dight1

I want to get a savy but i may as well just blow that idea right out he door since my dad is against me getting a 2nd rc, and thinks its a waste of money to invest in. i dont but what ever. What is a good summer/winter project to do with a maxx. I want to make a absolutely insane maxx.

My budget is around 1000$. Thats a good ammount for now. Heres what i have right now.
Integy arms all around, 4 shock conversion, well not actually just really stiff shocks.
Engine trx 3.3 18/72 gearing i think.

I want a different radio thats for sure.

PEOPLE WANNA HELP ME OUT HERE?

Thanks!
Mitch.

rcnitrohead

So no Savage? Well first id get rid of all of the alum[&o] Time to go to sleep.. Ill help out tommorow[8D]

[]TEX[]

try ebay, search tmaxx

originalspacerob

if you want a really good controller take a look at nomadio. I have had mine for about 2 months now and really like it. I have the sensor and it came with all the sensors. temp, speed, and voltage. Its really comfortable and has more options than you might ever need.

dight1

Radio i think a futaba 3pm fast 2.4ghz system.

What is a good bb set up and servos and other things?

arisking

This thread is going to go nowhere I bet.

-Josh-

rchotrodz

I think this is a good list of things to get...

aluminum front and rear bulk heads
nomadio react radio
better steering servo and throttle servo
os 18tm motor
cvds and center cvds
carbon fiber disc brake or better
hump pack for the receiver

RPM:
a arms
bulk head braces
shock towers and body posts
front and rear bumpers
full skid plates

Robinson:
gears for the diffs
spur gear
that is all I can think of I am not sure what the total of all of this would be but I guess it all depends on where you get it from...

BrendanS

I wouldn't go aluminum for the bulks, they stock bulks are cheap. Unless you are constantly breaking your bulkheads than stay stock. You don't need cvd's if you run an OS.18TM, it would be a good investment though. The Nomadio radio is nice, but a little pricey. Even though you have $1000 to blow I would still get the DX2.0 or the Futaba one. I would only get the RPM arms out of the list from RPM. If you do the Steve Slayden Skid Plate Mod than you shouldn't need the skids. The bulkhead braces are nice, but not really necessary. The shock towers and body posts are a big no no because they flex easily and will result in bent shock shafts. Also because the have only 1 mounting position. The bumpers don't really do much but wouldn't be a bad upgrade either. Here is the list I would get. It adds up to around $930

Ofna Picco .26 Engine 189.99
Ofna Picco .26 T-MAXX Engine Mount 18.39
Spektrum DX2.0 Radio 154.99
Hitec 5995 Ultra High Torque Digital Servo 114.99
Airtronics 94359 for throttle 114.99
Crimefighter MTR Tires 48.00
Kyosho 17mm Standard Offset Ten Spoke (4) 17.49
Fast Lane Machine Chassis 74.95
Tony’s Hex Screw Kit (T-Maxx 2.5) 27.99
RPM Axle Carriers w/Bearings Dye able T/E-Maxx (2) 23.59
THS CVD's 50.00
Traxxas FOC 10.19
9.5 Violator 145CC Fuel Tank 12.99
Posts and Spacers Fuel Tank Ultra 4.79
MIP Clutch Shoes 13.79
Roto-Start (AKA Shaft Start System) 29.99
Shaft Start Backplate (fits picco/trx2.5) 12.99
RPM Arms (4) 40.00
Ofna 17MM Hex hubs 25.00
Integy Hex Drivers 24.00-40.00

$1009.11

Those are all useful upgrades. But to top it off a wingmount and wing would look really nice on that. Those are good if you race btw...

pinky2252s

see it went NO WERE JK!!!!!!!!!

aznherb36

I dont know about the integy hex drives since they are known for bad products. I went with Thunder Tiger ball drives + Tonys Screws and it's worth every cent. Gets every screw out no problem and quick b.c the top part of every hex drive has a compartment that you can throw screws in, and that makes the end of it turn so you can push down with your palm and turn with your fingers.

I got the FLM chassis with the OFNA violator tank, works great but the one problem I found was you need to jimmy rig something up but it's real simple, and have the tank as close in as possible so the body doesnt touch it.

Ballistic Batteries have great hump packs and deals for the t-maxx.


when you get a new engine, I suggest you take it apart, flush it, put some Boca bearings in there and remove the stock bearings

I didnt touch my diff. till I found problems with it. After I did I went with UE Spyder 6 diff. with alum case to hold in the silicon oil. love these diff

dight1

i have hex drivers i forget what kind they are but they get the job done. I have a roto start already. Odd. I do have alum integy bulkheads.

Is a fail safe worth the cash? This is not going to be raced, Well it will against my friends savy's, then i will race.

What are some good shocks, and good diffs? i notice the stock diffs break easy. Any other things i should get?

for servos im leaning towards the hitec 6545mg servo 130oz steering, and for throttle, 645mg 110oz. What kind of receiver chargable should i get?

keep the things coming!

Thanks.
Mitch.

pinky2252s

you can get metal gears for your diff and a venom fail save would work and all you have to do is plug itt in and adjust and GO GO GO

BrendanS

I know integy makes bad products, but do you really think that you will be breaking these? Honestly, its a set of hex drivers. I know the quality counts and stuff, but these hex drivers are good quality. It's kind of hard to break hex drivers, unless you purposely try to.

As for shocks, if you don't race other than against somebody else and you bash a lot then I would go for the big bores. They are really nice shocks. I race on the other hand so I run the Ofna Buggy Shocks. They are off the 9.5's jammin x1-cr, ultra lx etc. etc.. They are really nice shocks, specially for racing. They are the exact same as the UE Racer X Shocks. So go ebay and don't buy the shocks through UE. They charge around $80.00, I got it for $36.95 for all 4 front shocks.

weez440

instead of blowing that much on a maxx buy my used savage from me for 275 dollars i only live like an hour from you i go up to canada all the time.

aznherb36

they are not entirely the same i will tell you that.

dight1

haha, whats all done up to your savy, a link?

BrendanS

dude they are the EXACT same shocks. How are they different other than when you buy from UE you get different springs and the 6mm stand offs...


"In the beginning there was the Traxxas stock shock, then came the Associated T-Maxx shock set. From there we went to RPM dual stage pistons, Progressive piggybacks and hardcoated shafts.

A new beast enters the arena.

The Ofna Threaded body SuperShock. I convinced them to import a few for me to test after seeing them at the Chicago Hobby show in '01. I received them and had to make some special standoffs since the upper mount is Ø6mm instead of the Traxxas standard of Ø5mm." - from Robin himself...