mike gruenwald

my cline regulator set up

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

Very interesting install. You even plumbed your diaphragm opening to the inside of your fuse. Did you have problems with it being open? I know some gassers have problems unless they are plumbed to the inside of the fuse.

desmobob

I run my O.S. 1.60FX horizontally mounted in a 25% Giles with large tubing, a large clunk and the stock muffler. I am very happy with the engine and its performance.

Good flying,
desmobob

deckerv

My Feedback: (21)

I don't use a pump on my os160 or my moki 1.8. I don't know if it made a difference or not, but I do run a 1oz header tank like I do on my helicopters.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I'll have to back up what Dave says, I finished breaking in my 4500 a couple of days ago and used the same medium fuel line I use for everything else, I could make it shake rattle and roll richening it until it almost quit. I ran two different carbs on it, the stock one and a SuperTigre .90 sized carb setting it up to convert to Diesel.

baronbrian

My Feedback: (13)

I have run the O.S. 1.60 FX with a BCM pitts as well as a moki 1.35 with a BCM pitts. I have always used medium tubing, a close fuel tank, and 15% in the O.S. and 5%in the Moki. I have not had any problems with Muffler pressure alone, and be aware that Pressure=Force/Area. Fuel pressure goes down with larger tubing. Also, I think too many people try to tune a engine with the high speed alone, and dont have enough practice with the low end to make an engine run correctly. The Moki is a special case-If the low end isnt right, the engine performs poorly all around.
-And yes, I do fly Pattern and Imac, as well as scale.

mike gruenwald

I had a problem with mixture consistency during positive g maneuvers with the engine going rich, (for whatever reason pressure was building up inside the cowling so by venting the regulator to the ambient pressure inside the fuselage that problem disappeared.

Not24

My Feedback: (1)

I believe I have solved my leaning issues, and it doesn't appear that it was fuel feed related at all. I changed over to large tubing and made no other changes. The engine ran the same on the ground, with the needle set the same. What I have learned is that the low speed needle should really be called a mid range needle. I was setting the needles per the super tigre process, being concerned primarily with idle and transition. That simply doesn't work. I learned that if I run the engine at 1/4 throttle and adjust the low needle with the engine running, I get much better results. Additionally, I had originally only checked for lean vertically with the throttle at full. If you hold the nose vertical with 1/4 throttle, you can hear it going lean,( exactly as it did in flight), and adjust the low speed needle till this goes away. I have found that the transition is still good, and the throttle response is very linear. Unfortunately, I have yet to fly the model since adjusting the engine this way. I'm hoping to try it out tomorrow.

AnthonyH

My Feedback: (16)

Anyone have a high speed needle for an old Italian made 2300? I broke mine and it is not the one shown on Tower. It is just wire with a bend on one end and point with threads on the other.

Spun

My Feedback: (3)

I have run both St and Moki with and with out pumps, as long as the fuel tank is close and on line you will do fine. Use a good low volume muffler, so you get good pressure and go for it. In my H9 260 the tank is 3 in. below and about 8 in back and I have to use a pump. Good luck.

main_gears_bent

My Feedback: (1)

I don't run anything as fancy or large as a moki 1.8, but I am having fuel draw problems in the midrange. I have a Magnum 120 four stroke in a 60" E.A.A. Bipe (bought it from a guy that needed money, already had the magnum in it). First of all, the plane is almost four pounds over weight according to the manufacturer (Weighs app. 11.11 lbs, they say it should weigh 8-8.5 lbs), second - - the problem. The plane had a 13x8 three blade prop, I replaced it with a Master Airscrew 16x8 (it seemed to be a good place to start), it also has a Perry Connnley VP-20 pump installed, along with a fueling jack. All in all I would estimate that the 16 oz. tank is approximately 4 inches behind the carb. and has to draw fuel through the jack and the pump. Top end seems to be fine, I can't seem to adjust the idle out and midrange is VERY rough. Im using Cool Power 10% fuel with a type "F" plug. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Wes

AnthonyH

My Feedback: (16)

I had a similar issue with both my TT and OS 91 four strokes. I replaced the fuel and the problem was solved. I run Wildcat Pro-Mix which is 20% nitro and 18% oil. It really makes them sing. You might get some new fuel and go up to 15% nitro at least. Also, have you tried leaning the low end?

ampa

I am satisfied with my moki 1.8/bisson pitts with 18/8 no pump and the fuel tank is just behind the firewall; it idles veeery well and pulls hard no change of mixture from full to empty tank.

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

Two OS 160 FX engines. They run with medium fuel tubing, no problem. I have seen people have problems running large fuel line that won't stay on the fittings.

Not24

My Feedback: (1)

Sounds like you either need to lean the low end needle or install a bypass line. Me thinks the latter is the answer. Tee off the feed line going to the needle and take the open end and run it back to the tank. You'll need to add a third line in the tank to do this, as the tank needs to be vented to atmosphere. Your needle settings will change considerably with the bypass installed, but you will have constant pressure without too much pressure for the carb to deal with.

j.duncker

My Feedback: (2)

My MDS 148 is running a bog standard two line fuel tank set up in a Fun Fly. The model/engine combination is several years old and spends quite a lot of it's time just hanging about.

Works fine for me.

main_gears_bent

My Feedback: (1)

So I should continue to use the pump, tee the feed line from the carb back to the tank, and add a third line for a vent? The way it is set up it runs both the pump and the exhaust pressure. I went to the field yesterday and removed the pump, replaced it with a fuel filter, and could not even make it idle for more than maybe 5 to 7 seconds. I tried leaning and richening the low end, (it does smoke ALOT on the idle) small ajustments seemed to have no effect, and more adjustments would kill the engine immediately. I usually dont have tunning problems, but this one has me stumped.

Thanks,
Wes

mikeboyd

I had similar problem with F Plug. Switched to a Fox plug with idle bar and all mid range problems stopped. Hope this helps.

Not24

My Feedback: (1)

\\

Let me try to explain what I am talking about very clearly, in lieu of trying to draw it for you.

There need to be three lines in the tank, one overflow and two clunk lines.

the overflow line is exactly that, it connects to nothing, goes out the bottom of the plane somewhere

one line is a feed line which connects to the inlet side of the pump.

the other line is the return line from the engine, back to the tank.

your feed line goes from the tank, in the pump, out of the pump, to a T fitting. From the T fitting, one line goes to the engine needle valve, the other goes back to the tank and connects to the other line with the clunk. Now the only problem is how to fill and empty the tank. The easiest way is to add one more T in the RETURN line between the existing T and the tank. A one way valve in this line between the two T's will keep the fuel from flooding the engine during filling.

Notice that nothing connects to the muffler.