BoschPlugs

I've always wanted a nitro RC car and I've finally decided it's time to get up and buy my first one!

What I want- I want something quick, fun, UPGRADABLE, and a good beginner car.

I've been looking at the S-Maxx, but have become detered since it's only 2WD. I'd be swapping motors in the future, (If possible, the TRX 3.3) and wondering if I could also convert it into 4WD?

Would I be better off buying the T-Maxx and doing an engine swap? If so, which T-Maxx should I buy?

Urghh.. Please give me some insight! [sm=drowning.gif]

drevil

My Feedback: (5)

I'm not sure I understand what you're asking. You say you want the 3.3 engine, but then say that if you buy the Tmaxx you'll need to swap engines. Why not just buy the 3.3 Tmaxx from the beginning?

You can definitely convert the Smaxx to 4wd. Tower Hobbies sells the conversion kit for $41
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDVB3&P=7

I don't know enough about the Tmaxx and Smaxx to say whether it's better to buy one or the other.

BoschPlugs

Sorry, I should have made it clearer. Basically, I don't have big paychecks and need to upgrade little by little. [sm=red_smile.gif]

Oh, nice! Would that make it the same 4WD system as the T-Maxx's have?


Thanks for your quick responce!

Foxy

Savage X RTR, in a heartbeat. Great beginner car, big block engine, TONS of upgrades (maybe more than any other RC car in history). Good value for money. Indestructible. I race in various classes, so I'm used to the best of the best (see my profile to see my models, just click on my name). When I wanted something to 'bash', so that I didn't have to risk cars with thousands of $s in them, I went for a savage, and it's everything I expeted, honestly, after some minor teething issues, I'm jumping it around all over the place. Landed it from 2m on it's roof several times the other day, trying to do backflips and eventually the receiver died. Car and chassis fine though after repeated HARD impacts. Always gathers a crowd of all ages too.

Rs43EVOman

I would defiently second the reccomendation n the Savage X RTR. It's a great truck, and awesome for someone just starting out. You probably dont know much about nitro cars (no offense), and alot of begginers have the most trouble with the break-in in particular.

This is a long and in-depth comprehensive tutorial on breaking in an engine. There are a few steps in here (IE:Heating engine before starting), that aren’t necessary unless for that example your engine is tight enough you cant turn it over with whatever starting system your using. ALSO, some people recommend to many beginners not to get a temp gun, and that temps don’t make a difference, people, who say that aren’t taking in the fact that its takes quite a bit of time to learn by sound and feel when your engine is running correctly, and many beginners can’t do this. Having a temp gun makes things way way easier, and for break-in they are practically necessary, even for someone with a lot of experience.

Before Starting: Apart from some pretty rare chance your engine needles should be set from the factory, but that’s not where you want to break the engine in. You wanna turn the HSN (High-Speed Needle) in around 1/16th of a turn, and the LSN (Low-Speed Needle) also 1/16th of turn. Remember it’s just a very small turn. Ok, now when your breaking in an engine a lot of people run it around a little rich, and slowly like your supposed to, but they don’t realize even though they might have turned the needles in just a bit there engine is still going to be running way below the temperature needed to get the metals to seat correctly. This would be the around, or a bit lower then the temperature your engine will be running later, so right now you want your engine to be running in the 200-220 range. To make sure that your engine reaches the correct temperatures while still being run slowly, a really god way is to use some aluminum tape and wrap some around the engine head, covering about 3/4th of the cooling fins. Now make sure you fully charge your glow igniter, check to make sure you’ve got a good plug, and get anything else ready to start the car.

