Mikee-RCU

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A couple weeks ago I purchased a Ultra Stick 60 and The Futaba 9C radio. It didn't take long to get the plane in flying order. I installed a Saito 100 for a motor, one that I had bought for another project but decided to do at a later date. I had problems getting the radio to do crow or as Futaba says Butterfly or airbrake. Once that was figured out it was time to test fly it. Now if the weather would cooperate. I started to check out this forum(ARF or RTF). There has been two threads going, "ULTRASTICK 60 ARF issues" and "US 60 Wahoo" that I have gotten may ideas from, I feel lucky as neither wing halves had been crushed. After I got the wings together and installed the flaps and ailerons(did it after I joined the wing halves) it appeared that I had a bad warp in the left wing half. After examing everything I could, I determined that the flaps and ailerons were the source of the warpage. I was able to twist the warp opposite of the way it was warped and used a heat gun to shrink the Ultracote and hold it in shape. I readjusted the controls so the flaps and ailerons lined up across the wing. I bought some of the clear yellow Ultracote to seal the hinge lines as suggested in one of the posts. Well the weather finally cooperated yesterday. I took my Super Sports 40 up for the first flight to get my wings back. Then I watched my buddy fly his Magic. I decided the US60 had to go into the air. I ran a couple tanks of gas through the motor since it hadn't been in the air yet. Finally was able to get it to idle at about 2600 RPM. It still pulled it on the ground. I'll be glad when the motor gets broken in and will idle a bit slower. Top end was run at approx. 8500 RPM at full throttle. I'm using a 14-6 Zinger prop. It's time to put this bird in the air. Remembering one person had said to be careful not to give it full up upon take off with full throttle. I started about mid-field, started to do the take off roll slowly giving it more and more throttle, I gave it the slightest up on the elevator to keep the tail down so it wouldn't nose over. Well It took about 60 feet and less than half throttle to get it into the air. I gave it just a little more throttle and flew the first flight right there. All I had to do was give it about 3 clicks for the aileron trim to bring it back level and just a little trim up(about 2 clicks) on the elevator. I didn't do or try anything yet other than just fly in circles, do a couple loops, and rolls with it. This is a super flying airplane as everybody has said. I had to land it dead stick on the second flight up and it just floated to the ground. I couldn't believe it. I think it has moved to my number 1 plane to fly. I'm debating wether I should put a larger tank in it. If I do that I'll make a hatch on the top side to access it better. I'd like to thank everybody from the two earlier posts that have given their input and Ideas. It sure has helped me with this airplane.
Mikee

Pud

My Feedback: (3)

Hey Mikee,
It is definitely a "keeper", darn near one of the best flying R/C planes I have ever had.

Like I said in an earlier post, "WAHOO!!!"
Pud

hilleyja

My Feedback: (3)

Mikee,

Your in luck. I have the same combination and some lessons learned to pass on.

The Saito FA-100 comes from the factory woefully too rich for anything other than break in. That is why you can't get a good idle. Follow the instructions and start to lean out the low speed screw 1/8-turn each try. Adjust then transition from idle to full then adjust again. Keep doing this until your transistion goes south. Back out of your last adjustment and check again. Re-adjust the high speed with a tach periodically during this process, max rpm less 400 rpm. I ended up turning my low speed needle in over 2 turns. When your finished you will have done 2 things. Your idle will now be silky smooth below 2000 rpm and your fuel mileage will almost double.

Switch to a 14x8 prop if your flying off of grass. If your flying off of asphalt go with the 15x6. I am currently getting 9400 rpm on a Master Airscrew 14x8 prop. I've back this off to 9000 for normal running and because an engine usually leans out in the air.

This combination redefines the term "Unlimited Vertical". Point this plane straight up and put on your telescopic vision. By the time this plane stops climbing you will have no idea whether it is upside down, rightside up or inside out because it will only be a dot in the sky. Full right rudder and full up elevator and she will slowly spin back to mother earth. Be careful here because you may stall the engine with the negative G's. If you want a little more excitement add a little throttle and speed up the spin.

As you already know, if your engine deadsticks you have no concern. Throw in the CROW and float in for a perfect harrier-type landing.

Imagine the response from other people at the flying field when you launch that missile straight up, chop the throttle to idle, point the airplane straight down, activate the CROW, and let the plane free fall until it is about 20' above the ground. Pull gently back on the elevator stick and float in for a landing -- I've done it dozens of times and they still grip the arms of their chairs waiting for the crash.

Mikee-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Jim,
Thanks for the tips on the motor and the plane. I screwed the idle screw in about 1-1/2 turns already anything more seems to kill the motor. Just thought maybe it needs more runtime on the motor. I'll try screwing it in a bit more the next time I go out to fly. It does hesitate just a little bit where it's at now, but hasn't quit on me during the transition. Shoot with the 14-6 prop it'll do vertical at just above half throttle. Is the Master Airscrew prop your using wood or the plastic composite one. I bought a Master airscrew plasitic composite thinking it's a bit heavier and will act more like a flywheel in idle.
Mikee

hilleyja

My Feedback: (3)

Master Screw 14x8 is a composite. I will be changing it out for the APC 14x8 and eventually, with new landing gear, the 15x6.