krylon painting/ fuel proofing?
02-27-2007, 11:03 AM
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krylon painting/ fuel proofing?
I've been working on a yellow aircraft f-18 single this winter; I'm thinking about using krylon paint in the spray can. the colors will be dark blue and bright yellow; the same colors as the navy blue angels. the wings / stabs will be covered with fiberglass and than sanded down. I'm using the fiberglassing tech. from art's hobby in the archive's. anyone know what type of paint krylon is?? also what type of primer will work with the krylon paint? and on a final note; any ideas which type of clearcote will work and is fuel proof with krylon? I've used lusterkote paints in the past and have had some good luck with them but alot of times i'll have problems with it a.k.a nozzle plugs, it spits the paint out instead of spraying and leaving a dull finish.
02-27-2007, 11:17 AM
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RE: krylon painting/ fuel proofing?
From what I have read, Krylon is not really fuel proof. You will need to top coat it with a fuel proof clear. But, some have used it and say it is if you let it sit and cure for like a week.. The paint is cheap so buy a can and do some experimenting yourself. If you are looking for spray paint cans I would suggest Perfect/ Cheveron. Most are a polyurathane base paint.
02-27-2007, 10:17 PM
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RE: krylon painting/ fuel proofing?
ORIGINAL: ken graham
I've been working on a yellow aircraft f-18 single this winter; I'm thinking about using krylon paint in the spray can. the colors will be dark blue and bright yellow; the same colors as the navy blue angels. the wings / stabs will be covered with fiberglass and than sanded down. I'm using the fiberglassing tech. from art's hobby in the archive's. anyone know what type of paint krylon is?? also what type of primer will work with the krylon paint?
I use Dupli-Color "High Build" Sandable automotive primer and have had no problems with Krylon going over it. I like the high build formula because it "hides" minor scratches/flaws and, provided it is sanded, adds only a negligible amount of weight (typically, less than one ounce on a 40 - 60 size plane ).
and on a final note; any ideas which type of clearcote will work and is fuel proof with krylon? I've used lusterkote paints in the past and have had some good luck with them but alot of times i'll have problems with it a.k.a nozzle plugs, it spits the paint out instead of spraying and leaving a dull finish.
I have had very good results with Ultracote Clear for fuel proofing.
I have also had very favorable results with the following clear coats: Dupli-Color Acrylic Clear Enamel (Gloss only and available from automotive parts houses ), Krylon ACRYLIC clear in both Gloss and Satin (make certain the can says acrylic ). Both have passed the raw fuel (8 hours or more) and non-yellowing tests (2 - 3 weeks outside with a non protected strip of white for comparison ). With the weather here I have not had an opportunity to subject them to the exhaust stream from an engine yet. (As soon as it warms up a bit I have an engine I need to bench run, so all the test panels will be coming with me ). All indications are there SHOULD BE no problems with the hot exhaust residue - this is based on other acrylic enamels (colored) I have used and tested previously.
Water base polyurethane (Minwax Polycrylic ) does not yellow, and is fuel RESISTANT WITH THE FOLLOWING CAVEATS: 1. Let the polycrylic dry for a MINIMUM of 7 days before exposing to fuel residue. 2. Do not let the residue remain on the plane more than 4 hours. After 4 hours the finish begins to soften.
I have not had an opportunity to test it yet, but various reports indicate Deft Varathane (water base ) has the same properties as the Minwax, but has a harder finish and the residue can remain on the finish for noticeable longer before it needs to be removed.
I've been working on a yellow aircraft f-18 single this winter; I'm thinking about using krylon paint in the spray can. the colors will be dark blue and bright yellow; the same colors as the navy blue angels. the wings / stabs will be covered with fiberglass and than sanded down. I'm using the fiberglassing tech. from art's hobby in the archive's. anyone know what type of paint krylon is?? also what type of primer will work with the krylon paint?
I use Dupli-Color "High Build" Sandable automotive primer and have had no problems with Krylon going over it. I like the high build formula because it "hides" minor scratches/flaws and, provided it is sanded, adds only a negligible amount of weight (typically, less than one ounce on a 40 - 60 size plane ).
and on a final note; any ideas which type of clearcote will work and is fuel proof with krylon? I've used lusterkote paints in the past and have had some good luck with them but alot of times i'll have problems with it a.k.a nozzle plugs, it spits the paint out instead of spraying and leaving a dull finish.
I have had very good results with Ultracote Clear for fuel proofing.
I have also had very favorable results with the following clear coats: Dupli-Color Acrylic Clear Enamel (Gloss only and available from automotive parts houses ), Krylon ACRYLIC clear in both Gloss and Satin (make certain the can says acrylic ). Both have passed the raw fuel (8 hours or more) and non-yellowing tests (2 - 3 weeks outside with a non protected strip of white for comparison ). With the weather here I have not had an opportunity to subject them to the exhaust stream from an engine yet. (As soon as it warms up a bit I have an engine I need to bench run, so all the test panels will be coming with me ). All indications are there SHOULD BE no problems with the hot exhaust residue - this is based on other acrylic enamels (colored) I have used and tested previously.
Water base polyurethane (Minwax Polycrylic ) does not yellow, and is fuel RESISTANT WITH THE FOLLOWING CAVEATS: 1. Let the polycrylic dry for a MINIMUM of 7 days before exposing to fuel residue. 2. Do not let the residue remain on the plane more than 4 hours. After 4 hours the finish begins to soften.
I have not had an opportunity to test it yet, but various reports indicate Deft Varathane (water base ) has the same properties as the Minwax, but has a harder finish and the residue can remain on the finish for noticeable longer before it needs to be removed.
