spit test
#2
Senior Member
My Feedback: (16)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Camarillo,
CA
Posts: 3,370
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: spit test
I don't typically spit on the cooling head because if you shoot out a lugi or something, then its going to take longer to evaporate than just saliva. Depending on the engine, it means its at about 220-230 degrees F. But personally, I don't tune engines by temperatures alone. For example, if the engine sounds rich and performs rich, then chances are it is rich. Temperature is great to ensure that the engine isn't about to explode, but it shouldn't be your only deciding factor on tuning. Also, $25 for a infrared temperature guage isn't asking too much.
Also, you don't have to post the same thing four times. It makes people more reluctant to help you. I personally didn't click on the other three threads, but if they are three very closley related questions, then you could just post them all in one thread.
Okay, I just read your other three threads. I don't know what car or truck you have, but generally speaking, if the water boils off in 3-5 seconds, then you are in good range. Any longer and you are too cold, and any shorter and you are too hot. Also, be sure you do this on the top fin of the cooling head and not on the glow plug or the crankcase or something else. As I said before, this is just a generalization. Engines with a higher displacement, more cooling fins and/or larger cooling heads will affect the time it takes the water to boil off. What RC do you have that you are breaking in?
Also, you don't have to post the same thing four times. It makes people more reluctant to help you. I personally didn't click on the other three threads, but if they are three very closley related questions, then you could just post them all in one thread.
Okay, I just read your other three threads. I don't know what car or truck you have, but generally speaking, if the water boils off in 3-5 seconds, then you are in good range. Any longer and you are too cold, and any shorter and you are too hot. Also, be sure you do this on the top fin of the cooling head and not on the glow plug or the crankcase or something else. As I said before, this is just a generalization. Engines with a higher displacement, more cooling fins and/or larger cooling heads will affect the time it takes the water to boil off. What RC do you have that you are breaking in?
#4
Senior Member
My Feedback: (16)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Camarillo,
CA
Posts: 3,370
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: spit test
Whats the air temperature? Humidity? Does it load up after a few seconds of idling? When you punch the throttle after letting it idle, does it cog a little then clear out?
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,337
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: spit test
hey,i have a vh-x5 buggy 1;10 scale and thinking of breaking it in this week.you have any ideas IBrakeForNobody or anyone else about a good temp for the car cnd any tips and good tuning for this piticular car?Thanks
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: BrechinOnt, CANADA
Posts: 378
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: spit test
ORIGINAL: Nitro212
don't what to steal this topic but a question x_x what if it sounds rich but temps are around 160 F or so?
problem might be?
don't what to steal this topic but a question x_x what if it sounds rich but temps are around 160 F or so?
problem might be?
Its rich... Low temps along with the sound of a flooding engine are the big clues, lol. Your on the right track, just lean the HSN a bit at a time, running it up and down the street after every small adjustment till the sound clears up and temps get between 200 and 240 F.