Great-North

I have painted a fiberglass cowl with Krylon primer and color coats. I have sanded between each coat to get a smoth glossy finish. I want to spray lustercoat clear coat on top. Do i sand the last color coat before applying the clear? thanks.

Mark

Deadeye

A light scuff with 400-800 grit will help the clear adhere. You might want to test that Lusterkote on a scrap before you put it on your cowl. Lusterkote is a laquer based paint, and will attack other paints that are incompatible. While I have no experience with Krylon, I do with Rustolueam, and Lusterkote clear attacks that.

If it attacks, you can still apply the clear if the first several coats are dusted on. Spray lightly, and quickly. Allow 15 -20 minutes between each dust coat. When you are sure the dust coats have covered the cowl entirely, apply the final coats, getting wetter each time.

Good Luck.

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

I agree with deadeye--test before you spray. I have used LusterKote clear over American Accents (a Rustoleum product) and over Hangar 9's Ultracoat paint, which is an acrylic enamel that is also fuel-proof. With two provisions: allow the undercoat to dry for at least a week to ensure full cure, and when you clearcoat with the LusterKote, mist the first coat on very, very lightly, and allow to dry for about 15 minutes (a light coat will be dry to touch in about 5 minutes--very fast drying) Then mist another light coat, allow to dry, and then another. After three light coats, let it dry overnight, and then you can do heavier coats without worrying too much. Just don't apply it so heavy that it looks "smooth wet", or it will soften the undercoat. Best bet is a series of fairly light coats, but you'll have an extremely durable, fuel-PROOF paint job.

I have a plane with both enamel and LusterKote paints, and the whole thing is clearcoated with oil-base polyurethane. After 2-1/2 years, the poly is coming off in places, but the LusterKote looks brand new still. I use LusterKote over latex paint also, and it protects very well, plus it will fill the weave in Solartex and make it easier to keep clean.

CafeenMan

I just used clear Lustercoat for the first time. I sprayed a fiberglassed part that had been sanded and degreased. The Lustercoat wasn't hard even after a week and that was just two light coats. It wasn't sticky but it was soft. I finally gave up on it and sanded it all back off. Lustercoat is going by the curb on Tuesday. I don't recommend the stuff.

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

Try Ultracote clear or Nelson's clear with the crosslinker. I have had very good luck with both. With the Ultracote, be sure to check for compatibility. If I remember correctly, Lusterkote is a lacquer base and Ultracote is an enamel base. You can put enamel over lacquer, but not the other way.

The Nelson's is a water base, so you should not have any problems over either lacquer or enamel. I do suggest a test panel first though, just to be sure.

CafeenMan

Thanks Campy. This is the tail skid of the Eindecker I finished last year. The tail skid broke. I made a new one from laminated plywood and glassed it. I tried lustercoat on it because the only complaints I've heard about it are that it is "sometimes" not fuel proof. That doesn't matter here - no glow fuel is getting on this skid. I already sprayed it with clear solvent-base poly.

Great-North

Thanks for all the info. I've got he base coats done, just need to let cure for a week. Then i'll try the very light coats of clear on top.
Thanks again

Mark