Purple Brushless Electric Ultimate BiPe
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RE: Purple Brushless Electric Ultimate BiPe
ORIGINAL: Snrgevo
Oh, BTW... What is the trick to installing the horizontal stab and elevator? Do I have the jist of this?
I was thinking I have to 1. Slide the elevator into the fuse. 2. Rotate it 90* so it is oriented up and down. 3. Slide in the horizontal stab, rotate the elevator back down and then CA the hinges?
Oh, BTW... What is the trick to installing the horizontal stab and elevator? Do I have the jist of this?
I was thinking I have to 1. Slide the elevator into the fuse. 2. Rotate it 90* so it is oriented up and down. 3. Slide in the horizontal stab, rotate the elevator back down and then CA the hinges?
The elevator planes are joined by that thin piece of wood.
This bothered me quite a bit, as I could forsee the elevator warping if I attempted to remove any covering bubbles later...
So I used a finger drill to drill holes on the inside of each elevator half, right along the small joiner piece.
I then installed a small 2.5" length of carbon fiber rod into the holes so it is IMMEDIATELY behind the thin wooden section.
This gives more stiffness to the elevator and also permits the servo force to be transferred evenly to both elevator halves without warping or having one elevator slightly higher or lower than the other.
Because the CF rod is immediately behind the joiner, there is no interference with the movement of the elevator, nor do you have to modify the cutout in the fuse.
#102
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RE: Purple Brushless Electric Ultimate BiPe
ORIGINAL: opjose
That is how I installed mine, however I also did something I would suggest you do.
The elevator planes are joined by that thin piece of wood.
This bothered me quite a bit, as I could forsee the elevator warping if I attempted to remove any covering bubbles later...
So I used a finger drill to drill holes on the inside of each elevator half, right along the small joiner piece.
I then installed a small 2.5" length of carbon fiber rod into the holes so it is IMMEDIATELY behind the thin wooden section.
This gives more stiffness to the elevator and also permits the servo force to be transferred evenly to both elevator halves without warping or having one elevator slightly higher or lower than the other.
Because the CF rod is immediately behind the joiner, there is no interference with the movement of the elevator, nor do you have to modify the cutout in the fuse.
ORIGINAL: Snrgevo
Oh, BTW... What is the trick to installing the horizontal stab and elevator? Do I have the jist of this?
I was thinking I have to 1. Slide the elevator into the fuse. 2. Rotate it 90* so it is oriented up and down. 3. Slide in the horizontal stab, rotate the elevator back down and then CA the hinges?
Oh, BTW... What is the trick to installing the horizontal stab and elevator? Do I have the jist of this?
I was thinking I have to 1. Slide the elevator into the fuse. 2. Rotate it 90* so it is oriented up and down. 3. Slide in the horizontal stab, rotate the elevator back down and then CA the hinges?
The elevator planes are joined by that thin piece of wood.
This bothered me quite a bit, as I could forsee the elevator warping if I attempted to remove any covering bubbles later...
So I used a finger drill to drill holes on the inside of each elevator half, right along the small joiner piece.
I then installed a small 2.5" length of carbon fiber rod into the holes so it is IMMEDIATELY behind the thin wooden section.
This gives more stiffness to the elevator and also permits the servo force to be transferred evenly to both elevator halves without warping or having one elevator slightly higher or lower than the other.
Because the CF rod is immediately behind the joiner, there is no interference with the movement of the elevator, nor do you have to modify the cutout in the fuse.
Thanks for all the info. Especially on the lipos. I'll definitely do the mod to the elevator now, that's the best idea I've seen for this fix. Usually it's a metal "U" shaped music wire in front of the elevator. Too invasive, having to pull back the covering and dig out a channel, etc. Awesome. [8D]
I do have a Michael's right down the road from me. I saw the the huge selection of balsa but never thought about looking for magnets there. I'll will sure keep an eye on this thread from now on... Thanks gentlemen!!
#103
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RE: Purple Brushless Electric Ultimate BiPe
Snrgevo (and others)
I've got my little Ulitmate together. Using the same Rimfire as you, and a yet to be delivered Turnigy 25A ESC and Rhino 1800MaH battery.
Should there be any concerns about the EZ lock connectors supplied in the kit's hardware? Once I got them bolted on to the control horns, I started worrying about the nuts vibrating off during flight, especially losing the elevator. Anybody out there with experience here?
Fred
I've got my little Ulitmate together. Using the same Rimfire as you, and a yet to be delivered Turnigy 25A ESC and Rhino 1800MaH battery.
Should there be any concerns about the EZ lock connectors supplied in the kit's hardware? Once I got them bolted on to the control horns, I started worrying about the nuts vibrating off during flight, especially losing the elevator. Anybody out there with experience here?
