specialFX

Hi Folks, I just got my Rookie2 some minutes ago! A first glimps at the wings, canards and verticals shows amazing quality! The parts seem to be very light too!

A really happy man
brg
Thomas

schroedm

My Feedback: (1)

Enjoy it Thomas!

Which scheme did you go for?

Rgds,
Mark

specialFX

Hi Mark!

The last one on stock at my local Rep was Sunset. At first I was a bit disapointed, but now as I can see and - touch - it, it´s an amazing scheme for a sportjet!

And off course, your immediate response last week will not be forgotten, nice to know there are some ambitious guys out there, even in spleeny UK;-)

greetings
Thomas

jetjockey

My Feedback: (8)

Mark, I don't know if you got updated instructions with your new bird, but be sure the CG is 130 mm ahead of the wing tube - the old Rookie was 100 mm ahead of the wing tube - the new one will fly at the old CG point, but it is very snappy and elevator sensitive. The canards should be set neutral with the eyebrows molded into the fuse, and should travel for up elevator - canard trailing edge down 20 mm max (mine are set at about 15 mm), and for down elevator - the canard trailing edge should travel up 10 - 15 mm (mine are set for 10mm). Try to use the built in hinge for the speed brake - it looks like it won't work, but trust me - cut the epoxy skin with a file along the hinge line (duplicate the hinge line cut that the rear hatch already has) and you will be happy with the fit and function.

Other than those changes, almost everything else is straight forward. The new larger hatch is really nice for equipment mounting, and it balances at 130 mm with everything pretty much on the tray. I did cut my elevon travel to about half of what the instructions say. If you want to do 3D leave them like the instructions say, but be prepared for some wild manuvering. I found that about half the recommended travel suits my style of flying perfectly.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

Good luck with your new bird - I sure like mine and am sure you will like yours, too.

Regards, Les

jetjockey

My Feedback: (8)

Whoops, Thomas, I named Mark in my post, but really aimed the info to you. Anyway, I'll be glad to answer any questions anybody has on the new Rookie if I can. I've got around 15 - 18 flights on mine now, and am really loving it.

Regards, Les

specialFX

Les, THX a lot for your information. The instructions are still the old ones from the Rookie (version 1.2). But I´ve downloaded the addition for the new rookie last week from the C-ARF hompage. CG information was still incorrect in that addendum.
I saw your thread about CG here on RCU last week, as I took some research about this amazing new plane.
Can you give me some information about your equipment, engine etc. As I use my existing turbine which is a bit heavier than a JC-120 I´m a bit concerned if CG will be on spot, additionally I plan to use a LiPo-pack for my turbine to save almost 500grms and hope to be able to balance the plane without any lead.
What´s your RC-setup for the canards and thrust vectoring? The manuals state to use both only at lower speeds.??

Thomas

jetjockey

My Feedback: (8)

Thomas, I used a standard Simjet 3000 in mine with a 12 volt Lithium Ion ECU battery pack and a 4000mah recr Lithium Ion pack from Fromeco. I also used his voltage regulator on the RX pack. I used a 2 litre cola bottle and 2 - 24 oz Dubro tanks in parallel for my fuel system. I placed my ECU pack just ahead of the main wheels, and my RX pack is just behind my speed brake opening adjacent to one of the 24 oz tanks. I also placed my brake sol/servo, and my retract valve/servo on either side of the rails underneath the aft end of the equipment tray. I'm running two medium size air tanks and placed them on either side of the rails just ahead of the brake/retract equipment. I put the fuel pump in the middle rear of the tray, ECU on the right side of the pump at the rear of the tray, RX on the left side at the front of the tray. My manual valves, and turbine stuff (switches) went in the middle of the tray. If your engine is heavier, mount it a little further forward than you would the Jetcat, and then move stuff around to balance it. I was surprised at how easy it was to get everything installed and then balanced with the longer nose. All my other Rookies had a lot of problems getting stuff installed far enough back to get the CG right, but this one seems really easy. BTW, I have my fuel and propane solenoids mounted in the engine compartment just in front of the engine.

I used JR equipment - 945 RX, 8411 servos (4) on the elevons, JR 517's on the rudders and valves, 8411 on the nosewheel steering with a pull-pull tiller arm, and am going to change whatever I used on the speed brake to a JR 8411. I used an off brand metal gear servo for the speed brake, but it doesn't have enough push to lower the speed brake until I really slow the bird down on final - by then I don't really need the speed brake. I used SpringAir Retracts with Robart struts, and Trim wheels and brakes.

