Cappy69

Hi, not sure if this topic has been asked a million times....but here goes. I'm getting ready to put together a Wildhare 28% Edge and I am curious about the hardware choices. I was thinking about using AirWild MLP control horns for all the servos including the rudder....which is going to be a pull pull without a bellcrank. Are these any good ? I'm pretty sure the rudder horn needs to be the 3" version, but I'm not sure of the length of the other servo horns to get 3D throws. Also curious about the control surface horns. I was thinking about using the Chip Hyde horns on everything except the rudder, but from what I can tell, the lenght of these is 1". Are these long enough to get the throws I want.If not....what are suggested. Im also curious about servo choices for the ailerons, rudder, and elevator servos......and whether or not digitals are really needed or just preffered. Please guide me in my decision. One more thing. If anyone if flying this with a Brison 3.2 and a pull pull setup, what is needed for proper balance. Oh....with this engine....what are the lenghts of the standoffs needed to work with the cowl and to achieve the needed balance. Any an all suggestion are greatly appreciated.


Thanks,

Cappy

Josey Wales

My Feedback: (61)

I used SWB arms..3" for the rudder, 1 1/2 and 1 1/4 for elevators and ailerons
Main thing with servos is you want METAL gears..I went with JR8611's
SZave yourself some time and get the Wildhare hardware pack..It has EVERYTHING you need especially if this is your first gasser (it was for me) The hardware pack comes with Rocket City hardware (rcl69) fuel tank all the bolts,screws,washers etc needed tires pull pull setup..etc

Here are a few threads I pulled up for you

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_20...tm.htm#2054338
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_22...tm.htm#2294603

Cappy69

Thanks a bunch......very helpfull . Yes this is my first gasser...I have flown and acted as pitboy for some of the older club members (60-70 yrs old) who fly 30-40 % planes, so I have a fairly good idea of the ins and outs. But I still have a lot to learn


Cappy

rctom

You don't NEED digitals but you;ll be much happier that you have them. Metal gears are a must.

If you use Hitec servos they come with good arms, otherwise the SWBs or Airwild arms are great. We sell the Airwild arm for the rudder servo, Hitec's arm is not so good there.

There are control HORNS and servo ARMS, just to be accurate.

TF

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Don't buy standoffs!!! Make your own with some 3/4 x 3/4" hardwood. Maple, Oak, or whatever. You won't save enough weight with the aluminum to justify the cost. I can't remember the exact length with the Brison, but just measue the distance from the thrust face of the engine to the back plate and then measure the distance from the face of the motor box to the face of the cowl and add 3/32". The difference will be the standoff length.

I have a spare Brison 3.2 in the shop that I will measure if you don't have yours yet. The spare is an older version and is about 1/16" deeper than the current version. In case you're wondering, the only difference between the new and old Brison 3.2 is the case color and the backplate.

1-1/4" single servo arms will work for everything. A 1-1/2" double arm should be used for the rudder for pull/pull. The Air Wild arms are just peachy.

With a center mounted rudder servo you will probably have to mount the receiver battery as far back as you can. Moving the ignition battery back towards the gas tank will help, too.

Cappy69

Thanks again guys.......your replies are VERY helpful. I'm just trying to work out what I need/want before making the plunge

Silversurfer.....that would be great if you could because I don't have it in my hands yet. As far as wood standoffs go...is there any other accurate way to drill them without a drill press as I don't have access to one ???


Cappy

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

A Brison 3.2 measures 5-3/8" from the rear of the back plate to the front of the thrust face.

As far as drilling is concerned, if you use a piece of hard wood thats about 3" long, 3/4" wide and the correct depth, you can drill it with a hand drill. The holes will not have to be critical since you will be able to move it around a little. After you have the engine on the firewall you can decide if you want to remove any of the excess wood or not. So basically you will start with only two stand offs, one for each side of the engine. Drill the holes and later trim out what you don't want.

Since I usually take the path of least resistance, i.e., lazy, I just use a Forstener bit to drill a couple of large but clean holes for any wiring or fuel line to run through and don't bother trimming anything down.

Be sure that the depth of the stand offs are the same for each side of the engine. The 28% planes have right thrust built into the engine box so you don't want one side longer than the other.

You're stand offs end up costing about $1.00 instead of $20.00 plus. And you don't have to wait for them to show up in the mail!

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

One thing I forgot. Tom sells a hardware kit that uses Nelson Hobbies RCL 69 swivel linkage for the rudder, ailerons, and elevator horns. They work just fine. If you want to go a small step up, look at the Nelson Hobbies RCL 70 ball linkage for the same locations. I strongly recommend either type.

rctom

Actually our hardware kit has changed a bit. We're now supplying (by default) a set of control horns made up out of Dubro parts. They are very heavy duty, they use a 6-32 screw and a nylock nut instead of either snap together or a pin with a teeny cotter pin that falls in the grass. It includes 3" and 4" screws for the rudder also.

We will still supply the aforementioned RC-69D and Dubro #866 if requested, but I think what we have now is better.

TF

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Why is it that I'm always the last to know?