tim thompson

Hey! I am about ready to shoot my wing B-25! I cannot get the amount of throw on the rudders I need. Servo binds due to all the cranks and cable needed to do it. Can I switch to a 6v 1800ma pack to increase the torque?? Help twinman

Tim

warbirdz1

Tim....Not fully acquanted with the "Wing" B-25 but I am flying a "Z" B-25..........How much Rudder throw are you looking for?.....Remember theres 2 rudders.....in the prop wash as well.....the B-25 is quite Rudder sensative and the only time I use much rudder is on T/O and landing...keep in mind that sufficient rudder throw is required for an engine out condition....If it were my plane I would fix the reason why the rudders bind...not just change a servo or battery pack.....just my .02 cents worth......Bill......

twinman

My Feedback: (2)

I must agree with warbirdz1. Please do not go to more powerful batteries or servos to correct a binding situation. This is a bandaid that will bit you. Correct the problem and yes, I think that good rudder throw is a plus on any twin,and more so on smaller multi's such as yours as they react quicker, so please get this fixed.
Good Luck,
Twinman

BOMBERGUY

My Feedback: (5)

Tim,

Get rid of all the cables and cranks and other crap and mount a pair of Hitec HS-125's in the horiz. stab. I did this on my Stafford b-24 and I've got no problems. Just my 2 cents worth

Bomberguy

tim thompson

How much throw on each rudder is needed?

Thanks Tim

BOMBERGUY

My Feedback: (5)

Tim,

Get a much rudder as you can get, if you lose an engine, you'll need all you can get. This happened on my B-24 and it was a bear to turn. I had the same problem with the rudders and all the bellcranks and linkages back to the servo. Three days before it's first flight I took out all that stuff and insatlled the HS-125's and had no problems with throws or slop in the rudders.

Bomberguy

tim thompson

I currently have 1" travel in each direction. The stab is foam and thin. How small are the hitechs?? Do I have enough travel??

Tim

BOMBERGUY

My Feedback: (5)

Tim,

I think the Stafford called for 7/8" rudder travel, not sure, something like that. I'll check when I get home. I'm putting duel rates on the rudders and ailerons in case of engine outs to make it easier to turn.

The Hitec servos are wing servos, very thin. I think they are .39'' in depth. You can look up the specs. at www.servocity.com . They fit in the stab on the B-24 and you don't see anything but the arm and linkage to the rudder horn. I'll check and see if I have a picture of one of them mounted in the stab and send it to you.

Bomberguy

nchrome

Tim I have a Wing B-25 and I'm ready for my maiden flight. On the rudders I put Highteck HS 81 servo in the horizontal stab for each rudder. I have plenty of throw and don't have to put up with the cables binding or the extra weight. Also my tail feathers are detachable for easier transport. I'm also currently working on a stand that will let me put the wings on the stand and then the fuse. Cause I just don't like the idea of laying the plane on its back to mount the wing then trying to turn it over without loosing my balance or dinging a wing or dropping the plane on its nose or something. Also all my guns on the nose tail and waist can be removed for transport. Also have mechanical brakes and funional air cooler flaps that work with the throttles. Cann't wait for the weather to get warm for my maiden flite. I also have Mag 52 four-strokers on her too. Drop me a line on your bomber love to see some pictures of it also I may be able to send you some of mine.

kingair41

My Feedback: (13)

hello, I have a wing B-25 and have about 20 flights on her. The throws are about one inch either way and I have two hitec hs-81 servos mounted in the horizontal stab. I always try to keep all linkage as short as possible even if it compromises the scale looks of the model. I sport fly and want to enjoy the art of flying and building scale twins. Their complicating enough so try to keep it as simple as possible.

tim thompson

Could you tell me about your experince, any problems how fast she is. I have saito 80's in mine. Taxi tests proved satisfactory am waiting for a gyro for engine out help. Am in no hurry to ruin her!!

