Tail struts/rigging--RF interference???
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Tail struts/rigging--RF interference???
I am trying to come up with a way to utilize the piles of extra pieces around here to come up with a set of struts for the tail of my CA Extra 1/4 scale. If I were to use metal pushrods with soldered on metal clevises, then used screws into the hardwood dowels I have already installed, would the metal to metal contact of the screws and clevises create RF interference????? I'm not sure what the clevises are made of (probably steel), the screws are zinc plated.
I thought about using some good nylon clevises, but if the pushrods arent threaded, how can I attach them to the pushrod??? JB weld???
I also thought I could put a tiny bit of threadlock on the screw and clevis to keep them from vibrating loose.
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks!
Dave
I thought about using some good nylon clevises, but if the pushrods arent threaded, how can I attach them to the pushrod??? JB weld???
I also thought I could put a tiny bit of threadlock on the screw and clevis to keep them from vibrating loose.
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks!
Dave
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Tail struts/rigging--RF interference???
Yea I agree,
I have used 4-40 and 2-56 rods countless times with out any interference. I usually make little tabs to mount on the surfaces and then attach the links to them with out fail..I think Sullivan sells some separately or use some flat landing gear straps and bend to the desired angle.
v-snap
I have used 4-40 and 2-56 rods countless times with out any interference. I usually make little tabs to mount on the surfaces and then attach the links to them with out fail..I think Sullivan sells some separately or use some flat landing gear straps and bend to the desired angle.
v-snap
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Tail Rigging
I've been using Bob Holman/Mick Reeves flat wire rigging wth threaded studs silver soldered onto each end. Then metal clevises threaded onto them. They are attached to the tail surfaces with stainless steel rigging tabs, bolted straight thru the dowel inserts. So there's a metal to metal joint between the clevis and the tab. It looks slick and very scale, and I've never had an interference problem.
I've since rigged the wings of a Waco biplane this way, but I haven't tried it yet.
Cheers, Nigel
I've since rigged the wings of a Waco biplane this way, but I haven't tried it yet.
Cheers, Nigel
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Tail rigging
using fm reciever I have had problemms when they get loose.
I would get little glitches here and there until i tightened the screws, then no more glitch 'til they came loose again.
The wieght of the rods and the vibration from the engine tend to loosen them up quit often. I changed them to wire fishing leader and they very rarely come loose (less weight vibrating) and no more glitch.
I have not used PCM yet but this may hide the glitching.
Lou
I would get little glitches here and there until i tightened the screws, then no more glitch 'til they came loose again.
The wieght of the rods and the vibration from the engine tend to loosen them up quit often. I changed them to wire fishing leader and they very rarely come loose (less weight vibrating) and no more glitch.
I have not used PCM yet but this may hide the glitching.
Lou
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Tail struts/rigging--RF interference???
Just a suggestion.....
Try Spider Line, fishing line.... (ala, Kevlar)
I use 60lb for pull, pull rudder and for tail bracing all the time..
Local fishing supply stores should have it..
The heaviest I can find here is 60lb...
But ya can do a serch for "Fire Line, Rip Cord" and get it in the 100lb flavor...
Best advantage is no metal to metal bugs...is thin, and strong...
Try Spider Line, fishing line.... (ala, Kevlar)
I use 60lb for pull, pull rudder and for tail bracing all the time..
Local fishing supply stores should have it..
The heaviest I can find here is 60lb...
But ya can do a serch for "Fire Line, Rip Cord" and get it in the 100lb flavor...
Best advantage is no metal to metal bugs...is thin, and strong...
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Tail struts/rigging--RF interference???
I've never had a problem with HEAVY plastic landing gear straps
and the use of a Sullivan pull pull end...with a fishing knot tied through the hole in the threaded part...and a drop of super glue to hold it..
I don't know if Sullivan still makes a Kevlar pull pull kit that comes with all the fittings...the last one I bought is still hanging on the wall...
You don't have to worry about the metal ends causing a problem if they are attatched to plastic..
A little imagination and I'm sure that you can come up with a good setup using this method..everything will be isolated at the plastic straps...
and the use of a Sullivan pull pull end...with a fishing knot tied through the hole in the threaded part...and a drop of super glue to hold it..
I don't know if Sullivan still makes a Kevlar pull pull kit that comes with all the fittings...the last one I bought is still hanging on the wall...
You don't have to worry about the metal ends causing a problem if they are attatched to plastic..
A little imagination and I'm sure that you can come up with a good setup using this method..everything will be isolated at the plastic straps...
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Kevlar
Hey guys, Sullivan has kevlar for control line models, instead of the old braided steel cable. They call it "Tufstrand" and one spool has two lines 60' long, so 120' per spool. Tower has it for $10.49 per spool, or about 87 cents per ft. BigBird1, how does that price compare to your source? I picked up a spool at the LHS and I've been using it for pull - pull controls. I like your idea of using kevlar for stab bracing. My flat wires aren't light but, that's the price you pay for scale realism!
Nigel
Nigel
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Tail struts/rigging--RF interference???
150 yds of 60lb line was about $26.00...That's a lifetime supply for me...about 18cents per yard...
The 100lb stuff is about $38.00 a spool, but don't know about the yardage...
Hear that for realisim....Some people have troubles with their radios...some don't....I have two planes with the music wire for bracing both on FM and not a lick of problems...and the others are with Kevlar..
So who knows.....
The 100lb stuff is about $38.00 a spool, but don't know about the yardage...
Hear that for realisim....Some people have troubles with their radios...some don't....I have two planes with the music wire for bracing both on FM and not a lick of problems...and the others are with Kevlar..
So who knows.....
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Tail struts/rigging--RF interference???
I use a coated-kevlar. To attatch it, I use aluminum tube cut down to about 3/8" , then loop it and crimp it. Done. The clevis's allow for adjustment, and all you do is give it a twist until you reach your tension. Much easier to adjust then metal rod, and no RF interferance. The couplers/clevis's only have to go on one end for adjustment. Here's a pic of a few riggings...
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Tail struts/rigging--RF interference???
Just a quick question...
Where did you get the coated Kevlar...?
I have thought about pulling the fishing line through Dipit tool coating to coat it like that..comes in many colors to match the color of the plane..
I also noticed that the crimp is off to one side any particular reason...?
Setup looks great...
Thanks,
BB1
Where did you get the coated Kevlar...?
I have thought about pulling the fishing line through Dipit tool coating to coat it like that..comes in many colors to match the color of the plane..
I also noticed that the crimp is off to one side any particular reason...?
Setup looks great...
Thanks,
BB1