sarakj48

I heard that you can join two colors of monocote by overlaping them about a 1/4 " and heating them on a piece of glass. I tried it and it wont bond enough to cover over open structure. I tried more heat but it still wont stick. what am I doing wrong?

Deadstik

My Feedback: (8)

Hi,

Joining pieces of Monokote together for use over open structure requires one thing. Structure underneath it. To join the pieces of Monokote, you first clean the side to be joined w/alcohol. Next, you put the two pieces together in a straight line over a 1/2" piece of hard square balsa. You can use 1/4" if you are really good, but 1/2" is easy to work with. After you have already joined the pieces of Monokote... then... wherever that joint line is on your wing, you need to place a 1/16" piece of balsa sheet approximately 1/4" wide underneath it. This would make it look like a capstrip. If you are doing a sunburst pattern, with 3 colors, then you would have 4 capstrips at the join lines where the pieces meet. When you apply your precolored sunburst, you MUST put down the joined Monokote first and it must be put down first with low heat and then gradually increase it to high. You must make certain that wherever you have a bond line, it is securely attached to your capstrip underneath. Apply heat only to your joint line and the capstrip. You do NOT want to shrink the Monokote around the joint line. After your sunburst is ironed down, then you do the trailing/leading edges in the normal manner making the covering as tight as you can BEFORE hitting the open wing with a heat gun. One other thing. Cover the opposite side BEFORE you shrink any open area w/a heat gun. This will enable the heated air to shrink the wrinkles as well as the plastic to shrink. On a fully sheeted wing, what you are doing is simple.. but on open framework, it requires this technique. One other thing... when you are making the "capstrips" for your joint lines, make certain to sand a notch into the ribs where they cross. You do not want these pieces to be obvious to anyone looking at the covering job. If you have any further questions, please ask/email...

Dan

aka deadstik.....

Carolina Custom Aircraft

Tony Hallo

This is how I do it.
Cut your pieces to size, the lighter color is always cut 1/4" larger.
Remove the backing from the darker color covering, leave the backing on the lighter color.
Tape the two pieces together, darker color on top, with small pieces of masking tape to maintain alignment. Tape every 6" or so.
Place a piece of 1/2" square balsa on your work surface and place the joint on top of the balsa. The goal here is to keep the heat away from the covering except where joining.
Starting with low heat, tack the top piece to the bottom. Skip back and forth, eventually removing the masking tape.
After the complete joint is tacked together, increase heat and firmly iron the two pices together while still on top of the balsa stick.
Clean the back of cover with a tack cloth before removing the backing from the lighter colored sheet.
I usually layout the pattern of the airframe with a fine point Sharpie pen, you can normally see through the ligher colored Monokote to locate the covering on the airframe.
Be careful with the heat gun when shrinking over open bays, I find that the iron is easier to control the heat.

sarakj48

Thanks fellows, I'll try both your methods. But it sounds a little complicated, how about if I cover with one color and then lay the other on top. I'v read on the forum about "the windex method" but I'm not sure how it works. would this be simpler? would it work as well? I'v done a bit of monocoteing but I never got too fancy.
Thanks again

SoonerAce

My Feedback: (1)

I believe the Windex method is only good for sticky back coating. But it is good for a no bubble installation.

rockhouse

My Feedback: (5)

Not true. I use windex (soapy water) with regular monokote.

Lightfoot

My Feedback: (1)

There is an article on my web page about joining plastic covering. I used this method twice with no problems. Actually, I used it on the first covering job I did with plastic. When I covered, the stabilizer, I overheated with the heatgun and it pulled apart but I avoided doing that again and completed the rest of the plane without incident. I did not use monocoat but used Sig Supercoat but I assume that all of them would work basically the same.

Mike in DC

That's what I normally do. It works better if you use darker pieces on top of lighter, although Monokote white is pretty opaque. First I cover with the light color, and shrink normally. Clean the surface really well, because little bits of dust will show through (if you care).

Then cut out the smaller pieces. Spray the surface lightly with Windex. Lay the pieces where you want them, and, using an old credit card (or similar), squeegee out all the Windex. Some people like to cover the credit card with a paper towel to prevent scratches, but I'm not that fanatic. Make sure you wipe the pieces until no water comes out the edges.

