mpriestley

My Feedback: (1)

Any one out there have experience with automotive paints on glo-fuel planes.

I am ready to prime my deullist, Do to regulations in CA it is difficult to get and depend on hobby paints, need suggestions and info regarding automotive paints

What info is important.

I have not decided on color but it will be gloss.

surface is fiberglassed with 3/40z and west systems epoxy resin.

Thank you for the help.

need to know what kind of primer and paint.

pmw

My Feedback: (1)

All enamels and urethane paints are fuel proof. Some are actually more resistant than others. I've used the high dollar 2 and 3 part auto paints with good results but the cost and mess are prohibitive unless your building a show model. The best results I've had are with off the shelf auto paints in a spray can such as PlastiKote or DupiColor. But my favorite of all is Rustoleum. The only disadvantage is the long drying time but the finish and ease of application is the best I can find in a spray can. I've never had any luck at all with the model spray can paints and I've used them all. The best primer I've found is Rustoleum gray. PlastiKote is hard to sand so I don't recommend it. Rustoleum primer dries fast and has excellent sanding qualities. You can use it under any type of paint. Stay away from laquers. They are not fuel proof.

mpriestley

My Feedback: (1)

Thank you for the help.

You say rustoleum is Ok under any paint?
that will make this weekend much easier.

I do want to paint with a spray gun however. I can do the primer with out the gun but I really want to do the paint with the gun.

are there any suggestions regarding paints. I am thinking of stopping by a paint shop and purchasing some of there stuff. Preferably not a 2 part or 3 part.

Thank you again!

blvdbuzzard

I tried the Rustolem and it was "NOT" fuel proof. It was some what resistant to the glow fuel but no where near proof. The Plasticote melted the second the fuel hit it.

You can use all of the paint in cans and then clear coat with a 2 part automotive clear coat for a fuel proof FINISH.

If you have a good automotive paint store near you, they can mix up the two part paint and put it in a can. The problem is that it will only be good for 2 or 3 days.

Dru.

P.S. I have had good luck with Pactra in the 8 once can that you put into your own spray gun. I just had to thin it way more then they said.

spuck5644

mpriestley,
My Favorite is the DuPont ChromaColor w/ ChromaClear over.
These are 2 part paints, shoot easy, but I suggest a respirator.
I use a small HVLP gun and always have been happy with the results. The DuPont guys can custom mix ANY color for you in any amounts using their "ChromaVision" scanner. My local shop will mix 2-4 oz. for me if that is all I need, (like for a trim color). I take samaples of the covering I'm matching and they do their VooDoo and all I have to do is shoot it and take the credit.

Check your local yellow pages for DuPont.

Steve

mpriestley

My Feedback: (1)

Anyone no if the Pactra primer will react with an automotive paint like dupont?

I am not ready to purchase paint but I want to do the primer this weekend. just want to make sure that most of the auto paints out there will be ok on top of the Pactra Primer or other recommended primers.

Really appreciate the help here guys.

You know.... all that work building, dong want to screw it up with a poor paint job.

Mr_Scale

My Feedback: (7)

It is always best to use a primer specific to the paint, i.e. Dupont paint, Dupont primer. If that is not possible I would strongly recommend that you do a test piece to check compatibility.

gilcon

Try Radio South http://www.radiosouthrc.com/.

Tony will match your sample and mix up small amounts of PPG Concept. He also ships to California. I just purchased paint and primer from him and it came out great. Note, we can't get the Concept or A36 primer locally in California anymore. Good luck.

Hall

pmw

My Feedback: (1)

I agree that Dupont's ChromaBase and ChromaClear system is a great paint. It is a two part system and you must use a respirator system or you are taking a big chance of permanent lung damage. It is also very heavy and I would not use it on a model aiplane unless, as I said, I was building for show. If you are going to use this or any other base coat, clear coat system, I would recommend you use the same company's primer. The characteristic of the base coat is similar to laquer and may lift the Pactra primer.

Also, I have used Rustoleum paint on my models for 25 years and have never had any problem with fuel proofing. You have to let the paint cure for several days but the end result is a very fuel proof poly-urethane finish. Rustoleum is also sold in brush on cans which can be thinned for spraying, but the color choices are limited and the supply is hard to find.