The canards are mixed into the elevons, as is the thrust tube. I minimized the thrust tube until I get used to the plane and have it set on about 10 mm up and down right now. I set the canards initially at +- 25 mm but felt it was a little too much, and cut them back to +20 - 15 and fly it that way currently (I may change as I get more familiar with the airplane). As long as you don't slam the controls full over at speed, I don't think having everything operating will hurt anything. I also have a Eurosport that have the canards operating full time and haven't had any problems with it like that, but I would limit the throw on everything and slow it down if you want to do some wild gyrations. The book also says the factory test pilots have used thrust vectoring for all phases of flight, but don't slam the controls over without slowing the airplane down some. I've started adding more travel as I get more familiar with mine, and so far, haven't had any problems.

My Simjet puts out 30 # of thrust which is about twice what I really need to fly the Rookie. I spend most of my flight time at around 1/2 throttle except for takeoff. Residual thrust is sort of a problem also, because it is a little difficult to slow the airplane down - hence the need for a reliable and strong speed brake. I do like the vertical with this engine, however, and enjoy flying it that way. I have a friend who put a P-80 on a Rookie, and it flies his just fine, but I like the extra power for the vertical manuvers. It is really a blast to fly.

Again, good luck with your new bird. I'm positive that you'll really like it.

Regards, Les

jettset99

My Feedback: (7)

Hi I just recieved one also! but it doesn't have the speed brake cut out on the bottem, is That normal ? Thanks Paul

specialFX

Paul, same here, seems to be standard.

Les, THX for the thorough information. Seems to be no prob to achieve correct CG. My engine is a Frank TJ-74KS (150N), weight is approx 1550grms, I think your simjet shouldn´t be much lighter. I´ll downrate it to 120N for the first flights at least, then we´ll see;-).
Servos will be fully Hitec (no Jihaad about that please). 4xHS-5945 in the wings, 2xHS-5945 on canard and thrust vectoring, HS-5625 on rudders, HS-945 for speedbrake, HS-645 on nosewheel, 2xHS81 for robart valve (red) and UP-6. Retracts, struts and wheels and brakes are Behotec. Receiver JR/Graupner SMC-20DS, 2x4cells GP2000 NiMH for receiver, 3s2220 TANIC LiPo for turbine.
Your RC-setup seems to be straight forward, in my thoghts the same route to go.
Only problem i have right now is a proper tank configuration. My rep sold me a 2,6l main tank, but as it seems to me it won´t fit without some mods to the formers. I planned to use a 24oz secondary fuel cell, but as far as I can see right now I would have to place it in front of the forward former, generating a serious CG-shift when becoming empty. Where did you position your 2x24oz cells? Any pics avail? After discussing the topic with my buddies this evening, I thoght the best solution would be to make a 3,2-3,5l GRP fuel cell, that will fit into the precut formers. The optional kevlar tank from C-ARF isn´t avail right now.

Thomas

specialFX

Les, I forgot to ask what dry weight?

After having unpacked and inspected the kit components, I´m very happy with the quality of the parts. Very good seams, the color-finish without a single imperfection, all parts very light and still strong. Only 2 little bubbles between surface-cloth and foam at the leading edge area of one canard, a non issue, just cosmetics. Not to forget it´s no 2K$$$ bird, I´m VERY pleased and eagerly awaiting to fly it!!

thx
Thomas

jetjockey

My Feedback: (8)

Thomas, I haven't weighed my bird yet, but will do so this weekend, and let you know how heavy it is. For my fuel tank set up, I used a 2 litre cola bottle for the main tank (that's vented to the outside), and used 2 - 24 oz Dubro tanks "Y"d together that the cola bottle feeds. From both 24 oz Dubro tanks, I "Y"d the feed line for the UAT and from there to the manual cut off valve, on to the pump, filter, and then to the solenoid, another filter, then the engine (two filters might be a little over-kill, but I've never had any problems with dirt in the system). I normally don't use much (if any) of the Dubro tanks fuel, but it's there if I need it, for a go-around or two, if traffic is heavy. I get 6 - 7 minutes of flight just off the main 2 liter tank with usually no (or very little) fuel out of the Dubro tanks, so haven't noticed a trim change since the Dubros stay full of fuel almost all the time. My two Dubro tanks are positioned ahead of the former (no way to get them behind it) on either side of the fuse tucked into the shoulders as far out as I can wedge them. They actually span the speed brake opening, and I secured them in place with a dab of Goop. I've used this same configuration on all my Rookies, and it has worked out just fine with no problems, so far. One thing I did notice is that the opening in the fuse formers for the cola bottle has been made bigger than on the old style Rookie. I made a large grommet from silicone fuel line to line the opening in the formers, and then added a thin layer of receiver foam around the bottle where it would touch the formers. I did this mainly to help hold the bottle in place, and to help keep it from getting a hole rubbed in it.

