Programming problem on new isobar
07-25-2003, 01:33 AM
#1
Programming problem on new isobar
Guys, we just finished wiring everything up and went to start programming and the only channel for the mini hobby brake valve is aux 4. Please don't suggest another channel, we used every of all 10 channels up and becuase of the refresh rate, steering had to go on aux five and brakes on aux 4.
So, I went to my 10 and turned off the aux 4 knob which would be impossible to use anyway.
I made a mix of aux 4 to aux 4 and made it changeable by the snap roll button.
Tried 5 differenct ways of changing units etc, hold button this that and the other and can't get it to work.
If anyone has a setup on the bench that they can get this to work, please post me some instructions. We are dead in the water on this issue.
Thanks in advance.
So, I went to my 10 and turned off the aux 4 knob which would be impossible to use anyway.
I made a mix of aux 4 to aux 4 and made it changeable by the snap roll button.
Tried 5 differenct ways of changing units etc, hold button this that and the other and can't get it to work.
If anyone has a setup on the bench that they can get this to work, please post me some instructions. We are dead in the water on this issue.
Thanks in advance.
07-25-2003, 01:56 AM
#3
Programming problem on new isobar
I have two non-reversed servos. They are mixed reverse. I'm really really stuck here. But I just know you could not resist to push that monster transmitter. It's just my hands like my (ahem) are just not big enough for that beast. LOL
07-25-2003, 05:40 AM
#4
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Programming problem on new isobar
Sean, is it similar to the jet tronic valve?, I Y'd mine in with the elevators and then programed the valve. I am flying 9 channels on an eight channel radio.
Chris
Chris
07-25-2003, 10:00 AM
#5
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Programming problem on new isobar
OK, I see. I know that this is again probably not the solution that you wanted, but here goes: get two nice MPX or Hitec digital servos and program one of them reversed then Y them off.
Another solution: Eddie has flown his Isos from day one with eight channels. One trick he uses to accomplish this is that he runs his retract valve and brake valve off of one channel. When the retract valve/servo is in the down position, it travels further in that same direction to push on the brake valve, mixed with elevator. Very ingenious and frees up a channel.
Wait a minute. By my count, even if you have both aileron servos, both elevators, and nose gear/rudder on separate channels, 10 should still be enough. What you got, turbine eject taking a channel???
Let us know what you finally decide. Take care.
Another solution: Eddie has flown his Isos from day one with eight channels. One trick he uses to accomplish this is that he runs his retract valve and brake valve off of one channel. When the retract valve/servo is in the down position, it travels further in that same direction to push on the brake valve, mixed with elevator. Very ingenious and frees up a channel.
Wait a minute. By my count, even if you have both aileron servos, both elevators, and nose gear/rudder on separate channels, 10 should still be enough. What you got, turbine eject taking a channel???
Let us know what you finally decide. Take care.
07-25-2003, 12:10 PM
#6
Programming problem on new isobar
I just got a phone call from Bob Covish. Suggestion was a matchbox on the flaps, that would free up the channel for the brakes. If no one comes up with a software solution, I'm gonna go with this option. I don't think I'd be willing to set up with down elevator this that and the other for the braking system. it has to be congruent with my other jets. I'm not that bright.
As far as Eddie's option, is he really using the mini hobbies brake valve? I don't think that thing works with crazy programming like you're suggesting. Cause I tried every way last night to get that blasted thing to work the way I want it to, and all I ended up doing is wasting a lot of time.
PS, EDDIE AND ROCKETMAN, HOW MUCH DO YOUR ISOBARS WEIGH DRY? MINE CAME OUT AT JUST UNDER 29 LBS. WE WEIGHED IT LAST NIGHT. THAT'S WITH UAT FULL.
As far as Eddie's option, is he really using the mini hobbies brake valve? I don't think that thing works with crazy programming like you're suggesting. Cause I tried every way last night to get that blasted thing to work the way I want it to, and all I ended up doing is wasting a lot of time.
PS, EDDIE AND ROCKETMAN, HOW MUCH DO YOUR ISOBARS WEIGH DRY? MINE CAME OUT AT JUST UNDER 29 LBS. WE WEIGHED IT LAST NIGHT. THAT'S WITH UAT FULL.