kingair41

My Feedback: (13)

well knowing how time consuming she is is to build take your time and be absolutely sure you have everything as right as possible. my setup consists of setting each engine separately. Then start them and listen to how close they are synced together. What I mean by synced is not how close together they run BUT how close they follow together when you power up either on take off or on an aborted landing attempt. If you have to go around for another approach you want the engines to respond as close together as possible. A twin will fly fine with unsynced engines but can be a hand full if she has a surprise for you when one engines lags considerably behind the other when full power is needed for a go around. I use approx. 10 degrees of flaps on takeoff. Be prepared for a steep departure. flaps pitch the nose up. Control the departure with elevator. Retract the gear then slowly retract the flaps. My 25 flys at 1/2-3/4 throttle on asp .75s with 10-8 3 bladed props.Your saitos will be fine. Full throttle low passes are a sight to see with a victory roll at the end of the pass. Land with flaps as the flaps stabilize the airspeed and allow the plane to slow to a nice approach. If at all possible fly the aircraft solo in the air, that way you can hear the engines and their conditions as the flight proceeds. Test fly with a partner you can trust to help with trim and any other assistance needed. You'll be plenty busy. On your first flight leave the gear down to make it easy on yourself in the event of an emergency landing unless you're an accomplished and multi task flier. After a couple of flights you'll start to see how she handles and a lot of fun to fly. Landing without flaps is very fast so be prepared. I like to approach high with full flaps and descend steeply and hit my spot without any speed increase. It's awesome. I have landing lites as well. Here to help

tim thompson

thanks, I am a competent pilot flying warbirds, scale civilian, bipes, and helis. This is my first twin and after all taxi tests were ok I got on line and started to hear all the horror stories so I have decided to put a gyro on the rudder and get a little more time flying warbirds. I plan on also adding a second battery pack. Can I y these together or would a electronic switcher work better? I live in Saginaw Mi and frankly anyone here with twin experience is so full of themselves I wont ask them for help. I am also training to be a full scale pilot. I refuse to quit rc to fully fund the other so full scale is going slow!

Tim
989-797-3645

tim thompson

Forgot this! I ahve her covered in chrome monokote with antenna inside the fuse. 2 inches stick out in the back. I have no glitches on range or taxi tests

kingair41

My Feedback: (13)

Tim, I just got back from the field and I had my first engine out with the 25. It handled fine with rudder input to the point that I wasn't sure if I had an engine out or not. I throttled down to about 1/3 throttle and brought her in. I'm always ready with the rudder stick in the event of an engine suddenly going out to lunch on me. If an engine starts to sound off throttle down to help prevent it from possibly leaning out and bring it down. My cause for an engine out was the carb came loose on the crankcase. I tightened it up and logged 4 more flights. As far as a second battery pack, sound advise. One problem with nicads is they can't be Y'd together reliably without an electronic switch to control them. Nicads in one pack have a tendency to want to charge the bad cell or cells in the other pack draining the good pack without the pilot knowing it. By adding a battery backer unit 2 packs can be used confidently. The unit monitors the primary pack and with an led will show the pilot that the battery is in operation. If the battery should develop a bad cell (usually it shorts out leaving only 3 cells in a 4.8 volt pack to run the show, bad idea) the unit will switch to the backup pack and change led to show that the secondary pack is in use. At which time find the cause of the failure and correct it. To the best of my knowledge chrome monokote does not have any metal in it to be cause of alarm. I glassed mine and painted it brown and sand and my antenna is totally inside with nothing sticking out. All my aircraft are that way. I use to live in Grand Rapids myself. And I did pursue my training as a single engine land pilot myself. Alot of fun but expensive. Good Luck.

kingair41

My Feedback: (13)

tim
when is your bomber going to take to the air?

nchrome

kingair41 your bird looks just fine to another Wing B-25 owner. Want to test fly mine so bad that I can taste it but grimlens just won't leave me and my bird alone. So I guess I'll just have to work through them one by one. Mine is done up in Light sand,dark brown,and light blue on the belly. My aircooler flaps are just working just fine without failure. They are tied into the throttle electronicaly that way if they do fail it won't interfear with the throttles. At the back of the nuesel is where I'm able to refuel my bird and on the real B-25 this is where the fuel tank vent is. I also made a wing support that way I wont have to do that dreaded balancing act to keep from dropping my bird after I have put the wings on her. I just lay the wings on the stand then the fuse on its side on the wings hook up the wires and air tubes then put the fuse on the wings and then the wing bolts. Then all you have to do is lift the plane and set her on the ground without haveing to turn her over. So far this works out just fine for me.

tim thompson

kingair, I am waiting to get a little more warbird single experience. I spent over 2500.00 on this and want it to live a while! I will put a backup 1400ma pack in the nose and a gyro hooked to the rudder. Once school is out in june I plan on testing all systems at home. When I get perfect engine runs I will take to field to fly