Fiberglass Filler: Which One
#1
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (9)
Fiberglass Filler: Which One
I have a question about the filler or glazing putty to be used when finish sanding my BT Spifire. I am in the glassing stage of the project and would like to know what is a good filler to be used on top of the fiberglassed surfaces to fill low spots and other imperfections, before you prime and paint. I have heard of the automotive fillers but have not been able to determine which one to use, or whether it matters if it is a two part filler or not.
I have tried the old "red lead" in the past but I am not impressed with it since it has shrunk and cracked[:@]. Also are the poyester fillers safe to use for this? I have heard about polyseter fumes and vapors being bad for you. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanx, Mark
I have tried the old "red lead" in the past but I am not impressed with it since it has shrunk and cracked[:@]. Also are the poyester fillers safe to use for this? I have heard about polyseter fumes and vapors being bad for you. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanx, Mark
#2
My Feedback: (21)
RE: Fiberglass Filler: Which One
This is what is used as the filler over the glass lay-up to fill holes ect.
Don't worry about the "wax" on the label, this is not the wax you are
thinking of....this "wax" keeps the resin from clogging the sandpaper
so much.
You apply a thin coating of the resin, then sand to a finish that is ready
for priming, and painting.
You end up with a finish like this.
FBD.
Don't worry about the "wax" on the label, this is not the wax you are
thinking of....this "wax" keeps the resin from clogging the sandpaper
so much.
You apply a thin coating of the resin, then sand to a finish that is ready
for priming, and painting.
You end up with a finish like this.
FBD.
#3
RE: Fiberglass Filler: Which One
On my last build, I used Duplicolor High Build primer for filling the weave after glassing with West Systems epoxy. Spray a coat of primer, let thouroughly dry, sand back to the surface of the glass. Repeat until low spots and weave is filled. If you have deeper low spots than what can be filled with a couple of coats of primer, you can use automotive spot filler.
Though I have not used poly resins, I've seen where after glassing, a second flow coat is applied and sanded smooth. This is the method described in the Black Arts Building an Fiberglassing videos by Dave Platt.
I'm sure others will share their techniques as well.
Scott
Though I have not used poly resins, I've seen where after glassing, a second flow coat is applied and sanded smooth. This is the method described in the Black Arts Building an Fiberglassing videos by Dave Platt.
I'm sure others will share their techniques as well.
Scott
#4
My Feedback: (1)
RE: Fiberglass Filler: Which One
First of all, any polyester will shrink. It's just the nature of the beast, just like dope. Worked well for what it was originally designed. Poly Fiber has a two part epoxy filler which is extremely light and sands great. It has a lot of body for filling those "Hollywoods" or sways that require some build up and sanding back down. Being epoxy it sticks to anything and it doesn't shrink. You can order it online at http://www.stits.com .
After filling and sanding, there is a water based product for all those sensitive noses out there that fills the pin holes instead of bridging across them. It's called "Smooth Prime". It's catalyzed and impervious to anything.
These products have been used for years in the full scale arena so we don't even have to re-invent the wheel. They have had the same problems with fiberglass and gel coats and manufacturers.
After filling and sanding, there is a water based product for all those sensitive noses out there that fills the pin holes instead of bridging across them. It's called "Smooth Prime". It's catalyzed and impervious to anything.
These products have been used for years in the full scale arena so we don't even have to re-invent the wheel. They have had the same problems with fiberglass and gel coats and manufacturers.