Blue or Red loc tite on DA50 standoffs?
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Blue or Red loc tite on DA50 standoffs?
Everybody has a different opinion about this, it seems. Just wanted to see what the board members think.
I have a DA50 hard mounted on a 1/4 scale Edge. I'm concerned about which loc tite to use on the engine standoffs, behind the firewall, AND where they bolt to the engine itself. Also the muffler bolts.
I did a little experiment with red loc tite last night. I put some on a phillips head screw on an old wrecked plane's engine mount. This afternoon I went back to try and loosen the screw, and it required a little torque to remove it, but when it came out, the red loc tite was still wet after 12-16 hours! There was no oil residue on the screw either. What is the deal here fellas?
I have a DA50 hard mounted on a 1/4 scale Edge. I'm concerned about which loc tite to use on the engine standoffs, behind the firewall, AND where they bolt to the engine itself. Also the muffler bolts.
I did a little experiment with red loc tite last night. I put some on a phillips head screw on an old wrecked plane's engine mount. This afternoon I went back to try and loosen the screw, and it required a little torque to remove it, but when it came out, the red loc tite was still wet after 12-16 hours! There was no oil residue on the screw either. What is the deal here fellas?
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Blue or Red loc tite on DA50 standoffs?
euqor,
I understand what blue and red is advertised to do!
However, it has been many peoples experience that the blue sometimes doesn't work at all, and the red I've also seen not work. However I know some that swear that red is permanent.
I'm just wanting to know what you guys are using on standoff bolts and muffler bolts.
I did a search and I couldn't really find a thread on what guys are using for engine standoffs on 50cc and larger gas engines. Thanks for your comments though.
I understand what blue and red is advertised to do!
However, it has been many peoples experience that the blue sometimes doesn't work at all, and the red I've also seen not work. However I know some that swear that red is permanent.
I'm just wanting to know what you guys are using on standoff bolts and muffler bolts.
I did a search and I couldn't really find a thread on what guys are using for engine standoffs on 50cc and larger gas engines. Thanks for your comments though.
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Blue or Red loc tite on DA50 standoffs?
Originally posted by Paul Cataldo
I did a search and I couldn't really find a thread on what guys are using for engine standoffs on 50cc and larger gas engines. Thanks for your comments though.
I did a search and I couldn't really find a thread on what guys are using for engine standoffs on 50cc and larger gas engines. Thanks for your comments though.
got you.
I use blue on all my gas engines. I have 3 giant aerobatic planes equipped with Zenoah G-62 and the blue loctite works fine for me.
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Blue or Red loc tite on DA50 standoffs?
In 10+ years I have never ever had a blue Loctite screw come loose on me after the glue has cured (24 hours typically)
Gerry Rosebery
Gerry Rosebery
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Blue or Red loc tite on DA50 standoffs?
You want tightest, use 680 green...No Loctite is completely premanent, heat loosens all grades...Green takes the most heat to remove.....
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Blue or Red loc tite on DA50 standoffs?
Thanks fellas.
What do you guys think about Permatex Red Gasket Silicone as a thread locker?
Slimline recommended it to use for a gasket seal with my Pitts Style muffler. I talked to some guys at the field and they also use this red silicone in place of loc tite. Anyone else do this? Thanks.
What do you guys think about Permatex Red Gasket Silicone as a thread locker?
Slimline recommended it to use for a gasket seal with my Pitts Style muffler. I talked to some guys at the field and they also use this red silicone in place of loc tite. Anyone else do this? Thanks.
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High Heat RTV
I use Ultra Copper too...very high heat stuff. I use it for header gasket material. It's good stuff. It handles the high heat on exaust better than the red. I did try red in the beginning, but this stuff was recommended and went to that, and it did seem to hold up better.
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use it sparingly
Which ever type of gasket material you use. Make sure you use just enough to fill the imperfections in the surfaces you are trying to seal.
It should be thin enough to look transparent. Like the haze of wax on the hood of your Ferrari.
Also on Thread lock compounds most people forget to clean both the screw/bolt and the nut/hole with a non-residue leaving cleaner. If there is any oil residue at all, the thread lock has nothing to bond to.
HTH,
Scott
It should be thin enough to look transparent. Like the haze of wax on the hood of your Ferrari.
Also on Thread lock compounds most people forget to clean both the screw/bolt and the nut/hole with a non-residue leaving cleaner. If there is any oil residue at all, the thread lock has nothing to bond to.
HTH,
Scott
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Blue or Red loc tite on DA50 standoffs?
Here you go guys
Loctite>
http://www.loctite.com/catalog/categ...ProductLine=10
And Permatex>
http://permatex.com/products/prodidx...=Threadlockers
The green that RCIGN1 speeks of is a penetraing grade for preassembled parts that is very strong!
If you take a look you will see that there are more than one red grade of thread locker, some strong, some for high heat, on and on. there are even some that are two part. Hope this helps.
Doug
Loctite>
http://www.loctite.com/catalog/categ...ProductLine=10
And Permatex>
http://permatex.com/products/prodidx...=Threadlockers
The green that RCIGN1 speeks of is a penetraing grade for preassembled parts that is very strong!
If you take a look you will see that there are more than one red grade of thread locker, some strong, some for high heat, on and on. there are even some that are two part. Hope this helps.
Doug
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Blue or Red loc tite on DA50 standoffs?
Actually i am using 680 green, shaft and bearing mount..I mignt change to 638 green, good up to 450F and almost as strong..Not exactly made for threads, but REALLY holds..I have twisted off a 2-56 Allen screw and a 4-40 brass carb plate screw by not heating first.....
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Blue or Red loc tite on DA50 standoffs?
I use both the blue locktite and also the ultra copper rtv on screws and bolts with great success. I used the blue locktite on my DA-50 standoff bolts and did'nt have any loosening! I use the rtv where the screw is going into wood(i.e. cowl screws!) beause the wood will absorb the locktite and have little to no effect.
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Blue or Red loc tite on DA50 standoffs?
I ue blue too...
The brand is Titen...
Make sure you sjake the daylights out of the tube and even kneed it a bit... the "ingredients" can seperate and you may have put in a very thin version of red...
I use the Silicone Titen for the muffler bolts...
The brand is Titen...
Make sure you sjake the daylights out of the tube and even kneed it a bit... the "ingredients" can seperate and you may have put in a very thin version of red...
I use the Silicone Titen for the muffler bolts...
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Blue or Red loc tite on DA50 standoffs?
OH... and I also will let the stuff set for a couple minutes BEFORE I put the screw in... seems to let it start to cure faster and "sets up" a tad for a more greasy texture instead of like water or light oil...