Ca Thin And Baking Soda
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Also never buy kicker again. Home made kicker Step 1 boil about a half cup of water. Step 2 add backing soda to boiling water unlit the water wont hold anymore and some settles to the bottom of the pan. Step 3 let set till cool. Step 4 pour into old kicker bottle. Step 5 Use like you would regular kicker. It cost you a few pennies and a few minutes.
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I would not try it for fillets it turns instantly to something as harder than concrete when in contact with CA. Baking soda does do a good job of filling gaps but I try to get a good fit without using thick CA or baking soda filler.
#5
Ca Thin And Baking Soda
OH yeah it works. I use it to build up a fillet arond area like wing hold down instead of tri stock. I also use thick and layer it up to the thickness I need/want.
A word of caution, when using thin and baking soda you need to have lots of ventalation. It does put of some really good fumes.
Dru.
A word of caution, when using thin and baking soda you need to have lots of ventalation. It does put of some really good fumes.
Dru.
#9
Fumes?
The fumes are great for clearing your sinuses. :cry: Yes there are pretty stong and do cause your health to go down hill fast. One benifit is that any finger print with in a 100 feet will show up.
Dru.
Dru.
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CA by it self is a nightmare to sand. Does the baking soda make it easier to sand?
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IF YOU WANT SOMETHING TO FILL GAPS, TRY "FASTNFINAL" IT SANDS VERY EASY, ULTACOTE STICKS TO IT AND BEST OF, ITS $3.99 AT HOME CHEAPO FOR A TUB THAT WILL BE ENOUGH FOR 100 AIRPLANES. OH YAH, NO SMELL EITHER.
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does it bond ?
Since it is a powder, how do you get the baking soda to hold in place before adding CA ?
Does this mixture bonds as good as using regular thin CA ? How is the weight comparing to other fillers or epoxy ? Can it be used to tap drilled holes, and can you drill thru it again ? Will it hold a screw when drilling thru ?
I think for the sanding you can always use your dremel (they sand almost everything)
Does this mixture bonds as good as using regular thin CA ? How is the weight comparing to other fillers or epoxy ? Can it be used to tap drilled holes, and can you drill thru it again ? Will it hold a screw when drilling thru ?
I think for the sanding you can always use your dremel (they sand almost everything)
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Stuka,
I tried the Dremel and it's not a good idea! Fumes all over again nearly as bad as the first cure and as I said in my first reply it is harder than concrete. I haven't noticed and weakness when using it as a filler but I just don't like the looks of a sloppy joint so make another part that fits without needing a gap filler.
I have not tried drilling and tapping it but think it might be a little brittle.
I tried the Dremel and it's not a good idea! Fumes all over again nearly as bad as the first cure and as I said in my first reply it is harder than concrete. I haven't noticed and weakness when using it as a filler but I just don't like the looks of a sloppy joint so make another part that fits without needing a gap filler.
I have not tried drilling and tapping it but think it might be a little brittle.
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I've drilled and tapped it before...I wouldn't do an engine mount, but if you've stripped out a screw (say a hatch cover into lite-ply), pack some baking soda in the hole and drop some thin CA on each side of the hole. Rock hard in seconds, ready to be drilled and tapped for a non-structural application.
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re: CA and baking soda...and more...
At a recent R/C club meeting, we were very well entertained with a visit by Mr. Frank Tiano, the factory rep from ZAP, and organizer of the TOP GUN invitational competition. Much valuable info was learned in that session, and I'll try to highlight some of it here. The bond strength of CA is quite high, actually much greater than epoxy. It is fine for high stress applications such as firewalls, where epoxy is typically used. The bond strength of CA is compromised by adding any filler material, such as baking soda. The suggestion is to use a filler only in cosmetic, rather than structural applications. Keep your CA stored in the refrigerator to greatly extend its useful life. CA quality varies greatly. The manufacturing process is to mix and cook the ingredients in enormous vats. The cooking process somehow stratifies the mix so that the good quality CA is beneath the surface while the top, poor quality layer, is skimmed off and marketed in the little "bullet" tubes at a very cheap price, typically seen in the home improvement stores. It's OK for repairing the broken knick-knack that just sits on the shelf, but not suitable for flying models where bond integrity is a requirement. Another one of lifes "you get what you pay for" scenarios. The bulk of sales volume is the commercial market; furniture mfr's etc. Modelers are only a very tiny percentage of the overall useage. And kicker...it's a huge compromise. Every single squirt of it further weakens the bond strength, by a very significant percentage. Don't use it unless absolutely necessary. What's your hurry? it'll kick off by itself in seconds anyway. I hope everyone finds this info to be helpful, and my thanks to ZAP for their top quality products.
PS I have no affiliation with any mfr of CA.
PS I have no affiliation with any mfr of CA.