alternative to lustercoat crap
02-27-2003, 01:03 AM
#1
alternative to lustercoat crap
Are you tired of using lustercoat only to have a bad finish that dosent match anyway. Take a piece of the color you want to the local automotive paint store and have them match it and put your paint into a spray can. Costs about $12 here.
02-27-2003, 01:56 AM
#2
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Krylon!
Greetings.
I've been using Krylon spray paint to match Monokote film for years. Banner red matches Laser red, Cherry red =dark red, no match for tue red, sun yellow=yellow, true blue =royal blue, biege may match monokote but I haven't tried that color. Rustoleum harbor blue enamel matches mono blue mist, requires a lot of mixing so the green doesn't dominate. Black and white Krylon also matches (blacks and whites do vary in shade). Krylon is a laquer and will soften upon contact with glow fuel...requires an overcoat of polyurethane. Krylon=$2 to $3/can...generally $2.47 at Walmart. choose the primer carefully. White, grey or maroon will affect the final result.
Regards,
DGO
I've been using Krylon spray paint to match Monokote film for years. Banner red matches Laser red, Cherry red =dark red, no match for tue red, sun yellow=yellow, true blue =royal blue, biege may match monokote but I haven't tried that color. Rustoleum harbor blue enamel matches mono blue mist, requires a lot of mixing so the green doesn't dominate. Black and white Krylon also matches (blacks and whites do vary in shade). Krylon is a laquer and will soften upon contact with glow fuel...requires an overcoat of polyurethane. Krylon=$2 to $3/can...generally $2.47 at Walmart. choose the primer carefully. White, grey or maroon will affect the final result.
Regards,
DGO
02-27-2003, 05:46 AM
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Lustercoat convert
The first time I tried this stuff I hated it but like so many products it takes technique and trial and error to get good results.
The secret is in being patient with the application by laying up THIN coats at first and steadily building up the finish to a high gloss/no runs final coat.
The colors will match but I have found that with many mono/luster coat combos the BASE COLOR is critical to the final color match.
A good example is metallic plumb. If you use the lustercoat white primer and then apply the paint it will not match the covering it's supossed to, it will be to light. If you apply a coat of back first it and then over coat with the metallic plumb for the final coats it matches perfectly.
For best results test on scrap and the take it out in the sun to duplicate the conditions at the field. Do NOT judge the match under indoor lighting conditions.
Some other colors like missile red are a perfect match when applied over the white primer. You just have to test the paint first to find out what gets you the closest results.
The one thing I like about this stuff is it's tough and is absolutely fuel proof to 20% nitro.
Attatched is a pic of my Citabria Pro, the cowl/struts/pants are all painted with missile red/white lustercoat over the white LK primer.
The secret is in being patient with the application by laying up THIN coats at first and steadily building up the finish to a high gloss/no runs final coat.
The colors will match but I have found that with many mono/luster coat combos the BASE COLOR is critical to the final color match.
A good example is metallic plumb. If you use the lustercoat white primer and then apply the paint it will not match the covering it's supossed to, it will be to light. If you apply a coat of back first it and then over coat with the metallic plumb for the final coats it matches perfectly.
For best results test on scrap and the take it out in the sun to duplicate the conditions at the field. Do NOT judge the match under indoor lighting conditions.
Some other colors like missile red are a perfect match when applied over the white primer. You just have to test the paint first to find out what gets you the closest results.
The one thing I like about this stuff is it's tough and is absolutely fuel proof to 20% nitro.
Attatched is a pic of my Citabria Pro, the cowl/struts/pants are all painted with missile red/white lustercoat over the white LK primer.
02-27-2003, 04:32 PM
#7
alternative to lustercoat crap
I am with mmorg1. I ihave used lustrkote a few times and will never again. I go to the paint shop and have them mix it as well. Never missed that way and no funny color match dance before spraying it to make it work. It just works.
02-27-2003, 07:10 PM
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alternative to lustercoat crap
Lustercoat paints aren't that bad-- properly applied they are a great-looking finish.
But they are not opaque and have to be used with the white Lustercoat primer. And as such, the can be difficult to touch up after a mishap since the damaged are has to be re-primed and the primer and paint blended in.
PPG auto finishes widely available, fuel proof and quite durable. There is an initial investment in compressor, touch-up paint gun and/or airbrush, but if you build a lot, it can be cost-effective.
