Poor Man's Engine mount
08-31-2008, 09:50 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Orlando,
FL
Posts: 614
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Poor Man's Engine mount
Hey All
Here is a simple idea to mount a gas engine using easy obtained parts from Lowe’s, Home Depot or pretty much any well stocked hardware store.
The parts are pretty simple and shouldn’t cost more than a couple of bucks. You will need to buy splicing plates, coupling nuts, T-nuts, and bolts that are ¼ x 20 x whatever length is needed.
The idea came to me a while back when I was mounting my RCGF 20cc. The engine needed to be mounted forward of the firewall about 2.25 inches. I could have used regular engine stand offs but I figured their must be a cheaper way.
I had some regular engine standoffs but they are only 1.5 inches long. So I needed something that would extend the length another 3/4” to the firewall.
I went to Home Depot and bought 2 splicing plates. Splicing plates are used in carpentry to join two pieces of wood butted together. They are made of 1/8” thick galvanized or stainless steel. I used the galvanized steel because it was cheaper!
One splicing plate is used to attach the top two of the engine lugs and one to attach the bottom of the engine lugs. The splice plates come in a variety of lengths from 2 inches all the way to 5 + inches. They come with holes already drilled in them. The holes will accommodate a ¼ bolt no problem.
I also bought 4 coupling nuts. These are pretty neat little items. They are the poor modelers’ version of engine standoffs. The come in different hole dimensions and in different lengths too! They are threaded and the ones that I bought were ¾ “ long x ¼ x 20 thread, and they were the exact length that I needed.
The splicing plates were centered to the firewall temporarily using tape, then the plates were marked with the dimensions from the engine lugs. The splicing plates come with pre drilled holes that will accommodate a ¼ bolt. Make sure that the engine lug holes do not interfere with the splicing plate predrilled holes. The splicing plates were a little longer than I wanted, so I ground them done a little. No big deal here.
Take the plates off the firewall and drill the firewall and the splicing plates. The t-nuts are installed into the firewall.
Install the coupling nuts to the splicing plate and the firewall. I used ¼” x 20 x 1.25” bolts. The pics below show the installation.
Now you can install the engine using the standoffs, bolts, lock washers – easy from here on in.
The engine is now the proper distance, and I did it for a couple of bucks.
I have used this system to mount my 65cc also. Works great. Oh..don’t forget to Loctite everything too.
Henry
Here is a simple idea to mount a gas engine using easy obtained parts from Lowe’s, Home Depot or pretty much any well stocked hardware store.
The parts are pretty simple and shouldn’t cost more than a couple of bucks. You will need to buy splicing plates, coupling nuts, T-nuts, and bolts that are ¼ x 20 x whatever length is needed.
The idea came to me a while back when I was mounting my RCGF 20cc. The engine needed to be mounted forward of the firewall about 2.25 inches. I could have used regular engine stand offs but I figured their must be a cheaper way.
I had some regular engine standoffs but they are only 1.5 inches long. So I needed something that would extend the length another 3/4” to the firewall.
I went to Home Depot and bought 2 splicing plates. Splicing plates are used in carpentry to join two pieces of wood butted together. They are made of 1/8” thick galvanized or stainless steel. I used the galvanized steel because it was cheaper!
One splicing plate is used to attach the top two of the engine lugs and one to attach the bottom of the engine lugs. The splice plates come in a variety of lengths from 2 inches all the way to 5 + inches. They come with holes already drilled in them. The holes will accommodate a ¼ bolt no problem.
I also bought 4 coupling nuts. These are pretty neat little items. They are the poor modelers’ version of engine standoffs. The come in different hole dimensions and in different lengths too! They are threaded and the ones that I bought were ¾ “ long x ¼ x 20 thread, and they were the exact length that I needed.
The splicing plates were centered to the firewall temporarily using tape, then the plates were marked with the dimensions from the engine lugs. The splicing plates come with pre drilled holes that will accommodate a ¼ bolt. Make sure that the engine lug holes do not interfere with the splicing plate predrilled holes. The splicing plates were a little longer than I wanted, so I ground them done a little. No big deal here.
Take the plates off the firewall and drill the firewall and the splicing plates. The t-nuts are installed into the firewall.
Install the coupling nuts to the splicing plate and the firewall. I used ¼” x 20 x 1.25” bolts. The pics below show the installation.
Now you can install the engine using the standoffs, bolts, lock washers – easy from here on in.
The engine is now the proper distance, and I did it for a couple of bucks.
I have used this system to mount my 65cc also. Works great. Oh..don’t forget to Loctite everything too.
Henry
08-31-2008, 10:07 PM
#2
My Feedback: (49)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Superior,
AZ
Posts: 1,158
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Poor Man's Engine mount
Nice job Henry.When we talking on the phone this afternoon i was trying to picture what you did but like the old saying about a pic and 1000 words is true.Heres a pic of my installation i did today.Now this plane was built for a rail mount conversion engine so i just cut off the top 2 beams,then added 2 more on the bottom.The top 2 go through the firewall and as you can see are glued to the inside of the fuse a ways back.Im going to glue a flat plate on the actual firewall behind the carb,[infront of the carb intake]to keep any fuel spitz from going into the fuse.
08-31-2008, 10:24 PM
#4
My Feedback: (49)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Superior,
AZ
Posts: 1,158
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Poor Man's Engine mount
Yes,but there just temporary until i get the servos,and everything lined up,glue has dried,ect.There not even that tight,just snugged up.Ill probably use some furnature studs.The ones that have a wood thread on one end and then machine threads on the other.Ill put epoxy or glue on the wood threads before i install them and use 2 nuts on the other as jam nuts or use lock nuts.I suppose i should have mentioned that so a newbie doesnt read or look at it and say,i can copy that.
08-31-2008, 10:36 PM
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Orlando,
FL
Posts: 614
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Poor Man's Engine mount
Hey Matt
Love your installation. I like the simple, straightforward and of course cheap (I mean inexpensive!!) ways of mounting an engine.
I am gonna go out on Tuesday and get some furniture studs to start playing with them too. That is another inexpensive solution, especially if you have a thicker firewall or mounting rails like you have. Great idea!!!!
Cheers
Henry
[link=http://www.zrcgf.com]RCGF Engines - North America[/link]
Love your installation. I like the simple, straightforward and of course cheap (I mean inexpensive!!) ways of mounting an engine.
I am gonna go out on Tuesday and get some furniture studs to start playing with them too. That is another inexpensive solution, especially if you have a thicker firewall or mounting rails like you have. Great idea!!!!
Cheers
Henry
[link=http://www.zrcgf.com]RCGF Engines - North America[/link]
