flyertoo

SPECIFICATIONS

GREAT SPORT PLANE FOR THOSE MOVING UP FROM A TRAINER OR LEANRING AEROBATICS
EXPLORER-L / WITH SYMMETRICAL WING.

Received my Explorer-L on 11-23-07. When I unpacked it looked great. No wrinkles, no shipping damage to either the box or the model. Took it out of the box and let it set in my shop for twenty days until I could get to it. After setting, there were multiple wrinkles, which I ironed out using an iron on the edges and a heat gun. Used a wet damp cloth to seal it to the wood, per the instructions in the box. (Wrinkles were about the same as my Electro Telemaster)

Cost of the airplane, from [link=http://www.texasrcplanes.com]texasrcplanes.com[/link] , was $65.00 shipping $14.00
Cost of batteries, from [link=http://www.rcevproducts.com]rcevproducts.com[/link] :
1. 3s1p, 4000mah, $85.00
2. 4s1p, 4000mah, $120.00
Cost of the HXT35-48-B motor, from [link=http://www.unitedhobbies.com]unitedhobbies.com[/link] , was $25.95
Cost of the HW_P40A ESC, from [link=http://www.unitedhobbies.com]unitedhobbies.com[/link], was $37.25
Cost of the APC 13x8 prop 4.25
Total 147.45
This is a very inexpensive price for complete arf including motor, esc, prop and adapters.

A 3s battery flies very well can do loops from level flight. Gives the plane about 45-degree rate of climb. Mild acrobatics.
A 4s battery turns it into a rocket. Actually to fast for my limited abilities but maybe I will grow into it.
I did not count the cost of the batteries in the total cost of the airplane because I use these same batteries in my other airplanes.

6ft Telemaster Electro*** Explorer-40*** Hobbico SuperStar EP*** RCM Funster

I will respond to some of the problems I found while reading on several forums:


1. The main wheels are located to far forward on the model.
a. I found this not to be a problem when the CG was put where the manufacturer specified.


2. The rudder push rod exit on the wrong side of the model.
a. The rudder and the nose wheel steering both exit on the left hand side of the model so no steering problems where encountered.(see photo#6)
b. Directions specify to use wooden push rods but I used Sullivan Gold-n-Cables (see photo #05)


3. Elevator jointer is so weak that it will snap at a touch.
a. The jointer looked weak to me as well.
b. So I reinforced it with music wire by notching the elevator and epoxying the music wire into the elevator. Something I always do with this type of elevator.(see photo #1,2)


4. Tail feathers did not fit without modification; elevator jointer interferes with rear edge of vertical stabilizer.
a. I found no problem with elevator or rudder interfering with each other (see photo #6)


5. Wire nose wheel landing gear flat on steering arm was 45 degree angel instead of straight.
a. Installed nose wheel landing gear using original flat steering runs correctly.
b. No need to grind new flat.


6. Slots in wing under side for main landing gear wire are to short. Holes for wire end to small.
a. Found no problem with landing gear installation.


7. Elevator wood tapers in thickness from one end to the other.
a. Fo[img][/img]und no problem on either end of elevator.


8. Factory designed rudder push rod on wrong side of model, making steer able nose wheel not work.
a. Although I did not use factory push rods, I used Sullivan Gold-n-Cables, I exited the rudder cable on the left hand side and the elevator cable on the right side using the existing exit points of the model. Everything worked ok.


9. The aileron servo linkage interferes with rudder servo linkage when wing is installed.
a. I found no problem. Iā€™m using full size servos (see photo #5)


10. Report of problems of the slots for the hinge material not cut in the wings and horizontal and vertical stabilizer.
a. All I did was take a straight pin and slowly push in the covering along the edge of the wings and found the slots, no problem. Took my exacto knife, cut the covering and found all the slots in the wing, rudder and stabilizer.