Paul, yes, the speed brake is not cut out from the factory - this is normal. It looks a little intimidating, but isn't really. The way I did it was to take a small hand drill and put a 1/16th hole from the inside of the fuse at each end of the hinge line through the bottom surface of the fuse. The hinge line is open inside the fuse and you can easily see it from the top. I tried to put a light inside the fuse and see through the epoxy surface and locate the hinge line from the bottom, but that didn't work for me. By drilling a hole at each end of the molded hinge line, this will mark the two forward corners of the speed brake and will also locate the built in hinge line so you can find it on the bottom surface of the fuse. I then drew a pencil line from one hole to the other across the outside bottom of the fuse which is the hinge line, and will be the starting point for the other cuts. Take a square and measure the ends of the speed brake from the holes toward the rear of the fuse (on the bottom outside), and mark with a pencil. I don't remember how big the speed brake is, but I added 10 mm to the instructions width for more braking effect on mine, but you may want to stay with the original measurments. Probably doesn't make a lot of difference, anyway. Once you have the two ends of the speed brake marked, then connect the two marks at the end of each line opposite the drilled holes, with another line for the aft lip cut. Make sure your aft lip measurement is parallel with the previously marked hinge line, and then mark that cut line with a pencil. You should now have a rectangular speed brake penciled in place when you're finished, but no cuts at this point. Check to see if your marks are square and parallel before you start cutting. If it is what you want, the only other thing now is to start cutting with a razor saw along the two ends, and the aft line (not the hinge line) you marked. I like to use a razor saw - it's a little difficult and slow, but gives me the smallest gap in the cut - you could use a Dremel saw, but it makes a large gap, plus if it gets away from you, can sure make a mess. Once you get the two ends and aft line cut free, then take a knife file or triangular file and remove the epoxy finish from the hinge line on the outside bottom of the fuse (between the two previously drilled locator holes), being careful to NOT go through the hinge. Clear the epoxy finish away like the bottom engine bay hatch hinge line. Once you get it cleared of epoxy, the speed brake can open easily. I relieved (cut) my hinge about an inch in (toward the center of the fuse) from the previously drilled holes to keep the bottom of the fuse from flexing so much when the servo deployed the brake. The bottom of the fuse is slightly curved and the curve will help hold it closed when not deployed. This way, you don't have to add extra hinges, and if you do screw up and cut the molded in hinge, you can still hinge it with extra hinges, and it will work fine that way, too. I used my built in hinge this way and sure do like it better than adding additional hinges. I didn't put a strong enough servo on my brake, so the air pressure overcomes the servo when at speed, however, by the time I land, the brake comes down - looks good, but doesn't help kill the speed much. I've got to change the servo for a stronger one this weekend when I get time.

Hope this helps make it a little easier. The speed brake was the only part I thought was difficult with the building since all the other openings were already cut from the factory. I still think this kit is on heck of a deal!!!

Regards, Les

specialFX

Les, ur information and tips are very useful and well apreciated! I´m eagerly looking foreward in flying this nice bird.
After venting some ideas with my buddies I´ll try to build a custom fuel cell for approx 3,4l fuel. After developing some ideas with them it seems to be easier than I thought. Details will follow in the other thread here on RCU: [link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3210940/tm.htm[/link]

Initially, after reading many posts about the original Rookie I bought some offset hinges for the speed brake, but it seems to work as intended when done correctly. Nice info about that! Do you know the torque of your current SB-servo? I´ll plan to use a Hitec HS-945MG on the airbrake, but I don´t know if it´s strong enough.

THX
Thomas

jetjockey

My Feedback: (8)

Thomas, I weighed my Rookie this weekend. Full of fuel and ready to go weighed out at 28#. Subtracting about 6# for a full load of fuel brings it in around 22# dry. BTW, I also used a Hitec 945 metal geared servo on the Speed Brake. I kept fiddling around with mine and it feels like it should deploy the brake correctly. I decided to give it another chance this coming weekend by flying it and deploying the brake in flight instead of on my downwind leg before landing, and see if it in fact, works correctly. In addition, I might have bad servo - I've used the Hitec 945 on other Rookie Speed Brakes, and it worked fine there, not sure why it seems to be weak in this application. I'll see before I change it out (what a Royal pain to change it out at this stage!!).

Good Luck

Regards, Les

specialFX

Hi Les!

