hauckf

Pennzoil 2-Cycle Oil for Air Cooled Engines is available on line. The two sources that I know of, and I am sure there are others, are Aircraft Spruce, [link]http://www.aircraftspruce.com[/link] and Wicks Aircraft, [link]http://www.wicksaircraft.com[/link]. It's the oil I use, and the last time I bought it, I got it from Spruce.

rcdude7

My Feedback: (264)

Here is a good deal online on a case of 8oz bottles. http://oilstore.stores.yahoo.net/pe2cyforairc.html


I have also seen air-cooled at autozone and advance auto.


Mike

Zippi

My Feedback: (10)

Looks like there is a lot available online so if I can't find it around here I know where to go.

Eagleburger

Mineral does the job.

I dont like to change.

Its cheaper.

Tell me what advantage is there running synthetic?

Zippi

My Feedback: (10)

Eagleburger has a good point. I've been running gassers for some time and never had an issue with the the oil I used causing any damage are excessive wear. It's not like I put a lot of miles so to speak on my engines anyway. I might put a couple hours a month run time on any given engine so over a long period of time that’s not a lot of run time. Now, other guys that fly the same plane day in and day out may have a different story. The only reason I'm changing to Pennzoil is LawnBoy is no longer readily available.

Jezmo

I get Pennzoil two cycle air cooled oil from Advanced Auto Parts in the little 3.2 oz bottles. Never had any measurable wear in any of my engines using it. No carbon either unlike some of the other popular brands out there.

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

Synthetic is more expensive.

Dino oil works fine. It worked fine 30yrs ago and the quality has improved a WHOLE lot in those 30yrs. Any oil you buy from the local store today is going to provide 10x better protection than the oil your grandpappy used in his chainsaw back in 1973.

Any good 2-stroke oil for air-cooled engines will provide more than enough protection for the lifespan of our engines.

It's a RARE RC pilot who will actually wear out an engine. 95% of them end up smacking the ground before they are even close to worn out.

My opinion is:
You really CAN'T screw up if you just buy a modern 2-stroke oil thats designed for air-cooled engines. Mix it according to the label on the oil bottle. Tune properly and check your spark plug after every 4 or 5 gallons. Fly it. Don't worry about it because you'll probably wreck the engine before it even needs a carb kit.

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

Hey guys I was up to a friends place and he was showing me his new 58 BME Extream I have seen it run and fly before (very impressive engine I might add) but heres what he wanted me to look at. The black build up on the piston , it actually went half the way down the piston and exhaust and of course the plug. This engine has about a gallon of fuel ran thru it is all, and it looks like it has 100K on it. He used Stihl (SP) aircooled saw oil oil at a mix of 40-1 for breakin. After seeing this for myself I won't be useing it ever for a aircraft engine.
The oil says its to be mixed with 2.5 gal of gas 6.4 oz container to give a 50-1 ratio ,what I am wondering if this is a oil that can't be run at a richer mix W/O some buildup probs. any ideas on that???

I advised him to go get some Penz aircooled and start over again before he sticks the rings, and maybe ruin the plug. I just hope its not to late and he can get the engine back clean again.
The 2 times I have been around when the engine was ran and flown it didn't appear to be getting overheated in any way, so I don't believe that was a factor here.
This is what I would call in need of a oil change pronto.

RTK

My Feedback: (1)

There should not be any black build up half way down the piston. Stihl "HP" is supposed to be good oil, don't know about SP. I will know more this afternoon, I have run 3 gallons of HP in my 58 and will take off the cylinder today and have a look see.

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

(SP) was for spelling. Thats what I always thought we used alot of it in the saws when we had the wood business and never any issues, but I never tore a engine down to look either. I was shocked when I seen what it looked like. Thats why im wondering about the mix if it can or can't be changed from the 50-1 ratio they call for.

RTK

My Feedback: (1)

Pulled my cylinder off today. The Stihl Ultra HP (synthetic) had more deposits than the Pennzoil air cooled at 32:1, not much, and the deposits were harder. I am running a tuned pipe which currently is not set up correctly and I am seeing some staining, not deposits, on the piston skirt just where the exhaust port is. The rest of the piston between the rings and above are sparkling clean, no blow by going on here. This leads me to conclude that the pressure wave from my mal adjusted pipe is causing this.

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

I don't think the stuff he was useing is Syn, he wanted dino oil for breakin and then change it over to syn later on. I read the label on his bottle and I didn't see anything about it being syn, but what got me to wondering about the mix, is they gave only one mix on the bottle, the 50-1 ratio, most oils have several so you can mix according to what you want. If the exhaust had not of been leaking that black crap we wouldn't have been the wiser, the engine ran great and still does but when he pulled the muff off to make a new gasket is when we seen this mess. If you ever been into a diesel engine that is what this reminds me of black crap everywhere inside. I just thought it was very strange considering.

Eagleburger

I didnt want to say it before but my bike racing buddies all say this same thing.

Synthetic leaves harder deposits.

Eagleburger

Rich?