Jake Ruddy

My Feedback: (40)

Not sure on the forum placement.. but have a question

Have a PT models 26x10 drilled for a ZDZ 80.. that uses the inside holes on the drill guide. I want to drill it for the outside holes in the middle of the small holes only out further on the guide.

What do you think about that? There is a pretty good gap but I am unsure about that many holes in a prop.

COmments?

mistydee0

My Feedback: (103)

Sinergy,
I would not feel comfortable with all those holes in the hub on a engine that had that much power.
Is the price of the prop worth the damage it could cause???? Only one mans opinion.

Mistydee0

Jake Ruddy

My Feedback: (40)

Well that's why I am asking before I do it.. I am unsure

I could just drillit and slightly lengthen the holes as well..

mistydee0

My Feedback: (103)

If you a gambler, throw the dice.

Jake Ruddy

My Feedback: (40)

Haha not exactly the answer I was looking for.. I hate the fact I cant get props locally or I would just got buy one.. takes 4 or 5 days to get here

Ih82crash

Another option is to fill the holes with Epoxy mixed with a little sawdust. Then you can drill your new holes and save the dice.

buck1856

My Feedback: (49)

Maybe using a dowel rod that would have to be lightly driven in the holes then cut flush with both sides and a drop or two of thin ca put on both sides on the plugs should work fine.thats what i would do.

Jake Ruddy

My Feedback: (40)

well I just filled it with straight epoxy... should be ok for under 10 flights... just give her a real good balance.

Thanks for the suggestions!

foamcut

My Feedback: (40)

I use JB Weld and a dowel to fill old holes and re-drill as necessary.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Wood filling wood is still the best method for filling old holes in a prop when drilling new ones. It's too easy to use either a wood dowel that fits the existing holes or making the holes the size of the dowel. This method has worked forever. After inserting the dowel simply add thin CA to secure it. Cut flush and start drilling the new holes with no worries. Straight epoxy is brittle and will shatter and fall out under vibration stresses.

ljones5000

My Feedback: (2)

I'm guessing the PT prop is carbon fiber. Would that make a difference when filling with a wooden dowel?

If it were mine, I think I'd fill the old holes with a mixture of 30 minute epoxy and Great Planes pro-milled fiberglas.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

You're right. PT is composite. Wood dowels work best in wood props. Similar expansion and contraction of like materials. If the hub of the PT is a wood center then I would go with wood dowel. If it's full composite I would use milled glass fiber, preferably the 1/32" dimensioned stuff, and a high end epoxy, mixed extra thick. One thing I would not use is micro balloons and epoxy. Too brittle. Same with straight epoxy.

Jake Ruddy

My Feedback: (40)

Well I used high-end epoxy - straight.. compressed and filled from both sides. Its epoxy my buddy uses at work on full scale stuff.

It is a CF prop... I was wishing I had my BVM aeropoxy handy but didnt have it with me

I will be order props on Monday so this is was a temp fix to try a 26x10 instead of a 27x10.

Thanks for the input... I will know for next time!

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

The BVM Aeropoxy is very similar to milled galss fiber and epoxy. Not quite as dense as when you mix your own but close enough for government work.