07-25-2003, 12:33 PM
#7
Programming problem on new isobar
10 channels is enough Rocketman. However, JR did this incredibly dumb thing (in my opinion). They set channels 9 and 10 so that they can not be computer mixed with any other channels that you want to run at the same speed! You can't put one elevator servo in channel elevator and one in channel 9 or 10. The one in channel 9 or 10 moves at half speed.
So I put mine as
channel 1 throttle
2 ailerons Y'ed
3 elevator
4 rudder servo
5 gear
6 flap 1
7 elevator 2
8 flap 2
9 wheel brakes
10 The steering servo
Come to think of it, I may have to upgrade to that fancy transmitter you've got Mark. If I get heavy into 10 channel airplanes or better, the matchbox could get expensive. Still hope someone comes up with a programming solution.
So I put mine as
channel 1 throttle
2 ailerons Y'ed
3 elevator
4 rudder servo
5 gear
6 flap 1
7 elevator 2
8 flap 2
9 wheel brakes
10 The steering servo
Come to think of it, I may have to upgrade to that fancy transmitter you've got Mark. If I get heavy into 10 channel airplanes or better, the matchbox could get expensive. Still hope someone comes up with a programming solution.
07-25-2003, 02:31 PM
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Brakes on Snap Roll button on 10X
Sean:
The setup for 10X software is as follows:
1. Go to menu 17 and toggle aux 4 so it is active. You have to do this to set the offset, which is the end of travel in the "off" or no button pushed position.
2. Set up your aux4 --> aux4 mix on whatever # you have open, i.e. 51, 52, 53......
3.On page 2 of the mix menu, activate SNP toggle....On page 3, be sure it says, MASTER/NORM
4.Now go back to the mix channel and touch "store" under the offset .....what you are looking for is +55 to +86.......+55 works fine with my Smooth Stop, and +86 works with my Jetronic, UP-6 and MH valves. The way you adjust it is by rotating the active Aux 4 knob to one extreme or the other, one extreme, say 7 o'clock will give a +86, and the other extreme, say 5 o'clock will give you -86...and somewhere in between gives you +55 or whatever....This setting is most critical for the SS, since if you don't have the servo in the correct "off" and "on" positions, it will leak air......it is much less critical with the other units....you just have to be careful you don't stall the servo with a UP-6 setup....
5. Now unless you want the brakes on the Aux 4 knob AND the Snap Roll button (you do this if you want proportional brakes to set partial on, best done with the Smooth Stop or UP-6) go back to menu 17 and disable Aux 4.
6. Go back to your mix #, say 51.. with the Snap roll button in the off position (0), zero both travels....then hold down the Snap Roll button so it is in the "on" position (1) and set the lower travel to -150 and keep the upper travel at (0)....... and you are done with the 10X
7. Now, using the 10X settings from above, re-program the MH valve for off and on and you are done....
This is the basic setup.....just remember, there is interaction between the offset and the travel settings on the Mix, so theoretically, you can have allot of different combos that work. You also can use a (-)offset, like -86, but then you have to start reversing channels.
It gets a little more "cut and try" if you want the aux 4 knob or the aux 3 slider to remain active to pre-set brakes, since moving the slider also also interacts with the snap roll button. With the MH, I set mine up strictly as Snap Roll button off/on.....KISS, but with the Smooth Stop, which I have on Aux 3 on my Bandit, I keep the Right slider active so I can preset brakes before landing and when parked.
All the comments about freeing up channels are reasonable....but if I don't have to add another gizmo that might fail into the plane, I feel more comfortable...I was told (unconfirmed) that Kemp Gallineau crashed a BobCat, when the Matchbox on his elevator died----->no elevator control....I currently have no MatchBox(s) in my Bandit....run everything with mixes or "y's".....I plan to set up my IsoBar the same way....
Tom
Now, getting back to that $9.00 fan bolt.....:>)
The setup for 10X software is as follows:
1. Go to menu 17 and toggle aux 4 so it is active. You have to do this to set the offset, which is the end of travel in the "off" or no button pushed position.
