Diff shimming
04-13-2006, 01:04 AM
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Diff shimming
This was posted somewhere else but I thing people will benefit from it if they keep blowing the 4 spider diff gears .After 3 days of very hard bashing I took my diffs apart to cheek for were or damage am happy too say everything was good !!! Do NOT put the shims were the guy from the link did that will spread the gears out more .The shims need to go inside the diff cups on the output shafts .Pull the spider gears out then the two larger gears now pull the pins Clean all the gears and diff cup real good. now put the output shafts in and the o-rings add ur shims .Dont put too many on cause you need too get those cross pins in .now reassemble dry and check to make sure the out put shafts turn smooth with little or no end play. If it seems too bind or is hard too turn remove a shim or two if you still have end play add a shim and cheek again keep trying till it turns smooth with no end play. When your happy with it put your choice of diff lube in .you want thicker in the rear then in the front .Now put ur truck back together and beat the " H" out of it.
04-13-2006, 05:57 AM
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RE: Diff shimming
Actually, the shims should be on the outside of the spider gear shafts. Putting them on the output shafts, while it makes some difference, still leaves a lot of play.
04-13-2006, 07:41 AM
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RE: Diff shimming
pictures with this kind of thread work best. keeps it less confusing, but having some Cat post that you have something backward or wrong all together dont help either...lol
If you dont know what a shim is dont mess with it.
.its a flat washer or measure of material used to take up space.
If you dont know what a shim is dont mess with it.
.its a flat washer or measure of material used to take up space.
04-13-2006, 09:15 AM
#5
RE: Diff shimming
ORIGINAL: myber92fs
This was posted somewhere else but I thing people will benefit from it if they keep blowing the 4 spider diff gears .After 3 days of very hard bashing I took my diffs apart to cheek for were or damage am happy too say everything was good !!! Do NOT put the shims were the guy from the link did that will spread the gears out more .The shims need to go inside the diff cups on the output shafts .Pull the spider gears out then the two larger gears now pull the pins Clean all the gears and diff cup real good. now put the output shafts in and the o-rings add ur shims .Dont put too many on cause you need too get those cross pins in .now reassemble dry and check to make sure the out put shafts turn smooth with little or no end play. If it seems too bind or is hard too turn remove a shim or two if you still have end play add a shim and cheek again keep trying till it turns smooth with no end play. When your happy with it put your choice of diff lube in .you want thicker in the rear then in the front .Now put ur truck back together and beat the " H" out of it.
This was posted somewhere else but I thing people will benefit from it if they keep blowing the 4 spider diff gears .After 3 days of very hard bashing I took my diffs apart to cheek for were or damage am happy too say everything was good !!! Do NOT put the shims were the guy from the link did that will spread the gears out more .The shims need to go inside the diff cups on the output shafts .Pull the spider gears out then the two larger gears now pull the pins Clean all the gears and diff cup real good. now put the output shafts in and the o-rings add ur shims .Dont put too many on cause you need too get those cross pins in .now reassemble dry and check to make sure the out put shafts turn smooth with little or no end play. If it seems too bind or is hard too turn remove a shim or two if you still have end play add a shim and cheek again keep trying till it turns smooth with no end play. When your happy with it put your choice of diff lube in .you want thicker in the rear then in the front .Now put ur truck back together and beat the " H" out of it.
Here is an Ofna diff kit:http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBZD0&P=M
The silver washers in the center of the pic are spider gear shims. Ofna uses them, Savages DON'T. The shims go between the small 2 or 4 spider gears, and the diff case. I tried shimming a Savage diff, and when I tightened down the diff case screws, it locked up my gears so as not to spin. I don't recommend doing it. If your stock Savage gears have a lot of slop, you need to replace the plastic diff case.
04-13-2006, 11:11 AM
#7
RE: Diff shimming
ORIGINAL: myber92fs
If you dont like my idea dont use it.It has worked very well for me .About the pics Unfortunately I dont have a camera
If you dont like my idea dont use it.It has worked very well for me .About the pics Unfortunately I dont have a camera
04-13-2006, 05:16 PM
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RE: Diff shimming
ORIGINAL: Scouser
myber92fs, I am assuming you meant to say you put the thicker diff oil in the front and the thinner oil in the rear?
myber92fs, I am assuming you meant to say you put the thicker diff oil in the front and the thinner oil in the rear?
04-13-2006, 11:00 PM
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RE: Diff shimming
Thinner in front to leave better diff action for turning and thicker in the rear for less diff action more posy. yes this is what I am going for.
04-14-2006, 09:11 AM
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RE: Diff shimming
What is the thickest oil some one has used in a Savvy in the front diff and not seen a degradation in steering response?
as for the Shimm story: Would it not depend on the problem as to where the shimms need be put?
I have checked clearances and shimms aren't usually helpfull in a stock setup unless a resonable amount of alloy parts surround the gears.
e.g. using alloy Diff Housing or Bulk heads or even using not quite to spec non-MIPs/HPI replacement parts.
Some Backlash is required in the gears for that magical film of lube to do its job and to aid alignment of the teeth. I guess there is no harm in minimizing it though.
as for the Shimm story: Would it not depend on the problem as to where the shimms need be put?
I have checked clearances and shimms aren't usually helpfull in a stock setup unless a resonable amount of alloy parts surround the gears.
e.g. using alloy Diff Housing or Bulk heads or even using not quite to spec non-MIPs/HPI replacement parts.
Some Backlash is required in the gears for that magical film of lube to do its job and to aid alignment of the teeth. I guess there is no harm in minimizing it though.
04-19-2006, 01:48 AM
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RE: Diff shimming
I am using 10k and 100k (10 f and 100 r) and all is well. as to stock versus alu it is all stock.In the diffs.Shims are cheaper then diff cups and $$$ is tight right now.Also as of 4/18/06 everything is great I pulled it apart too check cause I was upgrading my steering w/ bearings and also was checking my clutch shoes. Since it was that far apart I tore it down the rest of the way.
04-19-2006, 08:21 AM
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RE: Diff shimming
I get really good limited slip diff action (more posy when I throttle it hard) running 7k, I dont run any thicker than that in the front diff. too thick in the front would make it handle like a wagon. for strait up bashing, not caring so much about getting around corners and handling not being so important then I spose it wouldnt matter.
04-19-2006, 05:35 PM
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RE: Diff shimming
If you want to know about shimming your diffs, you won't go far wrong checking this site out. www.madmanluke.co.uk.
As for shim kits, I have produced one which is on fleabay( http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...MESE%3AIT&rd=1 ) or I'll do them for £7.00 posted to RCU members in the UK, for other postage please inquire via e-mail.
Any questions e-mail me at [email protected]
As for shim kits, I have produced one which is on fleabay( http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...MESE%3AIT&rd=1 ) or I'll do them for £7.00 posted to RCU members in the UK, for other postage please inquire via e-mail.
Any questions e-mail me at [email protected]
