i8tweety

My Feedback: (11)

The 18 tooth bell is from ofna. While I special ordered them from my local hobby shop 5 or 6 years ago for use in a couple of experimental cars, Tower Hobbies still sells them.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBL96&P=7

DSA.308

My Feedback: (6)

Tweety what buggy are you running? Does anyone know if alot of traction can be gained by swaping out the stock diffs on my Mugen or are the stock diffs pretty good?

i8tweety

My Feedback: (11)

I run 3 kyoshos and 2 GS Storm Pros with an RB C4 and 4 Rossi HPS (higher torque, lower rpm version of the black magic).

Here's my experience with swapping out the diffs (which is what I did with one of my Kyoshos).

If you only want to install 1 torsen diff, you should put it in the center. It helps regulate the power split between front and rear. In high bite conditions, it doesn't have to do much as you have traction both front and rear. In low bite conditions (low traction), it doesn't let all the power go to the front tires (similar feel as using thick oil in the center differential). Overall, it allows your car to accelerate a little harder (and helps reduce premature front tire wear).

The next torsen diff you would install is up front. On high speed turns, it helps prevent the inside front tire from ballooning up too much (as it transfers some of the power to the outside tire unlike a regular diff).

Overall performance gains? You get a little better acceleration coming out of corners. Are they worth the money? I am not exactly what you would call a budget racer, but there are much better ways to throw money at an 1/8 scale (like tires, shock springs, engine rebuilds (each diff cost as much as a complete rebuild for an OS RZV-01B), etc.

neoracer

hey everyone-

What radios do you all use? I'm considering either a JR R1 or Futaba 3PK. Any thoughts..... I would also like to run digital servos. Any recommendations on torque and transition time on steering/throttle?

DSA.308

My Feedback: (6)

Using JR-R1 PCM with Hitec digital 5945 rated at .13SEC/60Degrees and torque is 180.53OZIN. Super fast. Super strong, super expensive.....I think JR is a GREAT radio, they arent dumb......there is a reason why it costs more than the Futaba 3PK. I havent had a single radio glitch that resulted in a run-away car yet. Only takes one time for that to happen and say good=-bye to your car!

jbjustin33415

I use a Futaba FM T2PEKA in my on-road racers, and a HiTec FM Lynx with a HiTec HS-925MG for steering and Cirrus CS-60 for throttle in my off-road buggy. Dont know too much about digital servos, but I know you need at least a 6 volt receiver pack.

DSA.308

My Feedback: (6)

Futaba stuff is the best of the best, but I have been having very good luck with Hitec digital servos. They do require more power, and they do draw more current to run properly. Good RX battery packs are needed, but they work GREAT. A non-digital I also have very good luck with is the HS625MG which are only $40.00 each. They are rated at: .15sec/ 94.43 OZIN. Good specs and really good price, havent broke one yet and they have metal gears.

grampi

Futaba is the best of the best? I don't know about that. Personally, I think Airtronics and JR make just as good, if not better radio equipment, but that's just my opinion.

i8tweety

My Feedback: (11)

I've had a couple Futaba 3PDs, an Airtronics M8, JR R1, KO Mars, and KO Mars R. In my opinion, the Futaba radios, while top knotch, had fit and finish problems (battery door had to be held on by an elastic, velcro to keep the door closed). The JR felt cheap (the plastic halves of the hand grip didn't line up well and the molded in hand grips didn't fit well in my hand). The airtronics was the most balanced but was poor in quality and somewhat lacking in features. The Mars and Mars R are my current radios of choice. They have excellent features (their downsides are being cumbersome to tweak settings, along with balance before adding the drop down modules).

grampi

I've never noticed that about Airtronics radios. Between car and airplane radios over the last 20 years, I've had somewhere between 12-15 Airtronics radios, I've never had a single problem with any of them. I've also noticed they seem to have quite a few features considering the price. I would say they make some of the best radios, and in my opinion, better than Futaba, but opinions vary.

DSA.308

My Feedback: (6)

I have a M8 that I had a run away vehicle with on day # 1 with it. Grand am and Mugen MBX-XR collision. Wasnt pretty. I have used it since and it seems to work fine but I can never trust it with my expensive cars anymore. I agree with Grampi, JR is as good or better than anything available.

i8tweety

My Feedback: (11)

I was a long time airtronics user for my cars and planes. I've had several (and still have some) XL2P and CS2P radios. When the M8 came out, I bought the first one my local shop received. Functionally it was fine. The case developed stress cracks in various spots on the handle, above the battery tray, and around most of the screws. The battery tray melted while charging batteries.

jbjustin33415

Ive had the battery tray melt when I was charging batteries, with one of those cheapo Airtronics radios. It started a small fire on my carpet and toasted the radio. Since then I went to Hitec radio, and I am just now trying out the Futaba radio in my on-road.

neoracer

Thanks for all the reply's!!

I think I'll wait to get the JR R1. I'm going to replace both my steering and throttle with JR Z8550 and Z8450, respectively. It's my understanding JR servos always center and never having any problems. Plus they have 3 year warranties on everything.

DSA.308

My Feedback: (6)

Good choice.

Its a great day here in Denver today, sun shinning bright, and dry parking lots. I spent last night charging all the RX/TX battery packs and my starter box, glow plug etc. I have to finish breaking in my TGR Fantom and do some full throttle passes on the Mugen. Going to be a great day.

hughjay

no, u idiots, the best engine is the OFNA/Picco .21 O-1 comp. BP, i have a Mugen MBX4-XR and i run it with that, it't the fastest i;ve every tried

DSA.308

My Feedback: (6)

I am going to stick with the .21 OSRZVO1B(P) it runs great and it won the 2002 ROAR Nationals, and costs sub $300. Besides...I have two of them- both NIB, and they both have complete clutch assemblys on them already so they are just "drop in ready". Argue with that! Hard to dispute the winner of the entire 2002 1/8 buggy ROAR national event where any ROAR legal engine, at ANY PRICE could have been used. Yes that one too.

speedracer0_7

i've recently swithed backed 2 offroad from onroad and think offroad is cheaper, mostly tires and motor wise. onroad 1/8 cars seem 2 be about the same price as offroad, around 450-900 range and offroad seems more fun and challenging