First Tank: The first time you try and start your engine you may notice that your starter box simply cant turn over the engine, that’s because a lot of engines come with the piston and sleeve so tight from the factory, especially if your using a lees then perfect starter box, and the engine is a High-end racing engine. So grab a hairdryer (or even a heat gun if you happen to own one), and use it to start warming up the engine. Keep checking the engine temp as you warm it up, and don’t let it get past around 200. Now the engine should be loosened up enough to start. You wanna start it up, and leave it on the starter box, making sure your wheels are off the ground. I like to let the car idle for around 1 minute or 2, and then I pull the throttle in just a bit so that the engine RPM’s go up a bit, (you can even just do this with the throttle trim on your radio if you don’t wanna have to sit there holding down the throttle on your radio). Do this until the tank is ½ empty, and shut down the engine. NOW HERE IS SOMTHING THAT CANNOT BE FORGOTTEN THROUGHTOUT THE ENTIRE BREAK-IN PROCESS: Every time you shut your engine down you must take off the glow plug, and by turning the flywheel with your hand make sure the piston is at BDC (the point where, when looking through the glow-plug hole the piston is as far away from you as possible. Then let the engine sit until it COMPLETELY cools down. Repeat this process twice total, you should run 1 tank of fuel.

Tank 2-7: Ok, now you’re ready to actually run the car. Fill the tank up, and again if needed heat the engine a bit with the hair dryer. Start the engine, let it run for just a minute or so revving a little bit more then idle. Take it off the box and put it on the ground and start running it. Now when breaking in a motor you never wanna pull the throttle past 1/2th. You don’t wanna make quick pulls of the throttle or brake. Slowly and smoothly rev the car up, hold it for a second and smoothly let out. You wanna do this on Pavement, every couple minutes check the engine temps with our temp gun. Make sure your running in the range of around 200-220, if you’re running the car correctly and it isn’t reaching those temps cover up more of the cooling head with aluminum tape. If it’s too hot then take off a bit. Run the car until there’s barely anything left in the tank (don’t run it all the way empty), and shut it off. AGAIN DON’T FORGET Every time you shut your engine down you must take off the glow plug, and by turning the flywheel with your hand make sure the piston is at BDC (the point where, when looking through the glow-plug hole the piston is as far away from you as possible. Then let the engine sit until it COMPLETELY cools down. Repeat this whole process until you’ve ran the car 7 tanks including the first tank you did with the car on the box.

Tank 8-10: Ok now before each one of the next 3-4 tanks you wanna lean out the needles just a bit, and run the car like you have been, slowly, checking the temps because as you lean the car out you might have to remove a little bit of aluminum tape from the head.. AGAIN DON’T FORGET Every time you shut your engine down you must take off the glow plug, and by turning the flywheel with your hand make sure the piston is at BDC (the point where, when looking through the glow-plug hole the piston is as far away from you as possible. Then let the engine sit until it COMPLETELY cools down. Keep doing this until the car seems to be running at peak performance. This USUALLY takes 3-4 tanks, but could take 1-2 more then that.

CONGRATULATIONS YOU’VE BROKEN IN YOUR NITRO ENGINE.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

One word SAVAGE!

BoschPlugs

Thanks to everyone for their advice, especially Rs43EVOman.

If I go with a RTR car, I must still purchase a stick and charger, correct?

I think I'm going to start off with the S-Maxx, due to it's affordability, and availability. (They sell it right down the road!) How do I know which stick/charger to buy for this? Any reccomendations? Also, which gas would be good to run it with?

Is this all I need? Stick/charger, gas, AA's?

Again... [sm=drowning.gif]

Nick2618

The s-maxx has a ez start system so all you need to run is a 7.2v batter stick, charger for battery, 12 aa, and fuel

Also do not forget to buy after run oil to put in engine to protect it from rust. Also the tires might not come preguled so you might need glue.

Suprachrgd82

Hows this:

I am selling my T-Maxx. $275=shipping just add igniter & fuel
(http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=29461)

I am quite meticulous about the condition of my cars. (http://www.rcpics.net/media.php?sear...arch&limit=100)

It was built to be virtually indestructible, and relatively fast.

Since the photo above, I have redone the Maxx with:
Picco XP15
Integy bulkheads (blue)
Integy Braces (blue)
RPM wide suspension arms (blue)
Titanium Tie rods
Revo wheels & tires
CVEC Pipe
RPM skid plates (black)
RPM bumpers
AE shox
NiMH receiver pack

[email protected]