thevirginian

I have a brand new G-38 that won't run. First I found a run-out of .03" on the prop hub than the woodruff key sheared off. When the motor finally started it would not transition from idle to open throttle. Only when I played with the choke and throttle simutanuously I get it to run wide open. Than the black bakelite spacer leaked. When I tried to tighten the screws it finally broke. Made myself a new one from teflon. The leak is gone and the new spacer seems to work. Running the motor wide open I pick up a couple of hundred rpm when I shield the carb from the prop wash with my hand. So, now I am in the process of making myself a velocity stack that mounts on the face of the carb and faces away from the prop wash. If that does not work, than here goes the Zenoah for good. I could have purchased a Poulan 46cc for far less and converted it to do exactly what I hoped the Zenoah was meant for. I guess that's what you call "lesson learned".

jneesy

sounds like you got a lemon .been using zenoah for a long time and love them . call horizon i'm sure they will help you with your problem .

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

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airega1

My Feedback: (204)

Don't bother with the velocity stack, once you put on the cowl there will be no draft

thevirginian

RCIGN1,
Do you have any suggestions? All my buddies at the field (all gasser- veterans) ran out of ideas what it could be.

Tmoth4

My Feedback: (1)

If your woodruff key sheared off then maybe the flywheel timing isn't right. When my G38 was new and I tried running it I noticed the flywheel magnets didn't look like they were in the right position when it approached compression and the engine wouldn't run. I decided to pull the flywheel off and there was no woodruff key in the slot! It was stuck to the magnet inside the flywheel. Somebody let it fall out when it was assembled. I put the woodruff key where it belonged, put the flywheel back on and the engine has run great ever since.

Jim

thevirginian

tmoth4,
I did replace the key and the engine fired right up. Idles nicley, but would not transition. No, no the problems are in the quality control at Zenoah manufactury, as you found out with your key.

Tmoth4

My Feedback: (1)

You probably tried it already, but if it hesitates, that usually means the low speed needle needs to be richened.

Jim

thevirginian

Tmoth4,
I tried everything in the book to no avail. After I replaced the cracked bakelite spacer, I fired her up and she seemed to work fine. She would transition from idle the wide open. Next time around, same old sh... again. Dies when I even touch the throttle. Tells me, something mechanical is wrong inside the carb. The only moving thing inside is this lever activated valve. I check this tonight. Regardless, though, I already ordered me a Fuji 50. The h.... with the Zenoah! I have it!

FL Phathom

My Feedback: (-1)

Something wrong inside the carb? maybe it was the butcher you let tear it apart and mess with the metering pin, now you order a Fuji 50, whats the matter with BME, Brison, DA? these are all tried and true engines. What's a Fuji, who's got one , have you ever seen one run? I'm not knocking the Fuji, but talk about buying blind. I will be visiting Fentress again in the next couple of weeks, I was there last week and I noticed you had some guy who didn't really know what he was doing, take apart the carb. That was your first and biggest mistake. I hope the Fuji works out for you, or you'll be in trouble double.

Felix

FL Phathom

My Feedback: (-1)

Hey Virginian, I just viewed the Fuji support forum and it seems like Fuji has got thier own problems, like not being able to get more than 6200 RPM'S WITH A 20X10 Zinger. I had a beat up old Sachs 3.1 that on it's worst days still gave me 6700R's with a 20X10 Zinger, you might want think on this a while

Felix

thevirginian

Hey FL Phathom,
I do not remember who you are, most recently, but you must remember me, messing with my engine.
No, no, we did not butcher the carb. We only tried to clean out any possible debis inside. We also did not mess with the metering pin. I was going to try that as the last resort, after nothing worked. Do you have any solutions, what it could be?

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Send it to me with $20, it WILL be fixed

thevirginian

RCIGN1,
looks like you're having fun on my account. If you spent $300 on a new engine and can't use it, that's anything but funny, believe me. Still waiting for a good tip of yours. or are you also at the end of your wisdom?

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

I'm not having "fun" at your account...My wisdom starts with running an engine..I do not have ESP and can't possibly determine what your problem is without running the engine.. I COULD have made it run,..Offer withdrawn, good luck with your Fuji...[>:]

karolh

You should have taken up RCIGN1 offer, as more than likely he would not have backed down, cause you basically had nothing more than 20 bucks plus shipping to lose if any. Pretty sure you would have gotten the engine back running like it ought to, now you have missed the boat.

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Shipping was included....

hgiles

My Feedback: (4)

I think thevirginian misuderstood RCIGN1 to be trying to buy the engine for $20 and the fixing to be done for himself (RCIGN1). Give the guy a break, he is having a tough enough time as it is.

As a beginner in the hobby I know how frustrating it can be to not have the right answer all the time.

thevirginian

hgiles,
Thanks, at least one decent person in this forum. How would you react to a posting with this at the end.
Of course I did not take it seriously. But if he was serious about it then I would certainly consider it as a great opportunity.

airega1

My Feedback: (204)

Hey Alex, you should take up on Ralph Cunningham's offer for he is the engine man of all time, he once worked on a D&B 5.1 of mine and it now runs like a Rolex. He's RCIGN1. I guess you replied to his post before you got your foot out of your mouth.

Frank

karolh

My advice, ask RCIGN1 nicely to recant and see what happens. Remember sometimes seeing and interpereting can be worlds apart, plus eating a little humble pie every now and then is good for the digestion.

thevirginian

Hey Frank,
did not realize, you're the frankflyboy1. You were right, the vel-stack was for the birds. Didn't change diddly. As I already mentioned, I replaced that darn bakelite spacer and the engine transitioned nicely after that. I thought, that was it. Wrong! Next time around, same ol' sh.... Like last night. I fire her up and she goes wide open. Next time I start her up-nothing. Drives me nuts! Took the carb off and blew out every hole of it. Also checked the metering needle-moves freely. If it is not the carb, what else could cause this obvious fuel starvation when opening the throttle. BTW, I'd like to apologize to RCIGN1 for reacting defensively, but I honestly thought he was teasing me. I'll call him at home, later on.

airega1

My Feedback: (204)

Hey Alex, it has to be the carb, because there is nothing else mechanical that would cause the symptoms you are explaining. Call Ralph Cunningham and talk to him and straighten out your misunderstanding. Ralph is a very nice guy, and I'm sure he'll find the problem, which sounds like a pretty bad vacuum leak. At this stage of the game it'll be worth the wait for the engine repair.

Frank

thevirginian

Hey Frank, ordered my a brandnew Fuji 50SB on Thursday, had it on my doorstep Friday after work.
Installation was a piece of cake. Only two new holes to drill. everything else fit from my previous set up.
Even the choke pushrod. Broke it in Saturday and maidened her today(Sunday). What a bird in the sky!
The 50 is plenty of power, even the G-38 would have been powerful enough, if it would have run. Next time you come out, you'll have a chance to test her, you'll like her. Joe flew her and he fell in love with her. I'll see ya next weekend I hope.
Alex