Thx for weighting the plane!
Today I worked on my fuselage. I made the SB according to your information above, seems to work perfect! Tomorrow I´ll finally mount the servo and put in the RC-tray. Changing the servo afterwards isn´t really a pleasure - we gona see if the servo comes up to the job. I hope � can finish laminating my fuelcell tomorrow, too, then I can check it out on thursday on the engine test bed before installing it into the fuse.
Building this ARF is a real joy, I´m eagerly awaiting flying it.

best regards
Thomas

1bettenu

My Feedback: (5)

i have the rookie 2 and am experiencing some problems as when landing and appling brakes it pulls hard left thus causing repairs to be made ...this is my first jet...taking of and flying is no problem..but the stopping of the jetleads to some interesting stops.

Airforce7

My Feedback: (31)

1Bettenu,

With a proportional brake valve from Minihobbies and putting as little grease on my Rookie II Interairco wheel/brakes I still occasionally do 360° spins on the runway at the end of my roll outs. I think that you need to allow the jet to slow down a lot on roll out before applying brakes. My jet pulls hard left when I'm to fast and apply full brakes. So I've learned to be patient and let the jet slow down and apply the brakes gently while maintaining directional control with nose wheel steering until she comes to a full stop.

Thomas,

I've got 40+ flights on mine now and she weights in at approx. 24# dry (w/ P-120). Fully loaded, it weights approx 30# (w/ 3 liter fuel tank and two Sullivan 12oz tanks for smoke).

Make the speed brake using the live hinge!!!! I did mine with offset hinges and regret it for two reasons (see photos). Spend the money to buy offset hinges and had to fix one over the weekend and second, you should get better access to the inside to grab tubing or servo leads, etc.

Ken

jetjockey

My Feedback: (8)

Guys, I've been flying my Rookie II a lot last fall, but we've had horrible winds this spring out here in West Texas, so I haven't been able to do a lot of flying so far this year. Looks like it's about to get into summer and the winds have pretty much died down, finally. Pulling to one side or another is pretty standard when you're rolling out with a lot of speed. My theory is that the brakes don't deploy at the same rate, and one or the other wheel tries to "grab" and pulls the airplane to one side or another. Try presetting your brakes on downwind before landing with your slider and see if it doesn't touch down and roll out straight. That's what we've been doing out here, and it seems to work fine. Once you've got the speed down, you can start using the brake lever and it doesn't seem to grab and pull so bad. We set up our brakes on the flap lever (for parking and pre-set) and then mix the down elevator into the brakes also. That way, you can pre-set your brakes while flying, and then taxy with down elevator working the brakes once you're on the ground and remove the slider pre-set.

I removed the Simjet 3000 from my Rookie II and put a P-80 in it instead. It's not quite as fast, and doesn't have the unlimited vertical that the SJ 3000 gave it, but I think I like it better. I still fly around 1/2 throttle (except for takeoff and verticals) and have just as much fun, plus the fuel economy is much better - instead of 6 minutes on the timer with the 3000, I've gone up to 10 minutes with the P-80, and still have fuel left. I think it's a better combination -- for me, anyway. I don't have to worry about getting up too much speed and blowing something off the airplane. I think I'll keep the P-80 in it for a while and put some time on it.

I put the SJ 3000 in my Eurofighter with a straight pipe, and it flies as well as it did with a Titan and a bifurcated pipe in it -- plus the fuel economy is better on it, too. Before, I was timing out at 6 minutes with the Titan, but am able to go to 8 minutes with the 3000. Lots of fun, and the same performance.

Good luck with your brakes. They always seem to be a little touchy regardless of what you do, anyway.

Regards, Les

CARBUNCLE

Ditto to all good comments on Rookie 2, especially using the factory/ built in/ magic hinge for speedbrake.. I cut out my speedbrake a little different dimensions 11.5 inches x 2.5 inches ... This helped by not having to deal with the curvature of the bottom as much (side to side).. also I cut in on the ends of the hinge line about .5 inch which helps too. I have my canards activated by switch and y leaded to pitch on pipe, they stay at neutral till i'm ready to do the wild 3d stuff. AND for u guys who need an extra channel, I have y leaded my landing gear to speedbrake and I'm -taking off- and landing on grass with the speed brake deployed at about 70 degrees (kinda like flaps but more angle), still slows good and lands and stops within 50 to 80 ft.. this is my 2nd rookie, 1st one still flys great too, 200 safe and fun filled flts between the 2 and I'll be glad to give anyone more tips if you'll pm me.- btw -a little trivia- I heard the name Rookie came from roo-key or kangaroo plug/mold,- makes sense. ... IMO- ROOKIE 2 IS BY FAR THE BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK IF U WANT TO DO MORE THAN PATTERN MANEUVERS.. 3D JETS- THE FINAL FRONTIER.