p51flier

I have to do tons of raised rivets on a big Dauntless. The plane will be glassed with epoxy. I'm a bit concerned about the rivets. Will the rivets stick with the glassed, filled and wet sanded surface? I already used wood glue for rivets inside the cockpit and it worked well. But will it also work on the outside where I have to hold, push and lift the plane. Is wood glue the right stuff for rivets on glas?

Any information is greatly appreciated.
Joe

heavy date-RCU

Not to worry. They should stick just fine. Some people put them on after priming and they hold just as well. One thing to try if you want to flaten them out a bit is after they are dry and hard, just go over the plane with some steel wool. It tends to give the rivets a flatter look.

Water and wood glue make great rivets.

Hans

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Anither neat trick is to allpy them with a comb. Cut every other tooth (Or leave every third tooth etc.) from a comb. Dip the comb in the glue, and apply a whole row of rivets in one shot.

egor

Evening fella's

ya got my head spinning and that hurts. so i gotta ask and make sure i got the wheels inside my head turnin right. wood glue rivets am I understanding this right these are just drops and/or droplets of glue allowed to dry on whatever surface say as an example a super small hershey's kiss. or roughly something in that shape or form.

tell me i'm right please what little that's left of my brain is smoking

egor

green river rc

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I used Elmers wood glue on mine,(over primer) and I have had a few to pop off. I have since learned that canopy glue like RC 56 works better, but I haven't tried it yet.

ProfLooney

Egor you dont want them to look like little hersheys kissed you want the top round usually the glue is thin enough it will round off all by itself.

Joe

egor

Thanks ProfLooney I thought I was on the right track with my thinking but it seemed like one of those things that would be to simple and relatively easy to be right.

Guess if ya got a thousand or so to do it still won't be all that easy will it.

Egor

ProfLooney

Egor it really goes fast. once you get past the initial nervousness of doing it for the first time you can plop them down fast. A good way is to pre mark them. get one of them flexible plastic yardsticks like seamstresses and taylors use and lay it say on the wing anwhatever scale distance apart you need them take a soft pencil and put a mark where you want your rivet. then when you make your rivets just start dropping on the dots. if you want to get your inspiration going and your rythm up just play wagners flight of the valkyrie as you plop them down but you will get to where your putting down abt 1 rivet a second or so and 4 or 5000 a sitting.

Joe

egor

ProfLooney;

This is good new there's a lot of rivets on them there p-38s going to be a busy winter I can see that.


Thanks
Egor

ProfLooney

yea most planes youll avg between 20 and 30000 rivets and you can have it done in abt 3 evenings on avg.

Joe

RandyL

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You right in the ballpark Joe...I estimated my B-25 at approx. 26,000 when I was done. It will be closer to 40,000 when I am re-done!!! Again!!!!! : ) Oh well......

p51flier

Aren't we kinda mad - 40000 glue drops or burned circles. Definitely, at the first sight. If you make 30 drops per minute you will need approximately 22 hours. That's acceptable and at the second sight not realy mad. But when I look at a Dauntless, which will be my next project, it looks like there are slightly more than 40000 rivets. It rather looks like there are millions of small round heads.

Joe

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

Joe,

What Dauntless are you going to build... the Ziroli? I'm doing the Bates 85" SBD-5 right now. I've found that Titebond thinned a little with water works really well for raised rivets. Alyphatic resin works good too.

I haven't tried Dave Platt's method of applying with an oil bottle (plastic bottle with a needle applicator) but plan to use that method on my SBD. He say's the trick to getting good dome heads to your raised rivets is to NOT touch the surface with your applicator. Just let the surface tension of the glue "pull" the drop off your applicator and onto the plane. Makes sense to me.

Post some pics of your SBD project when you get it started, I'd love to see your progress! You can see mine at:

http://www.renderwurx.com/rc/SBD/

Good luck,

Neo

p51flier

Our two Dauntless will be enlarged Zirol birds. The wingspan will be 110" which makes a scale of 1/4.5. The major disadvantage of this size is, that there is no cowling or canopy available. We have to make all that stuff by ourselves.

Neo,
I surf over your site every week. It really inspires me and I cant wait to get my CNC kit in September.

Meanwhile I have to finish my fiberclassics Mustang. That ugly blue painting behind the exhaust area will soon be removed.

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

WOW! A 110" SBD... that's gonna be huge! Sounds like you've got your work cut out for you. I can imagine you'll have a rough time with canopies, cowls, retracts and other scale add-ons from using that scale factor. It has been... "interesting" for me too. Mine is marketed as 1/5.5 scale plans, but they actually measure out to be 1/5.9 scale, close enough to 1/6 scale for most add-ons. Perfect for those expensive but detailed 1/6 scale pilot "action" figures.

I used the Tiano radial dummy in 1/5 scale and it fits perfect for some strange reason. I have to question the accuracy of their scale factor? I printed out both the 1/5 and 1/6 scale Tiano dummy images at actual size and put them in my cowl before ordering. The 1/6 scale was way to small. It didn't fit the prop shaft well at all, and you could see the entire cylinder and heads in the cowl opening. I checked the full-scale radial pics and you can't see the cylinder heads, they're "tucked up" in the lip of the cowl. You'll probably have to build your own for a good fit, that is if you plan to use one at all.

Thanks for the compliments on my SBD project site... can't wait to see yours when you get it going!

Neo

RandyL

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Neo, That is exactly how to apply the glue rivet. Anytime that the applicator touchs the model the suface tension of the glue drop goes away causing a poor looking rivet head. I've never met Dave but did figure it out on my own after a bit.
There is more on the finishing on my B-25 page but one other thing that works nice is to loosen the glue / rivet bottle and squeeze it slightly, then retighten the lid. It sort of pressurizes the bottle slightly so you don't have to squeeze it. Much more relaxing on the hand and keeps you moving....

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

Randy,

Thanks for the tips and the pic. Those are the best rivets I've seen yet! What did you make the raised panel for the light fixture out of?

Neo

RandyL

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks Neo... Hope the pic helps a little. I did a lot of testing on types of glue to get the best shaped rivet I could. I used good old Elmers white glue thinned 10% or so with water. Apply them in shade at near room temp.. all of this makes a differnce in how they dry and how uniform they are when finished. Shoot me an e-mail if I can help in more detail.

The landing light reflector and bulb were installed and then a piece of clear plastic 2 liter pop bottle was cut and glued on. Next the rivets were applied and an oval shaped piece of masking tape. After painting, the tape was removed to make it resemble a lens.. Very simple and a good effect I think, thanks for noticing.