hatchs&latchs
#2
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RE: hatchs&latchs
There's lots of ways to do that. I was actually just thinking about that today... Basically, you need something to support all the junk, recessed under the skin to clear whatever pieces stick out. A thin (1/16") ply plate should work well for most things. If the model is covered(monokote, ultracote, etc) then the hinge is easy, just carry the covering over the hatch and add a small strip to the inside joint. Alternatively, you could use plastic or nylon hinges attached to the inside of the hatch. Or, even easier yet, just use a few small servo screws(one at each corner) to hold the whole thing on. I don't know of any ready-made charge/fueling compartments, but there may be some out there... I'm sure it's not a new idea.
#3
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RE: hatchs&latchs
You might consider a tip I posted earlier. Make a framework on the INSIDE of the fuselage to support the hatch. Imbed a thin metal plate into the edge(s) on the back of the hatch. Imbed some small magnets into the framework for the hatch.
Your fingernail will be able to remove the hatch for access, yet the magnets will hold the hatch firmly in place.
I have used this technique on several models and have never lost a hatch during a flight.
Your fingernail will be able to remove the hatch for access, yet the magnets will hold the hatch firmly in place.
I have used this technique on several models and have never lost a hatch during a flight.
#4
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RE: hatchs&latchs
One way is to make a functional hatch where the rider scale has one.
In my 33% Extra 230, I made such a hatch on the foredeck where the 1:1 has a service access. Being a scale effort, I used piano hinge material and screws like the prototype.
Only have the one old black and white photo, so what you cannot see is that under the hatch is a pivoting bracket which holds three barrel-type 2.5 mm. barrel type power receptacles to charge the three on-board batteries, and in the bottom of the compartment are two [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD745&P=7]of these [/link]for filling/emptying the fuel and smoke oil tanks. The power connectors are the same as are used for the charge connectors on most transmitters.
In my 33% Extra 230, I made such a hatch on the foredeck where the 1:1 has a service access. Being a scale effort, I used piano hinge material and screws like the prototype.
Only have the one old black and white photo, so what you cannot see is that under the hatch is a pivoting bracket which holds three barrel-type 2.5 mm. barrel type power receptacles to charge the three on-board batteries, and in the bottom of the compartment are two [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD745&P=7]of these [/link]for filling/emptying the fuel and smoke oil tanks. The power connectors are the same as are used for the charge connectors on most transmitters.
#5
RE: hatchs&latchs
If it is a flat cover I lay balsa sheeting on two rails like 3\16 square hardwood. Let the two squares extend past one end cut the other end flush. Use the extended end to hook under the main body structure. On the other end I use a flat landing gear strap across the hatch and main structure.
A. J. Clark
A. J. Clark