The CRRC site has a table of PPG-->Monocote/Ultracote matches. I've used Cub Yellow, Dark Red and Royal Blue and they are perfect matches.
http://www.charlesriverrc.org/articl...paintmatch.htm
The Charles River Radio Controllers has one of the best tech sites I've seen, and it is well worth the time to visit frequently.
The address of the home page is http://www.charlesriverrc.org/ .
But they are not opaque and have to be used with the white Lustercoat primer. And as such, the can be difficult to touch up after a mishap since the damaged are has to be re-primed and the primer and paint blended in.
PPG auto finishes widely available, fuel proof and quite durable. There is an initial investment in compressor, touch-up paint gun and/or airbrush, but if you build a lot, it can be cost-effective.
The CRRC site has a table of PPG-->Monocote/Ultracote matches. I've used Cub Yellow, Dark Red and Royal Blue and they are perfect matches.
http://www.charlesriverrc.org/articl...paintmatch.htm
The Charles River Radio Controllers has one of the best tech sites I've seen, and it is well worth the time to visit frequently.
The address of the home page is http://www.charlesriverrc.org/ .
03-03-2003, 05:37 AM
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alternative to lustercoat crap
When i finish a plane with monokote and trim i take a small scrap piece and apply the trim so i get the true color, eg..putting red over black will darken the trim. then i take it down to the autobody shop. they have never let me down with less than a perfect match. i always do a base, coat,clear, to get that sealed glassed in look. i use a touchup autobody gun for the main colors and a airbrush for smaller details.the only thing i dont like is the fumes from this type of paint are mind blurring.
here is a pic of my suk using atomotive paint on the cowl
here is a pic of my suk using atomotive paint on the cowl
03-03-2003, 09:43 PM
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LusterKote
This stuff does require a little patience in sraying and the base. There is no fast way to do a good paint finish. The base must be smooth an free of flaws for the smooth look and this also take time and patience.
Allways heat the can up in hot water if your temps are bleow 70 degrees. I find the srpay nozzles to be less then desirable. I email them about this and they assured me that a new nozzle was in the works. Make sure your finger tip does not ride over the top or the overspray will drip in the spray steam and cause a big glob. And keep a few spare nozzles soaking in Acetone and change them regularly while spraying.
To achieve a smooth finish I lightly wet sand with 1000 grit to get out any of the orange peel and mask ridge then hand rub the paint with polishing compound. Followed a good sealer like Maguires paint sealer then with several coats of a good carnuba wax for a nice finish.
Or you can clear coat with a good PPG automotive for that deep glossy fiinish. I hand rub rather then clear to keep the weight down. To each his own.
The best can spry is made by Century 21. If LusterKote would use that nozzle it would be great stuff to work with. I use the Century 21 or LusterKote primer (white) and they are both campable when completely dry with the each other.
OR get a compressor, finish srpay gun and have you colors custom matched or buy them from Radio South already premixed and in smaller quantities.
This plane was done this way, Painted the fuse and matched perfectly. The wings and stab/rudder are MonoKoted.
Wayne
Allways heat the can up in hot water if your temps are bleow 70 degrees. I find the srpay nozzles to be less then desirable. I email them about this and they assured me that a new nozzle was in the works. Make sure your finger tip does not ride over the top or the overspray will drip in the spray steam and cause a big glob. And keep a few spare nozzles soaking in Acetone and change them regularly while spraying.
To achieve a smooth finish I lightly wet sand with 1000 grit to get out any of the orange peel and mask ridge then hand rub the paint with polishing compound. Followed a good sealer like Maguires paint sealer then with several coats of a good carnuba wax for a nice finish.
Or you can clear coat with a good PPG automotive for that deep glossy fiinish. I hand rub rather then clear to keep the weight down. To each his own.
The best can spry is made by Century 21. If LusterKote would use that nozzle it would be great stuff to work with. I use the Century 21 or LusterKote primer (white) and they are both campable when completely dry with the each other.
OR get a compressor, finish srpay gun and have you colors custom matched or buy them from Radio South already premixed and in smaller quantities.
This plane was done this way, Painted the fuse and matched perfectly. The wings and stab/rudder are MonoKoted.
Wayne
