smchale

My Feedback: (67)

I'd like to build a Balsa USA North Star this winter. Primary use will be for float flying, but will also make it so I can fly off land if I feel the urge. I'd like to see pics of this aircraft finished as well as being built, as well as any tips you folks may have!! I'm thinking of using a stock ST G-51 for power. Look forward to hearing your thoughts! Thank you kindly. [8D]

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

It's not a fast building kit like some of the newer ones on the market today, but it's far better than many "Builders Kits" that are out there.

As far as flying from land, if you have a grass runway, skip adding the wheels. With a good .46BB engine it will slide along the grass on it's belly and take off. This is not only fun, but it looks cool too. (And the G-51 will have plenty of power to do this with)

mscic-RCU

My Feedback: (6)

Build this as light as possible, especially rear of the CG. Consider mounting a mini-servo behind the fuel tank for throttle control, as the long throttle control cable does not work well. Mine is a great flier with a GMS .47, a club member has one with a ST 51. His is a great flier also, but because of the engine weight he had to add almost 16oz of nose weight to balance the plane. Mine balances with 11 oz of weight. Mine is built stock and is a little more difficult to build like Minnflyer says, but what a performer!

smchale

My Feedback: (67)

Thanks for the input guys! We do have a very nice grass strip where I fly and am intrigued that it would take off without the aid of wheels. I imagine one has to be cautious about a smooth landing as such. I was reading Laddie's article about the Arrow in July 04 RCM, and was surprised to read that you balance the model with the tank empty. Wouldn't this make for a tail heavy aircraft until you ran the tank down??

ryanpilot

My Feedback: (4)

Hey there. Email me and I can give you alot of tips. Everyone in our club built one and I have done three. I will include here some pics for you. I love my star and plan on building another one this winter, wing is already framed, and putting a ducted fan on it.

A few quick things I can tell you, and will help others, is some of the same already posted here.

Watch your weight. It is critical to build very strong but as light as possible. My last one turned out at 5.5lbs. If your going to put wheels on it then that rules out moving the servo tray as far forward as servo height will allow. Every bit of weight added to the tail will need 4x more in the nose to balance.

I didn't mess with gear on mine, I had a Seamaster that I used for that. I wanted a clean (and no potential for leaks0 northstar. Also if you dont add gear then there are some areas you can save weight.

I powered mine with several engines and all the prop engine testing (including a ST .51 bot glow and diesel) I found that this bird with a Tower .46 and a 10x8 master airtscrew proved to give the best power and speed combination. As fast as most people care to fly. It iis a rocket. To get the absoulte paower to weight combitnation is to pay big bucks and get a Jett .46 engine. This are made for pylon racers and reall crank out the power.

The most important thing in the whole deal is to balance it exactly as the designer has spesified on the plans. Keep all the bottom edges sharp 90* angle (tip floats and side rails). I have never had a problem with throttle cable from the fron of the plane. I also modified mine to use dual aileron servos.

Have fun and happy flying: Dave

Mark C

My Feedback: (26)

Is your Northstar fiberglassed or monocote covered.

wb7egg

My Feedback: (2)

What do you folks feel is the best covering for the North Star. I'm just about to that point and was going to use 21st Century Fabric but don't think that will work well do to creep etc that some folks have experienced. I'm leaning toward solartex with a couple coats
of primer and a light paint job or just some clear overcoat. All suggestions welcome.

Dennis

staggerwing

My Feedback: (5)

One piece of advice, be very careful when building the fuselage. It is very easy to not get it square. I have an OS .50SX on mine and it flies great, more than enough power. Getting up off of grass is easy, snow is a hoot.

Mine is covered with dacron dress lining put on with polyurathane--very strong. It's painted with latex house paint and clear coated with polycrylic.

Rich

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Dennis, I used white 21st Century fabric on my Northstar and it wirked well. The trick to avoiding "Creep" is this:

Let's say you want to paint a red stripe on white covering: Mask it off, and paint a coat of white first. Now, if there's any creep, it will be white-on-white, so you won't see it. The white paint will also seal any gaps where the creep happened, so now you can spray the red and it won't creep through.

Lake Flyer

My Feedback: (13)

Sean, Does this mean you might pay us a visit at Shuswap this year?? I still think a North Star is the equivalent of a lawn dart[:'(]

smchale

My Feedback: (67)

I'd love to....except I'm still living out in PA...I was just back home over the holidays and it was great! If I do happen to make it back this summer at some point i will certainly try and visit a local meet! [8D]

dragonov3

My Feedback: (3)

Hey Fellas
Here are a few pictures of my North Star. It has a TT.46. Covered in Monokote and Glassed on bottom and floats. Flys very well.

wb7egg

My Feedback: (2)

What are the correct application temps. for Solartex? I purchased some from a friend but he didn't have the
instruction sheet.

Thanks in advance.

Dennis

wb7egg

My Feedback: (2)

Does the lower fin and nacelle have to be fiberglassed as per instructions? Protection from prop spay? Seems needless and excess weight to me. Woulden't a layer of painted solartex work as well?

Thanks,
Dennis