103" bleriot undercarrage
07-20-2003, 07:10 AM
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103" bleriot undercarrage
Hi,
Looking through some plans,i came across a large X1 bleriot bomber,WS around 103",with a 90fs upfront,i also found some ready cut ribs,which are correct in profile etc ,so thinking this might be a project,to start very shortly,i looked over the undercart,now this is drawn fully detailed,springs and all,the full monty!!.
It was looking like,i was not going to be able to reproduce this cart in a scale manner,and i am thinking that there must be a different easier way of making an undercart,i have come up with one or two ideas,build frame from hard wood,or ali ,but i have no idea on wood/ali thickness,then running an axle below frame etc,and will it take the loads,as there will be not much in the way of springing?
If you have an suggestions,or ideas,a drawing of a suitable method,it would make my day,heard that before somewhere?!
Many thanks inadvance
Eindecker
Looking through some plans,i came across a large X1 bleriot bomber,WS around 103",with a 90fs upfront,i also found some ready cut ribs,which are correct in profile etc ,so thinking this might be a project,to start very shortly,i looked over the undercart,now this is drawn fully detailed,springs and all,the full monty!!.
It was looking like,i was not going to be able to reproduce this cart in a scale manner,and i am thinking that there must be a different easier way of making an undercart,i have come up with one or two ideas,build frame from hard wood,or ali ,but i have no idea on wood/ali thickness,then running an axle below frame etc,and will it take the loads,as there will be not much in the way of springing?
If you have an suggestions,or ideas,a drawing of a suitable method,it would make my day,heard that before somewhere?!
Many thanks inadvance
Eindecker
07-20-2003, 11:13 PM
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103" bleriot undercarrage
Rodger,
Hope this is ok,its top down,couldnt send sideways,but should give you agood idea.i might have another pic,of front view,will post that if need be.
If a close up shot would help,on any part of that cart,just give us the word,and i will download pic
Eindecker
Hope this is ok,its top down,couldnt send sideways,but should give you agood idea.i might have another pic,of front view,will post that if need be.
If a close up shot would help,on any part of that cart,just give us the word,and i will download pic
Eindecker
07-21-2003, 06:01 AM
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103" bleriot undercarrage
That's about as complex an arrangement as I've ever seen. Seems a shame to build such a neat model without making the undercarriage to scale.
It looks like the wooden framing is rigidly mounted to the fuse and reinforced by a threaded rod going to the crossmember just behind the engine's cylinder head.
Then there's a trailing link going back to the axle, and a spring link going from the axle up to the side of the fuselage.
I'm a bit confused about the spring link. It looks like it's all one piece, but the holes shown near the middle look like they would be for pins to locate the spring. This would usually be two pieces of telescoping brass tubing.
One of the problems you'll have to solve if you go to a different U/C is the attachment points in the fuselage. It also looks like the U/C might serve as the anchor for some of the rigging for the wings. All of this argues for spending the extra time to build it to the drawing.
Do you have a parts list that gives you the name and more information about the numbered parts? You might find some of the pieces to put this together at: http://www.mrmodels.fsnet.co.uk/p2bipe.htm
Scroll down the page and look under biplane parts. You might find some other sources if you do a Google search for "scale rigging".
If you decide to go the non-scale route, just bend up a gear using 3/16" music wire. Make it so you can attach it to the crossmembers in the bottom of the fuselage shown on the drawing. If you like the way the plane flies, you'll be able to make the scale gear later to dress the plane up some.
Roger
It looks like the wooden framing is rigidly mounted to the fuse and reinforced by a threaded rod going to the crossmember just behind the engine's cylinder head.
Then there's a trailing link going back to the axle, and a spring link going from the axle up to the side of the fuselage.
I'm a bit confused about the spring link. It looks like it's all one piece, but the holes shown near the middle look like they would be for pins to locate the spring. This would usually be two pieces of telescoping brass tubing.
