Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

I've been using Sullivan graphite pushrods for my throttle and choke. 4-40 usually.

On my current project, I'm thinking about a 2-56 graphite on the throttle. It's a G-62 with a B&B bellcrank setup on the throttle & choke. The throttle is easy to push back and forth, so I was thinking about the 2-56 to save some weight. Every little bit helps.

Probably need a 4-40 for the choke, because I left the ball and spring in the carb--so it's a bit stiffer to actuate the bellcrank.

What are you guys using?

calnev4bob

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calnev4bob

----I WOULDN'T USE GRAPHITE RODS FROM THE ENGINE AREA GOING ANYWHERE NEAR THE RADIO RECEIVER AREA- Graphite is a conducter used in automobile ignitions (going to the spark plugs and it is a conductor)

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

OKAY

What WOULD you use?

Can't see a graphite rod conducting any electrical energy with plastic on both ends. I use plastic ball links on both ends of my throttle to reduce slop in the system. So, it's a plastic ball link at the carb, and a plastic ball link on the plastic horn at the servo. How can it conduct electricity?

Anybody else?

I just need to kow if you guys are using the Sullivan graphite rods or not. I'm trying to build nicer models these days. I have the time and the money. I want my stuff to be safe, (#1) functional, and clean.

Is there something else I should be using?

mglavin

My Feedback: (31)

The Sullivan stuff you're describing is similar to Nyrod right? If this is the case this stuff is a mixture of plastics and is not straight up graphite, which is a conductor. I have used the Sullivan stuff for years never had a problem to date. This stuff was specifically designed to minimize ambient temperature influences on the pushrod which often causes the pushrod to grow in length when warm.

rcblimppro

I have used CF tube with the 4-40 ends on the last 4 airplanes I built with no issues. In fact I have put the servos on the bottom of the motor box. Not long ago I would say don't do it however thats when ingnition systems were just starting to come into play and didn't do too good on noise reduction. Use the CF rod and do your normal range check, you should do fine.



Shawn

DeadAccount237939

echo what mike and shawn have said... i have used them, also knew a guy that used them in lieu of rudder cables on a 37% 300L...

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Rcpilet,

As you know, Ive been using c/f rods for the throttle for years without any issues. You noted the key to preventing RF by using non metallic clevisis or plastic housed ball links on each end.

I also fly a type of aircraft for a living that is constructed 100% from c/f without issue. In it's flight enviornment it experiences more RF energy than you can imagine and to date the only thing that's interfered with it is a jamming system from an EA6B Prowler. Then again, the Prowler can screw up any radio broadcast.

dirtybird

My Feedback: (5)

I sure have to agree with you.
There is a remote possibility that if the length of the rod is an exact multiple of a quarter wavelength of the control frequency it might act as an antenna reflector element . All that would do is change the antenna pattern a little bit. You might even be better off!
I wish the people that insist you must use plastic rods would tell us why.
I have been flying gas powered models since 1975 and have always used a steel cable for throttle control.
Except for one airplane I used a snake drive. That is a steel cable that is firmly connected to the engine and runs back into the radio compartment. A lot of people have used the snake drive.

TT2

My Feedback: (13)

I followed the advice of others and used nyrod on some gassers. IMO, nyrod is way too flimsy...there is enough clearance inside the nyrod sleeve to allow for slop in the linkage. I supported the nyrod sleeve, etc, etc, etc, in an attempt to get back some accuracy...to no avail.

Two Edges ago I started using CF rods with Nelson 4-40 ball links for throttle and choke. Just to let you know what kind of gear I'm using, the servos are typically digital minis and are within 8" of the ignition. JR 10x Tx, JR 945 Rx (1 per plane), 2 Li-Ion packs / switches per Rx...no power busses, battery backers, servo de-glitcherizers, or any other electronic gee-whizmos. Best range checks I've ever had, never the slightest glitch in the air. Yeah I hate shelling out $200 for Rxs (I can't find them used since I'm on 50Mhz)...but I'll use this same setup EVERY time.

Anyway, the CF throttle linkage is TIGHT and ACCURATE...stays that way too. If you get glitches then (as mentioned above) it may be due to an oldy-moldy ignition or cheap radio gear.

-Tom

exeter_acres

My Feedback: (2)

with my DA-50...I used titanium turnbuckles

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

CF rods, titanium ends. CH sells them. Then I use ball ends on that. I used 2-56 on my last DA 50.

RTK

My Feedback: (1)

I have only used CF for a few years now and as long as your range check with engine off/on is with in 10% you are fine. This is what I use and I usually make 150+yards on both tests following the manufacturers test regimen. Silversurfer can attest to that.
Plastic ny-rod always seems to change with temp, even the latest greatest has "some" expansion/contraction and can not be as stable as CF or steel.
Just my 2 cents worth.

The bird man

Here's a post I started that may help you out

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3834437

Flyfalcons

Wow, some of these setups sound interesting. I just use a metal pushrod with plastic ball links.