is the gyro which on mine was set full counter clockwise to full setting and the rear screw is the speed control for the tail rotor which will stop tail drifting from one direction or the other. that really is all the board does and those settings are what is going to determine if the heli flies right.
im not an expert but i would say play with the gyro making it least sensitive to greater and just trial and error
if that doesnt work....replace mixerboard.
im not an expert but i would say play with the gyro making it least sensitive to greater and just trial and error
if that doesnt work....replace mixerboard.
I know what your saying about the tail motor thing. Mine does the same. It all has to do with the groud effects im pretty sure. Once you get in the air it will usually be perfectly fine for me. One reason the heli may wobble is because you might not have the blades tight enough. I didnt have them tight enough for a while and after i got about 4 feet in the air it would go into a violent wobble and fall from the sky. That is why i mentioned advancing the blades because that stopped that problem.
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Good thing on the video idea, i shot some loong sequenses of flying today, il post later. This shows the aerohawk doing next to rock solid howers and som very nice forward to cough!! almost steady stopps
im no pro on the sticks. SO post your videos.!
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