Let dry over night at least. Now you have two choices. You can go over the edges lightly with a not-too-hot iron, or you can take a Q tip, dip it in Monokote solvent, and run it around the edges. I like the solvent method, but some Monokote colors bleed pretty badly, which is a huge pain. If you use solvent, make sure you have good ventilation in your work area, or you'll be flying (you, not the plane) after 1/2 hour (or have a huge headache).

There are people who swear the Windex activates the Monokote glue and you don't have to iron down the pieces or use solvent. That's not been my experience, and I've run quite a few tests.

For smaller pieces, I use a two-step method and trim solvent, to avoid the Windex step. I hold down (or tape with masking tape) half the piece. I lift up the free half, and apply trim solvent to the base covering. Then, starting at the mid-point, I smoothly press the trim piece down, wiping sideways to avoid bubbles. Now 1/2 is attached (you only get one chance with trim solvent!). Now I pick up the other half, and do the same thing.

By the way, the same process works for the adhesive type trim sheets, and for small designs, they might be a little more convenient. In that case, once the Windex completely dries, the adhesive takes over and you're done. In my experience, the self-adhesive stuff is a bit less reliable. In other words, after a season of flying, you're much more likely to have a corner lift up with the self-adhesive stuff.

johnboyrc

If you look at the manual for a great planes Old Timer 40, they give instructions on how to join monokote. If I remember right, it is put together over glass and then transferred to the model after the seams are sealed. I don't know how well this method works, but it may be worth a try.

dmanson

My Feedback: (1)

I am currently building a Sig Hog Bipe and have joined multi-color ultracote panels for both the fuse and the wings. I have used the technique of joining with over glass using my sealing iron.

At first I did the work directly on the glass, but found that a hotter-than-normal iron was required; I guess that the glass sucked too much heat out of the iron at normal temperature. With the higher temperature the joints were solid. I have since done the joins on the glass, but have placed the seem over a 1/4" x 1/2" balsa stick (to provide some insulation from glass) and find that this works better. I also cleaned the non-glue side of the film with alcohol before sealing.

I've not flown the plane yet, so I cannot attest for certain to the airworthiness of the joints. By inspection, however, they appear completely sealed and strong and I have confidence that they will survive flight.

With patience and careful execution I found this technique works well.

MadScientist

I use the windex method. no heat, it takes awhile to dry but NO bubbles, and very strong. just be careful when you hit it with the heat gun

woodbutcher

Joining on glass works great. I spray a little water on the glass, pull the backing a squeegee the piece down. Spray a little more water and squeegee the second piece down. Use a soft cotton cloth to smooth out and dry the surface. Use the round side edge of your sealing iron and crank up the heat. Practice with some scraps and you'll find the right temp.

As a little insurance I run a little trim solvent down the edge with a small artist brush. Using a soft cloth or cotton ball wipe the excess toward the edge. Looks great and I've not had any seams come apart. I also use the heat gun liberally to heat and stretch the covering. Just be a little cautious right at the seam.

For smaller trim pieces I windex and squeegee and let dry. Next day I hit the edges with trim solvent. Good luck.

Bax

My Feedback: (11)

To protect the seam, just roll up a paper towel into a rope and get it wet. Lay it on the seam and you won't have it come apart when you apply and shrink the rest of the material.

texscowboy

My Feedback: (11)

Hey! Guy's I have found something that sticks the monocote to monocote perfectly. No bubbles. As you know the trim solvent works but if you let it touch or don't have it arranged perfect you are doomed. I was experimenting and found some stuff under my kitchen sink that works perfect. Used a foam brush to apply, get it saturated with it ,and brush on very wet, lay piece down and squeegee out. Does not stick immediately like the solvent but once you squeegee it is there. Go over it several times with the credit card or squeegee. Let dry overnight and it is stuck. NO BUBBLES. If you were to try and pull it off you would tear the mono underneath it. That is how good it sticks. Bought it along time ago don't remember when or where, maybe K-mart. Looked online and found it ,so it is still out there somewhere. It is a stain remover Made by JOMAPS INC. The name of it is (M-1 Remover).