fiann1

Hello All,
Does anybody out there have pictures of a super g with a (Zenoah 230RC) dry pipe and water pump set up? As a beginner, I'm having a problem with where the lines should go. In particular, the pulse line. I'm figuring that a picture of all of this would be extremely helpful.
Last question, is it MANDATORY that the header be a "left out" to clear the drive hardware and engine? Unfortunately I got a 'center out' and have to send it back.....another week...

Thanks a lot for the help.
[email protected]

Davcruz

My Feedback: (1)

For the pump, blow into the nipples until you find the one that air does not come out of, that one is the pulse port. No you don't need to send it back, you can use the center out pipe, just be sure to exhaust it to the atmosphere and not back into the boat.

fiann1

Hi,
Thanks for the post!
Let me be more specific....
The instructions from WHH for the pump are self explanitory and I get 99% of them. The only confusion i have is this:

There are three nipples on the pump -

1. "water from pickup" - I understand that one
2. "water out to cooling ring" - I understand that one
3. "pulse from crancase" - QUESTION----where does THAT lead go to on Zenoah rc230

thanks for your help
fred

Davcruz

My Feedback: (1)

OIC, the pulse port is going to run to either a nipple that you will have to install on the engine crank case, or you can drill the phenolic carb spacer block and install the nipple. The pipe kit should have a little 10-32 brass NPT nipple with it, that is what you install. The pump utilizes pressure pulses from the crank case to actuate it.

I wish I could be more specific for you on the carb spacer, but I have never drilled one from a 230, sorry. What I can tell you is you will need to drill and tap it where the nipple will go into the internal channel that supplies the preassure to the carb from the crank case...does that make sense?

I usually drill and tap the crank case itself, but you will need to pull the engine down for that.

fiann1

Hey,
As a matter of fact, I did that very thing last night. My only issue now is the confusing directions to plumb the thing with the water pump. A few things contradict each other....I'm reading it again, making sketches and at the end of all of it, there's one nipple not occupied by a tube. I don't get it! lol

thanks,
fred

Davcruz

My Feedback: (1)

Fred, there should only be 3 ports on the pump, pressure IN, water IN and water OUT. Do you have more than that?

fiann1

Hi,
They call these ports as follows:

Water From Pickup (on the transom)
Pulse From Crankcase
Water out to cooling ring

The directions tell me to connect a hose to the left port on the exahust manifold to the 'left' port on the pipe intake. Then connect a hose onto the right port of the exhaust manifold to the right fitting of the pipe intake.

At the same time the water pump directions tell me to hook a hose from the water intake to the water intake nipple on the pump. Then connect a hose on the pump to the (newly drilled nipple port on the crankcase insulater) crankcase, then one to the cooling ring. Now, what's the cooling ring....it's never been defined that way before. None of this make sense. The pump directions contradict the pipe instsall directions....at least to me.

I am confused here.

thanks,
fred
.

Davcruz

My Feedback: (1)

It will be okay, we will figure it out.

Questions:

1) Is your 230RC water cooled or air cooled?

2) Does your pipe have a water cooled flange that attaches to the cylinder and then the header attaches to that?

3) Is your pipe a wet pipe (does water get injected into the header and exhaust out the back)?

Davcruz

My Feedback: (1)

Is this the one you have?

fiann1

that's it

Davcruz

My Feedback: (1)

You will want to route the water line OUT of the pump to the cooling ring on your engine, the lower of the two nipples, then from the other nipple on the cooling ring, run to one side of the pipe, then from the other side of the pipe out of the boat. You should use a through the hull nipple for the exit from the boat.

This is of course if you have a water cooled engine, if you don't have a water cooled engine you should not use that pipe, according to WHH it can crack the cylinder since it will cool very rapidly at that localized area.

fiann1

is the cooling ring on the pipe or is it the nipples on the manifold bolted to the engine?

Davcruz

My Feedback: (1)

The cooling ring is on the cylinder of the engine.

Davcruz

My Feedback: (1)

This engine is a 230RC which is aircooled, no cooling ring.



This engine is a 260 which is water cooled, the black thing is the cooling ring, or cap.




So here it is again:

1) Into the pump from the pick-up
2) Into the cooling cap from the pump
3) Out of the cap and into the header cooling collar
4) Out of the pipe collar and into the pipe/header junction cooling collar
5) Out of the pipe/header cooling collar and out of the boat

fiann1

Hi,
I have the 230 RC....

so, let me know if I have it right.......considering I have the 230RC

IN from the water inlet
OUT to the crankcase (pulse)
OUT (water) of the pump and INTO the left nipple of the exhaust manifold
OUT of the right nipple of the exhaust manifold and into the top nipple of the pipe (see picture of pipe you uploaded)
OUT of the bottom nipple of the pipe right out the boat.

does that sound right?

thanks

Davcruz

My Feedback: (1)

Yes, that is correct, but please understand it is not recommended to run that pipe on that motor since it is air cooled.[8D]

fiann1

Hi,
Why can't I use the dry pipe? I was under the impression that I could (with the 230rc) as long as I used the water pump.......I think I confused the air cooled/water cooled issue awhile back. (I looked back on my posts) What I meant was that (as I was am to NOW understand) I needed a water pump if I wanted to use the dry pipe BECAUSE I had a clutch. I simply confused the "water cooled" engine issue with the necessity of the "water pump."

I apologize for my "newbieness."

Thanks for all your patience and help. MUCH appreciated.

Happy Thanksgiving..

Fred

Davcruz

My Feedback: (1)

My previous post.

fiann1

So I should forget about a pipe comepletely....unless of course I go to another engine or modify this one.........
that sucks.

thanks again

Davcruz

My Feedback: (1)

Well, it is your call on using it. I am sure it has been done, but not by me so I have no real life experience to go by, just what I was told by WHH in the past.

If you want to go ahead and water cool your 230RC, I think a Sikk 27cc kit will be a fairly simple upgrade and they come water cooled or you can pull your cylinder have it turned down by a machine shop and install a cooled cap from a 260. Probably 6 of one and 1/2 dozen of the other though when it comes to cost.