Modifications

To get CG correct. I installed my axi motor, while waiting for my parts from China to arrive.
Made motor mount. (See photo #3-4) Shows battery compartment for a 3s battery. 3s has to go all the way forward to the new motor mount to get proper CG.
Photo #4 shows where I had to dermal out existing firewall to get CG for the 3s battery. If you plan using a 4s battery you will not have to do any modification to existing firewall to get correct CG.
Photo #7 shows model with covers installed and air scoop on front cover. (Air Scoop is a plastic soup spoon)
Explorer L photo shows motor HXT45-48-B from United Hobbies. It is the motor I ordered for this plane.
The battery hatch, just in front of the windshield, I just cut out with exacto knife and it is held on with a tab in front and magnets on the back. See photo #3.
When the plane is complete the total weight of the plane, less battery, is 4 lbs 11oz.
3s1p 4000mah battery weighs 10ozā€™s
4s1p 4000mah battery weights 14ozā€™s

COMMENTS

Check out the different planes from [link=http://www.texasrcplanes.com]texasrcplanes.com[/link] . I was very impressed with the price of the airplanes at this sight. I asked the owner questions before I ordered the planes and his answers were very informative. I bought two planes and plan to buy more. I have the Explorer-L and Explorer-40. I think my next plane will be the Laser 90.

The batteries I am using are from [link=http://www.rcevproducts.com]rcevproducts.com[/link] . The 3s1p 4000mah I have had for about a year. Since I am retired I fly almost daily. I have over 500 charges on them. So when I decided to try a 4s1p, I bought mine from [link=http://www.rcevproducts.com]rcevproducts.com[/link] and been very happy with their batteries and their prompt and courteous service.

As for [link=http://www.unitedhobbies.com]unitedhobbies.com[/link] (Hobby City) I have always gotten excellent service and inexpensive pricing.

baylordsmith

My Feedback: (20)

Great pics. Since i have never built a arf before these sure help. I noticed that you have a Funster arf or kit?? I have a old one from a kit and I loved flying it with a 61 K&B. I am going electric this time. Thinking of converting the old one also. How do you like yours?? Thanks again for the help. baylor.

flyertoo

Thanks for your reply Baylor. The Funster flys very well with a 3s1p 4000mah battery. Have changed it to a 4s1p mah but it is a little to much for my limited ability. I have only been flying a little over a year. The Funster is an arf from Hobby Lobby. The two planes that I have converted are the Explorer-40 and the Explorer-L. The Explorer-40 was the easiest to convert and flys very well on a 3s1p. The Explorer-L,in order to balance, I had to do a little more work. The Funster arf has a big enough battery tray so you can get the cg correct with either 3s or 4s battery. I will be happy to answer if you have any more questions.
Terry

knotnuts

Thanks for a new (for me) link to texas webb site... Have any of you flown or seen flown the OUYA -40??? Or had experences with them?? How are there offerings packed?? Good, bad or in the middle??LOL

flyertoo

Have never flown a OUYA-40. The packing on both my Explorer's were, I would say, middle packed. The box's are very heavy gague cardboard. Neither plane had any shipping damages. They were packed inside the box really secure.
Thanks for your reply
Terry

flyertoo

Have flown the explorer-L a total of 10 flights yesterday and am switching between 3s and 4s batteries. the 3s1p bat. is very mild flying.THE4S1P is fast, take off is about 6 ft. and then stright up to about 150 ft. I am getting more at ease with power of the 4s bat.

Terry

baylordsmith

My Feedback: (20)

Hey beer man have you converted your funster to electric?? I have an old kit version(read heavy) that I am in the process of converting from a old K&B .61 to electric. any suggestions would be appreciated. I also bought the arf version from hobby lobby and bought the electrics recommended by them for it. Thanks for anything you can say Baylor

baylordsmith

My Feedback: (20)

beerman sorry missed your last post-baylor

baylordsmith

My Feedback: (20)

Terry did you have any problems with the hardware that came with your funster arf?? I got so mad I just replaced most of it with american stuff. I also had to build my own flap hook up because of poor threads. Thanks baylor