krusstygun

i have a older iwata airbrush the thing was spattering when i threw it into my toolbox about 15 years ago.
i recently dug it out to paint a waco ymf 3 but the thing is driving me nuts .
i just put a new needle into it and a nozzle .
i have reduced my paint down to the viscosity of milk.
while i am painting i can't get any paint to flow , i have to almost pump it out with the lever.
i am about to throw it back into my toolbox for another 15 years.
any ideas on how to cure my problem ?[sm=cry_smile.gif][sm=cry_smile.gif][sm=cry_smile.gif]

Ram Jet

You may have some internal seals that are gummed up or worn out. I would completely disasseble it and soak the parts in lacquer thinner overnight. Blow out the passages with compressed air. If all else fails buy a Badger dual needle. I should have asked you if it's a siphon feed or gravity feed. Siphon feeds can be a-bit more troublesome.

Bill

eagledancer

i own 3 iwata airbrushes, best guns i own, but i wont own a siphon feed because of the sputtering problems. if yours is gravity feed (cup on top) it maybe because your gun is dirty, try what ram jet suggested soak the gun and make sure all passages are clean, it also could be your still too thick on your paint mix. also depending on the paint your using if it is high metalics or pearls they can cause clogging

BountyHunter51

As Ram Jet and Eagledancer have suggested, a good cleaning can go a long way. Another thought is the needle seat could be cracked or damaged.
Cheers! BH

krusstygun

i just replaced the needle and the nozzle i am just really new at this airbrushing thing. i tried some master modeler kandy purple . found it is working for me but this purple hates water . the cup is stained purple so i am soaking her for the night [sm=idea.gif]

dhal22

i just bought a nib iwata siphon feed from the big auction site. is the sputtering problem that bad?

SPLIT S

Bill is probably right with the seals being worn. If that was the case 15 years ago they have only become worse with age. If it is a siphon feed make sure the vent is clear in the top of the cup. If it becomes clogged air can't get into the cup and the gun won't be able to siphon the paint out of it. If it is clear and the gun still sputters, you have an air leak somewhere that's interupting the siphon and making it sputter. Either way a good cleaning and re-packing should bring it back up to snuff.

Good luck,
Dan
www.gocolours.com

Rudolph Hart

Check that your paint cup vent hole is clear but it's more likely that your main needle seal needs re-packing or replacing.It's a common problem.Don't forget to lube the needle and packing gland with vaseline or light machine grade oil

dhal22

thanks.

Avaiojet

I didn't read every word in this Thread, but did anyone mention straining the paint through a filter before placing it in the cup?

All professional air brush guys do this.

Here's a sample of my contributions using air brush and brush techniques.

dhal22

dude, you can paint any of my planes. very nice work. thx for the strainer tip. i've got 3 ready for paint, a 4th in the glassing stage, i need to get busy.[X(]

Avaiojet

David,

Keep in mind that effort in preparation, before spraying the actual paint itself, is extremely important. This includes straining paint and cleaning the surface to be painted.

Keep us posted as to you're progress. Photos would be nice.

Here's a model I painted many years ago. Took Best Finish at the WRAM show. First and last time I ever entered.

dhal22

how fine of a strainer should i use?

thx

Avaiojet

Buy them at the automotive body shop supply stores.

I use the finest. Thing is this, a professional needs consistency, so without straining, how do you know what's in the cup? You don't.

Realistically, I cannot see painting an airplane with an airbrush. I have a "jam gun", actually an old bottom feed which I use for areas that don't require detail. I have an HVLP which I use for larger areas and for clearing.

One simple thing I keep in mind, is it's all the same but different. That is, it could be graphixs on a motorcycle tank or art on a model. The approach is the same.

Charles

Rudolph Hart

64x64 strainers are fine in most cases except with the larger mettallics

krusstygun

does anyone know anything about acrylic paint and it reacting to fuel?
i wish to flame paint an airplane and hate to mess it up.
is it possible to spray dope onto acrylic?
i am lost

krusstygun

i found a exellent product from faskolor for a fuel proof clearcoat
the stuff is fascoat clear, product #40200
it applies great glow fuel doesn't react with it
colors are not affected. no smell so the boss stays happy
when i use it in the basement .
great stuff that i have found

sebo

I own and use a siphon feed and have not had any problems....all I use is Klass Cote and Sherwin Williams auto paints....both metalic and non metalic.

dhal22

how do you acquire the sherwin williams paint? by the qt or gallon? i thought about asking for leftovers at a paint and body shop.

Rudolph Hart

By the ltr over here.Good idea asking at the local paint and panel shop,if you are lucky and the guy likes you you'll get it at cost to them per volume given instead of a ltr rate and colour matching costs added on,that's going to be about $140.Takes a while to do that well.

sebo

I go to the sherwin williams auto paint store. I tell them that what I want and they show me a bunch of color charts to choose from. They then mix the color I selected and sell it to me by the quart. I bought a gallon of white since I use it a lot. That wasn't necessary. A quart would have done just as well and I could have replaced it instead of having 3/4 gallon of white sitting around. They can give you any color you can imagine............Ron
The paint is 2 part and you need a respirator. It is toxic. Dries pretty fast too. THey give you an instruction chart as to how to do it too.
My paint wasn't as expensive as stated above. I bought several colors.

dhal22

cool, i will look into it. thx

zpainter

Has anyone used an Iwata TR2? I am thinking of getting this as I spray automotive urethanes on my projects. I am looking to avoid the stippling effect on the base color without over reducing. The TR2 has a .5 tip and the TR1 has a .3 tip. They both use a conventional trigger. I have a problem with top triggers as I am used to painting cars.

Rudolph Hart

I know what you mean.Wedge the side of your thumb under the edge of the trigger,partially