Which weight cloth?
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Which weight cloth?
Allot depends on what's underneath it. Plywood - use the lite weight, Balsa with an open frame work - use .75oz; balsa over foam - use the lite weight.
Also in some cases it depends on what you are using to apply the cloth with.
There really isn't too much weight difference as most of the weight comes from what you use to hold it down,
If you are planning to put 2 layers on the the lite weight or even .25oz cloth, I've got a roll of .25 and it's getting real hard to find. My supplier can no longer get it and doesn't know where it can be found now. If using epoxy use the litest weight you can get.
Also in some cases it depends on what you are using to apply the cloth with.
There really isn't too much weight difference as most of the weight comes from what you use to hold it down,
If you are planning to put 2 layers on the the lite weight or even .25oz cloth, I've got a roll of .25 and it's getting real hard to find. My supplier can no longer get it and doesn't know where it can be found now. If using epoxy use the litest weight you can get.
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Which weight cloth?
Most of the glassing that I have done has been over balsa or ply. If it's a 40 to 60 size I use .56 and anything bigger .75. I apply it with water based Polyurethane and it works great, doesn't smell and clean up with water, but be sure you get the stuff for floors.
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Which weight cloth?
The only problem with using the urethanes is you're not adding any stength just putting glass on to make a more paintable surface.
If I was going to use urethane I'd use some very lite dacron as it is easy to fill and paint, goes on very smooth also.
Just my humble opinion.
If I was going to use urethane I'd use some very lite dacron as it is easy to fill and paint, goes on very smooth also.
Just my humble opinion.
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Which weight cloth?
If that's the case go with the lightest cloth you can find. All the cloth is doing actually is hiding the grain of the balsa giving you a sound base for painting.
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Which weight cloth?
Forgot to mention, if the balsa sheeting is going over an open frame work don't apply heavy coats, I take it you are using the water based urethane, as it will distort the balsa.
The first few coats should go on in an almost dry state (read very lite coats).
The first few coats should go on in an almost dry state (read very lite coats).
#9
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Which weight cloth?
I've gathered that from some of the posts in the other forum about this technique.I've got an old wing i'm going to practice on first.I'm actually looking forward to trying this,I'm pretty much tired of the mess that using resins make.
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Try sealing the balsa first
Before you put down any glass, take a paper towel barely wetted with the urethane and lightly wipe on the bare balsa. Let it flash off, wait ten minutes then lightly sand. This will seal the balsa and make a very light wing.
Darrin C
Darrin C
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KingAirJocky
I have glassed some larger models with epoxy using .75. I can buy this at the local auto parts store for around $20. 1 pint of resin and 1 pint of hardener. Same stuff you build your models with at a fraction of the cost. I thin it with 15% denatured alchohol for a 2 hour pot life. I brush the epoxy over the cloth and then roll out the excess with a roll of T.P. It saves a lot of sanding by rolling out the excess and is easy to do. No other coats are needed, just primer and sanding between the coats of primer. Just something else to consider.
Carey
Carey