gixxernoob

I change my savage (Axial .28) differential last week and after half a gallon through it the differential just quit on me... what gives? Is there a proper way of assembling the differential? i.e. proper torq, how much lube that needs to be in there... My stock differential lasted me 3 motors and several gallons and now this new 4 diff didn't even make it a gallon... Btw I'm not even bashing it just running it on the pavement...

cummins driver

My Feedback: (31)

Yes, you need to shim the differential properly with the HPI shim kit, or it wont last. It needs to be as tight as you can get it without it binding. Do a search and there are a couple write ups on how to do it. If the mesh is too loose, it will strip the gears over time just like if you engine to transmission gear mesh were too loose.

gixxernoob

Found the article thanx.... http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_89...tm.htm#9039221

Btw what do you think about just running the back i.e. 2wd instead of 4wd would it just quit on me?

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

no its pretty fun to drive i've done it before but after doing so when you go back to 4wd you'll wonder why you ever went 2wd driving a purpose built 2wd truck is fine but a 4wd that should be 2 is skechy

the lug

cummins driver

My Feedback: (31)

It will run fine as a 2wd, but expect a lot of wheelspin, powerslides, and a lot more spinning around trying to get traction[8D]

wipeout2097

A purpose-built 2WD RC car has different suspension geometry and weight distribution in order to have proper traction and steering. And in your case, you will put all the power of the engine on one differential so that could potentially be an issue too.

gixxernoob

I see that a few people already tried 2WD on the Savage but will my diff last if I keep on doing it? How many gallons before it would just chew itself up?

NotSoSilentBob

I personally recommend that once the stock Savage Differential goes out that people upgrade to the CEN Diffs. It takes some know how with parts but once you know Diffs assembly and have it down pat The teeth on the CEN setup are 10x stronger then the stock Savage setup.

If you are interested

http://www.rcbasher.com/savcendiffs.html

in it here is the How-to with part numbers and pictures.


NSSB

wipeout2097

I suppose that the new Bulletproof diffs from HPI for the Savage are just as tough as the CENs.
Just my 2 cents because I didn't actually compare them but people have fitted them on Savage Fluxes that on 6S LiPo tend to break the original super heavy duty diffs. The bulletproof ones seem to handle all that power without issues.

Cheers

gixxernoob

Cool I'll look into the CEN diffs... thanx!

dracy69

My Feedback: (1)

buy the Savage Flux diffs if its becoming that much of an issue for you

whipnet

You never mentioned how you know your diff is blown? Does it click?
Most of the time it's just a loose set screw in your driveline cups. That should always be checked first if it was not.

And I have the CEN diffs. Worth it to me.
http://www.rccoh.com/rc.how-to/savage.cen.diffs.html

*

gixxernoob

I opened the diff and all the gears are chewed up... BTW does any body know if this http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/86826/ has lube in it already?