2. Set up your aux4 --> aux4 mix on whatever # you have open, i.e. 51, 52, 53......
3.On page 2 of the mix menu, activate SNP toggle....On page 3, be sure it says, MASTER/NORM
4.Now go back to the mix channel and touch "store" under the offset .....what you are looking for is +55 to +86.......+55 works fine with my Smooth Stop, and +86 works with my Jetronic, UP-6 and MH valves. The way you adjust it is by rotating the active Aux 4 knob to one extreme or the other, one extreme, say 7 o'clock will give a +86, and the other extreme, say 5 o'clock will give you -86...and somewhere in between gives you +55 or whatever....This setting is most critical for the SS, since if you don't have the servo in the correct "off" and "on" positions, it will leak air......it is much less critical with the other units....you just have to be careful you don't stall the servo with a UP-6 setup....
5. Now unless you want the brakes on the Aux 4 knob AND the Snap Roll button (you do this if you want proportional brakes to set partial on, best done with the Smooth Stop or UP-6) go back to menu 17 and disable Aux 4.
6. Go back to your mix #, say 51.. with the Snap roll button in the off position (0), zero both travels....then hold down the Snap Roll button so it is in the "on" position (1) and set the lower travel to -150 and keep the upper travel at (0)....... and you are done with the 10X
7. Now, using the 10X settings from above, re-program the MH valve for off and on and you are done....
This is the basic setup.....just remember, there is interaction between the offset and the travel settings on the Mix, so theoretically, you can have allot of different combos that work. You also can use a (-)offset, like -86, but then you have to start reversing channels.
It gets a little more "cut and try" if you want the aux 4 knob or the aux 3 slider to remain active to pre-set brakes, since moving the slider also also interacts with the snap roll button. With the MH, I set mine up strictly as Snap Roll button off/on.....KISS, but with the Smooth Stop, which I have on Aux 3 on my Bandit, I keep the Right slider active so I can preset brakes before landing and when parked.
All the comments about freeing up channels are reasonable....but if I don't have to add another gizmo that might fail into the plane, I feel more comfortable...I was told (unconfirmed) that Kemp Gallineau crashed a BobCat, when the Matchbox on his elevator died----->no elevator control....I currently have no MatchBox(s) in my Bandit....run everything with mixes or "y's".....I plan to set up my IsoBar the same way....
Tom
Now, getting back to that $9.00 fan bolt.....:>)
07-25-2003, 02:55 PM
#11
I love it!!
Originally posted by Tom Antlfinger
I was told (unconfirmed) that Kemp Gallineau crashed a BobCat, when the Matchbox on his elevator died----->no elevator control....
I was told (unconfirmed) that Kemp Gallineau crashed a BobCat, when the Matchbox on his elevator died----->no elevator control....
Hey Tom, do you want a second career as a Linux programmer, sounds like you have the skills!! I was getting woozy reading that!!
I should have bought that Isobar fuse from Eddie, I really enjoyed those planes at Florida Jets.
07-25-2003, 02:59 PM
#12
My Feedback: (6)
Programming problem on new isobar
Sean, just Y the flaps and move either one flap servo to one side a bit to compensate for the servos both going the same direction or (if the servo is already installed) just move the control horn on one flap. It ain't gonna make any difference what so ever in how she flies!!!!
07-25-2003, 04:07 PM
#13
Programming problem on new isobar
Rocketman, while I love your idea, the guys I fly with would disown me if I switched that arm over on the flap. Instead, I'm going to really try hard to follow tom's instructions this evening. Between the three of us, we ought to be able to totally lock ourselves out of programming mode on that transmitter, break three servos, mame Dan or Doug, and kick Toby (the dog). Looks complicated, but we'll figure it out. As a backup plan, I bought a matchbox on the way to the office today.
We'll see.
Sean
We'll see.
Sean
07-26-2003, 07:31 AM
#18
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Isobar Program
I flew my Isobar with a Futaba 8U, no problem. And it had flaps, brakes, Robart retracts, etc, all the usual stuff.
It weighed 27 lbs dry. Of course, after the fire, it weighed MUCH less.
It weighed 27 lbs dry. Of course, after the fire, it weighed MUCH less.
