biggy_boie

i picked up an older fiberglass deep v on the weekend it had a trim and wack in it but the guy just picked up a new fuji28 with pipe (i know they are a pain). so he threw it in, over all it was all under 100 bucks. i already have a lap cat 7.5cc for the flat day and was lookinng for more of a fun wave boat. maybe you have some ideas on what it is and a good set up for it, its 38long 13.5 wide 6.5 deep. it had a flimsy strut and rudder so im looking to change the whole rear end (any ideas?)

biggy_boie

some more pics

biggy_boie

well the boat has been stripped down almost an 1/8" of paint which should save on weight. all holes filled and im ready to start mounting the new hardware. i was looking for a post i read a few weeks ago about prop offset and now i cant find it, what would you recommend . heres a pic of the rudder set i have. more questions are to come.

nieto1124

My Feedback: (14)

looks like a PRATHER?

Scott Schneider

No ... not a Prather hull.
It does resemble one of the old DUMAS deep V's. They were about that long, real deep & wide with a top deck looking quite like what your showing.

nieto1124

My Feedback: (14)

ding ding , i think scotts right . here is a pic of the dumas looks pretty close.
http://www.martysrcboats.com/pix/dumside.jpg

biggy_boie

it dose look close but i dont think it is, some slight differences. what way should i shift the prop/rudder

Scott Schneider

Dug around in my 30+ years of RC literature stuff .... about 99% sure it is a DUMAS DV60 hull [:@]

biggy_boie

did the dumas dv 60 come as a fiberglass hull or just wood build up. my boat it fiberglass

Scott Schneider

Think they did both, but my reference is to the Glass version

* More I think about it, DUMAS would glass in a brand tag on either the top of bottom half. take a look using a mirror inside and see if you spot anything ?
Another thing I remember is that top and bottom halfs are just butt joints, no shoebox or lapp seams done. If a DUMAS you will have just glass tape running the inside edges of top and bottom half's.

biggy_boie

it has so many layers of paint its hard to tell what the joint is and no way to see a tag

kay

It is definitely a Dumas DeepVee .60. They used to make two versions of three sizes. Fiberglass and wood kit. You have the .60 size in fiberglass. The kit came deck and hull to be joined. I have built all three versions. Not a very easy kit to build as you need to get the tape inside the hull.

Dumas later released the stretched versions, designated CF (competition fiberglass). The .40 version CF .40 shared the same hull as the Scarab 377. The CF 60 shared the same hull as the Scarab 60.

biggy_boie

is it going to be a decent hull for small chop and a lot of fun. its hard to find any info on the dv 60.

kay

What information do you need? I built one in the 70's. It was not an easy build as joining the deck to the hull required putting tapes inside the joint. It was very difficult to put the tape in the front with a small opening.

The boat was released originally for hard articulated drive with a u-joint under the hull. Later Dumas released the cable drive but still placed the prop under the hull fully submerged. With the high freeboard, it can survive pretty rough water.

The boat leaned a lot into the turn almost ride on the side. At times it can spin out.

If I were to find another kit again, I would probably built it with sub-surface outdrive.

biggy_boie

thanks for the info. i am going to put the prop center at the very bottom of the hull. it did used to have it under the boat but i filled the hole. did the boat have a bulk head im the front of the boat? also did the stringers go down the whole length as mine is only about 8" long just for the motor.

Scott Schneider

DV60's I have seen had no bulkheads, only wood on transom area. Stringers were shorties just under engine area, tho full length would be nice if bottom is not too badly hooked allowing them to be flat

Yea, I remember seeing some run years ago laying over on an inside lean one moment them high side leaning the next ... Damn I'm old

kay

The boat was supposed to be built with two bulkheads. One in front of the engine mounting blocks and the other in the rear to form the RC compartment. The wood they provided was luan door skin material and very flimsy. I used the material and regretted it.

The engine mounting blocks were simply two triangle pieces of Redwood about 3/4" thick. You bolt the plate mount Dumas sell to the blocks and bolt the engine to the plate. If I were to build another one again, I would replace those with 1/4" ply rails that run to the transom.

If you leave out the bulkheads, the deck will sag over time

biggy_boie

mine dosnt have any bulkheads any more but there are signs of them the deck seems to be super ridged. i think i might remake the rails to the transom

timjz

My Feedback: (1)

Defiantly a Dumas, here's my Dumas DV-40 with a K&B 3.5 on it. I love it, it's a tank. It was my first "real" r/c boat, & the only one I'll never sell.

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

The DV 60 is a great rough water boat. When I worked at an IMPBA Internat's, a past President was racing one. I was laughing on the inside as I was wondering why he would race this boat. The water conditions were terrible when he ran and kept bringing it home every heat while the "race boats" were wallowing in the chop.

kay

Sorry for getting off topic...
How does the DV .40 run with the 3.5 outboard? Does it handle well?
Reason why I asked...I have a Dumas CF .20 still in a box and I am considering bolting a .20 outboard to it. The .40 is a larger boat. What kind of speed do you get?

timjz

My Feedback: (1)

The boat runs ok, I put the gps in it once & got 26 mph.