If you want to use a spray gun then I would talk to the paint man and ask him about acrylic enamels. They are lighter than the two stage paints and cheaper. But, you can't really sand them if you goof up, so shoot straight the first time.

Good luck.

mpriestley

My Feedback: (1)

You guys are the best,

Sounds like I still have a bit of research to do but that is the info I needed to hear.

Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated.

p.s. one other Q. do I need to worry about the bondo?
I would not expect any problems but let me know if I should be concerned about the primer or paint sticking to it or making shade spots or other imperfections.

pmw

My Feedback: (1)

As far as my experience with Bondo filler and glazing compound, I have never found anything that did not give good coverage and adhesion over it. I use the putty very sparingly and only over fiberglass. Then I use the surface glazing putty ( red tube ) to fill imperfections in the Bondo surface. I also use the glazing putty applied directly to ABS plastic after lightly sanding and cleaning the surface. For wood, I use a good hobby putty and after I spray the first coat of primer, I then fill the imperfections with the glazing putty applied directly to the primer surface before sanding the primer. Repeat as many times as necessary and you'll end up with a flawless surface for your paint.

Good luck!

susquach

My Feedback: (1)

Hey you all,

Has anyone used Sig's SkyBright line of paint?

KJohn

It seems to me that when looking at Rustoleum the can for the spray paint had wording that did not match the can for non-spray. As if there was a difference in the contents of the paint. It seems to me it was somethings having to do with an oil that was in one but not in the other.

Also, I found that if I shoot primer from a can onto fiberglass I have to wait about five days before sanding. If I tried to sand before that amount of time had elapsed there was a good chance the the sandpaper would load up very easily so I assumed the paint was not completely dry. After five days I could sand to my heart's content. So I made it a practice to prime then let the fuselage remain idle for five days before doing anything with it.

pdmarsh

This is all great info for me as well since I am getting back into building after a 20-year hiatus from the hobby.

To PMW -- Regarding Rustoleum, is the gray paint actually labeled as primer, or are you using finish gray as a primer?

Thanks,
Paul

pmw

My Feedback: (1)

Paul,

The gray primer is labeled as primer. They also make a red primer but that is more for covering bare metal as a rust preventative. The gray has more fill material and is a true sandable primer. It can be sanded wet or dry and has the same qualities as any good auto primer that you would find in an auto paint store. But, none of the hassles of mixing and cleaning. Also the spray pattern seems to be a little better than some of the other types on the market and it has more fill material than the other types I've used including the hobby paints.

One final note, remember that poly-urethanes (any rust preventive type of paint) and enamels (most auto spray can paints) are NOT sandable. You can sand lacquers, which are not fuel proof. Epoxies are very hard to sand because the surface is so hard. Color coat/clear coat auto paints are designed to be sanded and polished to a very high gloss ( i.e. show cars). The longer the drying time, the longer the surface flow which results in a higher gloss. By nature, Rustoleum has a very long cure time and therefore a better gloss than spray can auto enamels. If you want a fast drying paint job, use an automotive enamel. If your not in a hurry, a poly-urethane will give a little better gloss. But poly is heavy and you have to watch for runs. What you spray is what you got with poly or enamel because it cannot be sanded.

pdmarsh

Great info, PMW. In my case, I'm building an A-10 that I intend to final coat with matte gray. Anything special I need to know on getting a good matte finish?

Paul

briankenney91

My Feedback: (1)

If you need any help with using auto paint email me your questions and I will tell you I worked in a body shop for a good while and have done my fair share of painting.

pmw

My Feedback: (1)

Paul,

I think I would use a good hobby paint to get the color and gloss correct. If you are going to use off the shelf paint, you can top coat with a semi-gloss clear coat. Remember, the primers are lacquer based and are NOT fuel proof. I'm not aware of a flat clear coat but the down side to this method is going to be weight. You can achieve a beautiful flat finish with the hobby paints. The only military type I've used was the Chevron brand and I had pretty good luck with it.

Hope this helps.