One of the problems you'll have to solve if you go to a different U/C is the attachment points in the fuselage. It also looks like the U/C might serve as the anchor for some of the rigging for the wings. All of this argues for spending the extra time to build it to the drawing.
Do you have a parts list that gives you the name and more information about the numbered parts? You might find some of the pieces to put this together at: http://www.mrmodels.fsnet.co.uk/p2bipe.htm
Scroll down the page and look under biplane parts. You might find some other sources if you do a Google search for "scale rigging".
If you decide to go the non-scale route, just bend up a gear using 3/16" music wire. Make it so you can attach it to the crossmembers in the bottom of the fuselage shown on the drawing. If you like the way the plane flies, you'll be able to make the scale gear later to dress the plane up some.
Roger
07-21-2003, 09:33 AM
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103" bleriot undercarrage
Rodger,
Thank you for your advise,your right,it would be a shame not to give the full u/c ago,but as you said,if i were to go down the root,of using some wire,i could build as per plan the wooden frame,and attach the wire work in away that in future,if all goes well,and i have the time ,a scale u/c could be installed in its place.
I seem to think that the royal kit,was built,very much like that,a wood frame and a standard bent up u/c,attached,i think this looks like the way to go.
I have one more question that you might be able to help me on,the rear longerons are spruce,but plan shows a splice,just behind the covered top front section,i was wondering if i should wrap the splice in strong thread etc,to make sure it wont come adrift on hard landings etc,or am i going over the top??!!,i dont like the idea of splicing much,and being on the longeron,it seems a bad idea.its there were the direction changes as it goes towards front of aircraft ,were it also changes again after a short lengh to run flush with bottom longeron, once again spliced,anyway,what the the best method to use on spliced longerons,any help always very welcome
Great pic,now thats flying by the seat of your pants!!!!,and yes on the MR site,i have his 1/4 pup waiting to be built at some stage!!
Cheers
Eindecker
Thank you for your advise,your right,it would be a shame not to give the full u/c ago,but as you said,if i were to go down the root,of using some wire,i could build as per plan the wooden frame,and attach the wire work in away that in future,if all goes well,and i have the time ,a scale u/c could be installed in its place.
I seem to think that the royal kit,was built,very much like that,a wood frame and a standard bent up u/c,attached,i think this looks like the way to go.
I have one more question that you might be able to help me on,the rear longerons are spruce,but plan shows a splice,just behind the covered top front section,i was wondering if i should wrap the splice in strong thread etc,to make sure it wont come adrift on hard landings etc,or am i going over the top??!!,i dont like the idea of splicing much,and being on the longeron,it seems a bad idea.its there were the direction changes as it goes towards front of aircraft ,were it also changes again after a short lengh to run flush with bottom longeron, once again spliced,anyway,what the the best method to use on spliced longerons,any help always very welcome
Great pic,now thats flying by the seat of your pants!!!!,and yes on the MR site,i have his 1/4 pup waiting to be built at some stage!!
Cheers
Eindecker
07-21-2003, 10:25 AM
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103" bleriot undercarrage
I avoid splicing if I can. I have a bandsaw and planer to cut my own wood to the size and length I need, but occasionally it's still necessary.
I'd wrap the splice with Dacron thread after it's been sanded to round the outer corner (if that's required). Tower sells little spools of it as 1/2A flying line. Saturate it with something like Elmer's carpenter glue. (I never use CA for something important.)
You could also use plywood splice plates. That might be easier since you could put them on the two sides where you won't be sanding to round the corner.
The X1 looks like a fine project. Hope it goes well.
Roger
I'd wrap the splice with Dacron thread after it's been sanded to round the outer corner (if that's required). Tower sells little spools of it as 1/2A flying line. Saturate it with something like Elmer's carpenter glue. (I never use CA for something important.)
You could also use plywood splice plates. That might be easier since you could put them on the two sides where you won't be sanding to round the corner.
The X1 looks like a fine project. Hope it goes well.
Roger