Fred
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RE: Purple Brushless Electric Ultimate BiPe
ORIGINAL: FallDownGoBoom
Snrgevo (and others)
I've got my little Ulitmate together. Using the same Rimfire as you, and a yet to be delivered Turnigy 25A ESC and Rhino 1800MaH battery.
Should there be any concerns about the EZ lock connectors supplied in the kit's hardware? Once I got them bolted on to the control horns, I started worrying about the nuts vibrating off during flight, especially losing the elevator. Anybody out there with experience here?
Fred
Snrgevo (and others)
I've got my little Ulitmate together. Using the same Rimfire as you, and a yet to be delivered Turnigy 25A ESC and Rhino 1800MaH battery.
Should there be any concerns about the EZ lock connectors supplied in the kit's hardware? Once I got them bolted on to the control horns, I started worrying about the nuts vibrating off during flight, especially losing the elevator. Anybody out there with experience here?
Fred
However you hit upon their biggest weakness.
So what you do is you take the same precautions you should always take with any RC screws... namely Lock-tite Blue!
Buy yourself a pack of microapplicators, and use one to put a small dot of locktite blue on the screw threads before you tighten it down.
The EZ-Lock connector screws that are included are a bit fragile so don't go crazy trying to tighten them down.
Put on the Locktite, get eveything square and trim, and tighten the screws firmly.
They will not move thanks to the locktite.
BTW: I use the EZ-Locks on planes as large as 50CC'ers... ( check my gallery for pictures of larger planes with EZ Connectors ).
Once I started using Lock-tite I've never had one slip or give.
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RE: Purple Brushless Electric Ultimate BiPe
Opjose:
I was going to go the Loctite route, but then just decided to spend $5 at the LHS for a set of micro EZ connectors. I'm not as worried about vibration on an electric as I do on my wet powered planes. I've used EZ connectors for control connections (and still do for throttle servo/non-critical control connections, but on my elevator, rudder, and ailerons I've gone to Z-bends or pushrod keepers. We had a guy lose his trainer to an EZ connector coming out of the servo arm.
I was going to go the Loctite route, but then just decided to spend $5 at the LHS for a set of micro EZ connectors. I'm not as worried about vibration on an electric as I do on my wet powered planes. I've used EZ connectors for control connections (and still do for throttle servo/non-critical control connections, but on my elevator, rudder, and ailerons I've gone to Z-bends or pushrod keepers. We had a guy lose his trainer to an EZ connector coming out of the servo arm.
#106
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RE: Purple Brushless Electric Ultimate BiPe
Yup, I had that happen on an elevator. Loc-Tite seems to stop this from happening altogether.
Pushrod keepers have been far more problematic than the E-Z's for me.
They can and will pop off if the retainer breaks... e.g. a fuel tubing piece, etc...
I've taken to purchasing O-rings as retainers. They seem to hold up better, look nicer and can be had in different sizes, unlike using fuel tubing pieces.
Pushrod keepers have been far more problematic than the E-Z's for me.
They can and will pop off if the retainer breaks... e.g. a fuel tubing piece, etc...
I've taken to purchasing O-rings as retainers. They seem to hold up better, look nicer and can be had in different sizes, unlike using fuel tubing pieces.
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RE: Purple Brushless Electric Ultimate BiPe
BUMP
Hey, how is everybody doing on their bipes? Anyone know where there are more of these or spare stuff up for sale??? NitroPlanes.com is pretty bare lately
Really, I didn't want this thread to die since I only have the servo's mounted and have yet to maiden mine... A Boeing L-15 Scout and S.P.A.D.S. are keeping my power systems tied up lately! Yup, definitly like the EZ locks, too... and always go with loctite on anything metal to metal.
Keep posting!~J
ORIGINAL: FallDownGoBoom
Snrgevo (and others)
I've got my little Ulitmate together. Using the same Rimfire as you, and a yet to be delivered Turnigy 25A ESC and Rhino 1800MaH battery.
Should there be any concerns about the EZ lock connectors supplied in the kit's hardware? Once I got them bolted on to the control horns, I started worrying about the nuts vibrating off during flight, especially losing the elevator. Anybody out there with experience here?
Fred
Snrgevo (and others)
I've got my little Ulitmate together. Using the same Rimfire as you, and a yet to be delivered Turnigy 25A ESC and Rhino 1800MaH battery.
Should there be any concerns about the EZ lock connectors supplied in the kit's hardware? Once I got them bolted on to the control horns, I started worrying about the nuts vibrating off during flight, especially losing the elevator. Anybody out there with experience here?
Fred