twindaddy66

I'm not sure this is my problem, but here are the symptoms:

1. 3rd pull engine (SIKK 25.4) started, got to burp the throttle a coule of times, then it shut off....

2. Tried repeatedly and got nothing on the start.

3. Pulled the spark plug, and there was whitish looking liquid fouling the plug. It looked as if it was flooded, but it was something else. Looked alot like motor oil and water mixed.

Here's my question...does this mean water in the crank case, and if so....how do I get it out???? I thought I had drained all the water out of everything, the boat has been sitting (with plug out) while I did the rebuild on the accessories....

Oh..I did try drying off the plug a few times, but all I got was a couple of turn overs, but no good start....

Thanks

T-Daddy

MKMotorsport

whitish or milkshake like appearance means water. Did you have someone hold the boat engine upsidedown with the plug out turning it over as fast as you possibly can? Best thing to do would be to run the engine at operating temperature if possible (this means with load). Other things you can try are gently warming the case with a heat gun or hair dryer. Also flush the thing out with fogging oil/wd-40 ect...

Anytime an engine is dunked and you have pulled the plug and cleared the water as mentioned above, I always try to get the boat back on the water immediately and turn some hot laps. Water or even condensation sitting in the crankcase will wreck all the bearings and running surfaces for them...


MKM

twindaddy66

Ewww...well, I didn't exactly remove the plug and turn it over upside down, but I did oil the crap out of it with after run oil...

I'm going to try warming it up. I sure do not want to tear this thing down. I just got it all back together again...hey maybe I'll call this boat Humpty-Dumpty...LOL!!

Thanks

T-Daddy

glennb2006

If it has been sat for any length of time (more than a day) then chances are you are going to have corrosion formed inside the engine. Bearings are the most likely target for damage.
You might want to consider puling it to bits to inspect it if nothing else, it's easy enough done.

Glenn

twindaddy66

[:@]Grrrrrr[:@]

planebasher

I did not dunk my Easy Vee but it is so low that it tends to ingest a little water every now and then.

Pull the plug if there is water present it will look milky, and you will probably see a drop of water on the plug. Place a rag over the spark plug hole and put a little compression on the engine to force the water out of the crankcase while you pull it thru several times;
I usually put in a new spark plug; one I know is dry. Slowly pull the engine thru making sure it is not hydrauliclly locked. It will usually fire and run.

If not I oil it down good with Marvel Mystery Oil, drain the fuel tank and with the plug out turn the boat upside down.

When I get home I open the throttle wide open and while it is open I turn the receiver off so the throttle will stay open; turn on my small stinger shop vac place the vacuum hose over the spark plug hole and while holding it there pull the engine thru several times; place the new plug back in; pull the engine thru a couple of times; remove check for moisture and if none is present; I put about a half pint of Camp Fuel Mixture in the tank and start it and run it a few minutes.

Then I oil it down real good with Marvel Myster Oil until the next time I run it.

MrMikeG

Best way is to turn the engine upside down and pull it through a few times. Doesn't have to be real fast as gravity will help get the water out. (watch out for a spinning prop if your holding the whole boat upside down) WD40 or CRC is a water dispersant, I don't think after run or marvel oil is. Run the engine afterwards until it builds up enough heat that the water jacket is very warm, not enough to melt O-rings but warm enough to dry out any left over water from inside the bearings. It's best to run a few laps but if you have broken the boat you still need to dry the engine on the bench. [:@]

twindaddy66

Well, I dove off the deep end and pulled the jug just now. There was enough water in the crank to support a small fish...granted the fish could live in the grime... It looked like a thawed out milkshake.

So, I turned the thing upside down, and it soaked almost an entire paper towel. I have some electric motor cleaner that displaces everything and realigns the time-space continuum all at once.

I flushed it really good, then made up an attachement for the shop vac with a bit of water tubing on the end which sucked out all the gunk really effectively. I did this 3 times till I ran out of cleaner. I had flushed everything, including the piston.

I checked the bearings as best I could see, and there was no corrosion anywhere... I guess there was enough oil in the mixture to prevent that.

I can see why everyone with these engines says to change the jug gasket...its a piece of crap, and it was already coming apart...glad I went ahead and pulled it!!

I am going to order another gasket, but which size? .020 or .050 ?? Also, I noticed some kind of hi-temp silicon or something on there from the factory...is this necessary in the replacement??

I coated everything with WD-40 and I will let it air out until the new gasket gets here...

Thanks for all the help...

T-Daddy

jacob711

i believe an .020 gasket is what your after

twindaddy66

Ordered one yesterday (Friday), and it's on the way already. Kudos to DDM on quick ship out. I think I am also going to invest in one of those foam air filters that are supposed to help prevent, or at least minimize water ingestion. I don't want to be doing this often.......

Thanks all...
T-Daddy