extra1968

Hi, I'm working on a 1/4 scale sopwithpup from Balsa USA , Assembly manual says to wrap with copper wire and solder the landing gear and wing cabanes. Not sure how and really don't want to mess it up. Please help[&o]

bunsen

Hi

About 2 years ago I built a BALSA USA Nieuport 28. For the landing gear and cabanes did as follows:
1. Make sure that the music wire is clean and go over it with some fine sandpaper. Like 220 or 320 grit.
2. Wrap the wires with a copper wire like SIG SIGSH330 copper wire. Wrap fairly snugly.
3. For soldering I used a small torch so that I could control the heat. You do not want to overheat the joints or the solder will not flow well. I use one of the small Benz O Matic handheld butane torches but there are others.
4. For the solder the last couple of years have been using Stay-Brite Tin-Silver solder and the Stay-Clean Flux. For non-electrical joints. Available from:
Source for Stay-Brite silver solder and flux. Good delivery and price is right.
Knife and Gun Finishing Supplies
http://www.knifeandgun.com/index.htm

The 1/16" diameter works well.

Just be sure to neutralize the flux real well using something like baking soda mixed in water and then wash the joint with lots of clean water to make sure it is clean.

I find this works well.

Good luck
Ray

Dr1Driver

Bunsen told you the proper method. I'll add to make sure the joint is clean of dirt and/or grease. Use PLENTY of flux. Be sure it's bare copper wire. Galvanized or enamel wire will NOT solder.

Dr.1

allanflowers

Do some practice pieces first. Remember the solder will flow TO the heat so you heat on one side and apply the solder on the other. When it reaches the right temperature, the solder will flow in nicely. Then hold it for a second or two and remove the heat.
Practice makes perfect.

extra1968

Thanks alot, I"ll go buy my stuff and start to practice

woodbutcher

In case your getting anything else at Tower, that's where I get mine. I agree with Bunsen, great product.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=RF&search3=Go

scratchonly

You can get a soldering iron type tip for a regular propane torch. Has better heat control than an open flame. Works for me. On some joints you can use a brass tube crimped around the wires. Clean and flux the inside of the tube and the wires; Solder will suck right in.

dr_wogz

My Feedback: (3)

Stripping phone line also works for 'copper' wire. The stuff you put in the wall, solid core stuff.. Done that on a large Cub.

Acetone also to clean up the flux. And let it sit for a few minutes to really cool off. I've burnt a few fingers pciking up a soldered link too quickly!!

Dr1Driver

And if you disturb the joint before it's properly cooled, you may create a "cold" joint. You can tell this by a dull pewter colored or rough surface on the solder. A smooth, bright silvery color indicates a properly soldered joint.

Dr.1

extra1968

Thanks alot guys.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=172]How-To on Soldering[/link]

Scroll down to the part on Landing gear