protecting engine head
#2
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RE: protecting engine head
Everyone seems to do the standard method of using plastic wire ties. But I use 2" galvenized steel washers and then wire tie them to the engine head.
They are steel so they add a few ounces overall... seem to do the job well.
They are steel so they add a few ounces overall... seem to do the job well.
#3
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RE: protecting engine head
Everyone seems to do the standard method of using plastic wire ties
I do the same.... used the the biggest ones that fits through the holes.
#6
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RE: protecting engine head
I made a new roll bar approx 1.5 inch taller than standard (to fit under my new body shell better) and even without the shell I'm yet you even scratch the head on my new collari even after a bad landing
#8
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RE: protecting engine head
As I have a standard pick up track body that comes with Savage 21, the engine is exposed to the damage due to the roll bar not being high enough. So I created a frame from threaded rods that goes from the back of the cabin to the back of the trunk.
Where the rods attach to the top of the cabin I used large washers so that they would overlap roll bar and thus transfer impact to it.
To make it look nicer I wrapped rods in black insulation tape.
This design proved to be quite durable and helps to keep my engine head intact.
If anyone is interested I can post a photograph of my Savage with this set up and a more detailed explanation.
Diagram is attached
Where the rods attach to the top of the cabin I used large washers so that they would overlap roll bar and thus transfer impact to it.
To make it look nicer I wrapped rods in black insulation tape.
This design proved to be quite durable and helps to keep my engine head intact.
If anyone is interested I can post a photograph of my Savage with this set up and a more detailed explanation.
Diagram is attached
#9
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RE: protecting engine head
If you are trying to protect the PAINT or FINISH of your cooling head then zip ties are a great idea.
If you are trying to actually protect the ENGINE itself here is a tested and proved cage design that I have built.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y28...ollcage004.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y28...ollcage003.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y28...ollcage001.jpg
it's made from UHMW and Delrin rod for the cross braces. The back is mounted to the bulkhead and the front is mounted to the tranny, radio box and to an additional delrin rod that is betweem the TVP's. This cage had been put thru hell and keeps coming back for more. Remember plastic will FLEX under hard impact and metal will bend and break.
P.S. This may be overkill for some of you but I beat the living daylight out of my Savage. Back and front flips from 15-20 ft up, landing on flatground. This cage takes the missed landings and under rotated flips... NO PROBLEM.
Sean.
If you are trying to actually protect the ENGINE itself here is a tested and proved cage design that I have built.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y28...ollcage004.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y28...ollcage003.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y28...ollcage001.jpg
it's made from UHMW and Delrin rod for the cross braces. The back is mounted to the bulkhead and the front is mounted to the tranny, radio box and to an additional delrin rod that is betweem the TVP's. This cage had been put thru hell and keeps coming back for more. Remember plastic will FLEX under hard impact and metal will bend and break.
P.S. This may be overkill for some of you but I beat the living daylight out of my Savage. Back and front flips from 15-20 ft up, landing on flatground. This cage takes the missed landings and under rotated flips... NO PROBLEM.
Sean.
#10
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RE: protecting engine head
^^^^^^ That looks pretty good. Where would a person get some of that material. I am assuming that you have to buy a pretty decent sized sheet and obviously not much is needed to do the job.
#12
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RE: protecting engine head
ORIGINAL: YRN2BRN NITRO
If you are trying to protect the PAINT or FINISH of your cooling head then zip ties are a great idea.
If you are trying to actually protect the ENGINE itself here is a tested and proved cage design that I have built.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y28...ollcage004.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y28...ollcage003.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y28...ollcage001.jpg
it's made from UHMW and Delrin rod for the cross braces. The back is mounted to the bulkhead and the front is mounted to the tranny, radio box and to an additional delrin rod that is betweem the TVP's. This cage had been put thru hell and keeps coming back for more. Remember plastic will FLEX under hard impact and metal will bend and break.
P.S. This may be overkill for some of you but I beat the living daylight out of my Savage. Back and front flips from 15-20 ft up, landing on flatground. This cage takes the missed landings and under rotated flips... NO PROBLEM.
Sean.
If you are trying to protect the PAINT or FINISH of your cooling head then zip ties are a great idea.
If you are trying to actually protect the ENGINE itself here is a tested and proved cage design that I have built.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y28...ollcage004.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y28...ollcage003.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y28...ollcage001.jpg
it's made from UHMW and Delrin rod for the cross braces. The back is mounted to the bulkhead and the front is mounted to the tranny, radio box and to an additional delrin rod that is betweem the TVP's. This cage had been put thru hell and keeps coming back for more. Remember plastic will FLEX under hard impact and metal will bend and break.
P.S. This may be overkill for some of you but I beat the living daylight out of my Savage. Back and front flips from 15-20 ft up, landing on flatground. This cage takes the missed landings and under rotated flips... NO PROBLEM.
Sean.