madman75

I'm going to be covering a plane soon and I want to use Monokote trim sheet to add some graphics. Since this stuff has adhesive on the back of it, it sticks instantly. This makes it difficult to get it put down right the first time. Can I use water and soap mixture sprayed down first on the Monokote and then put the trim sheet graphics on and then squeegee the water out from under the trim sheet graphics? Will this work? Anybody have tips or tricks on using Monokote trim sheets?

robflyer82

My Feedback: (1)

I've done the water and dish soap and it works fine. I also used windex with good results. You should get some trim solvent or I hear clear nail polish works the same way, to seal down the edges. I didnt' and after a few months parts, my trim is starting to lift up a little bit at the edges.

Rob

Dr1Driver

Monokote Trim Sheets are NOT fuel proof, only fuel resistant. In fact, they'll start peeling up fairly quickly if in the exhaust stream. I'd use more Monokote or some Ultracote.

Dr.1

madman75

The trim sheet is going on a gasser and won't /shouldn't get any fuel or oil on it. I have a few places that I want to put the trim sheet on the plane because of the small size of the application. So can I use the water/soap to get the trim sheet in place and squeeze out the water and still have the trim sheet stick good?

mando

My Feedback: (1)

Yes, I've done the windex application method, with good results. I've used it to wrap engine compartmens on glow setup, with good results also.

Electriceddie

Madman75

Absolutely Windex - Dish soap means getting the balance of soap to water right, to much soap and things get messy. Use the Windex method it's already mixed and ready to go as it comes out of the bottle. Use a small plastic card or 1/8th" peice of 3 x 4 inch balsa sheeting as a squeege. I have used this method for many years. Works great and no air bubbles. Remember to work from the center out with the squeege and then follow up with a folded paper towel blotting the excess windex off the surface. Let it dry overnight before you touch it and it wiil be sealed fine to the surface being applied too. Also make sure your hands are clean before you start, you don't want any figerprint type oil on the trim sheet. I don't seal the edges at all unless the tips of - lets say a statburst pattern is used and where a very thin point of the trim sheet would be in direct line from the exhaust of the muffler. Then I would seal it with Clear Nail Polish. I have a bottle for years now that I use. Just test it on scrap some nail polish is no good and will melt the trim sheet. I forget the chemical name that is in the nail polish that causes it to melt. I am sure one of the other guys will know and reply as well.


Good Luck

Charlie P.

I make my own plane cleaner & decal transfer solution. A fellow named Jim Quinn in a former club came up with this many years ago (does not harm iron on coverings)

5 cups water
1 cup 91% isopropyl alcohol
1/2 cup household ammonia
2 tsp liquid detergent ( I use "All")

I carry a small (2 oz) recycled CA accelerator bottle in my flight box to refill with this as needed.

I used this solution to "float" a couple three ft x 1 ft name decals on the side of my sailboat. Works great on R/C size sticky decals and does anything Windex does (except help bruised elbows).

I save all of those stupid pseudo credit cards that come unrequested in the mail and use them for squeegies when smoothing out decals with the soapy solution.

pmw

My Feedback: (1)

madman,

I agree with all the above. But you need to be aware of compound curves. Unlike the heat shrink films, the trim sheet will only curve in one plane. It will not go around a compound (or double) curve. It's difficult to get a large piece to work well on a surface like a wing because the surface between the ribs is a compound curve. On a sheeted wing, no problem. Good luck!

madman75

Thanks for everyone's help. All this information will definitely help when I go to add the trim sheet gaphics to my plane.