The_Shark

I dont know if the same applies today, but people spend SO much money on shiny aluminum parts, arms, towers, bumpers, wheels, mounts- you name it, and most the time these blinged up cars rattle themselves loose and handle like lead tanks, not only that, but strengthening certain parts makes other, more difficult to fix parts break.

and why would one think the $350 new car is now worth $800 because its bliged out?

dont get me wrong alumium has its place, but not every place.

any way, vote for your favorite level of bling.

guver

My Feedback: (325)

I can't vote "none" ?

I have this habit of keeping things very light if possible and using as much plastic as possible. It's cheaper too. I only replace with AL if I break it repeatedly and am forced to do so. (I'm thinking of my e-maxx bulks)

The_Shark

check again, i accidently pressed done[:@]

rc awesome

It'll suck with all aluminum, way to heavy! unless its a shelf queen.

FahrtAutoRC

My carriers and C-hubs are the only aluminum Ill allow, but then again, if you get RPM all around on a CORR truck and STILL keep breaking things, you need to stick with video games cuz you cant drive, my friend :P

378

My Feedback: (4)

Metal in some places is mission critical. Metal in other places just breaks stuff.


I want my arms to be plastic. Plastic gives, then springs back, and that can make the difference between a tumble-and-go and a tumble-and-trip-to-LHS.

SyCo_VeNoM

Chose "Aluminum only on knuckles, shocks, servo mounts and shock towers"
Don't do servo mounts,
BUT I do use aluminum C-hubs on 2 models that had issues with their C-hubs breaking easily.
Plastic knuckles I seem to break on everything but my savage [:@] so I use aluminum on 8 out of 13 or so RC's (2 don't have alum knuckles made even)
rear hubs it depends. Use alum rears on 2 RC's due to issues I had.

Shock towers depends also. Most mine use plastic, but a few the plastics didn't hold up well (DF-02) so I went aluminum. On my MT2 I needed the alum shock tower to rig my wing mount on to or else it would have had plastic towers.

Tried arms those sucked. Broke my diff case open on my MT2 after one jump, and bent the weird sized pin that came with the arms to hold it on.

If it exists for the RC I get RPM plastic for arms.

The_Shark

i myself fit aluminum on anything that braces the chassis, like aluminum braces, servo posts and mounts, and bulkhead braces.

i avoid putting aluminum on any arm, and only fit aluminum towers if the bulkhead and diff are very very strong.

i like aluminum shocks, but they dont make a huge difference, so if the plastic ones do, i keep them that way.

rpm arms and towers are nice on the T-Maxx and plan to upgrade the bulkheads to aluminum to take out some slop.

ultimately, my goal is to make a chassis as stiff as possible, and as light as possible.

Shabbernigdo

i try to keep stock alum and plastic parts and change steel parts to Ti for a bit of added str and weight savings. other then that i dont notmally buy alum to replace any plastic parts.

guver

My Feedback: (325)

I hate plastic motor mounts.

Haddi Taha

i look at the high end kits, if they have alloy suspensions mounts i get them for my cheaper plastic fantastic rc's, if they are plastic i don't bother, the amount some people spend on blinging is amazing.

The_Shark

yep, saw a rc18 alumium kit for $160[X(] you can buy another car for that

plus if it breaks you have to spend it again...

Steve.

I'm not a big fan of aluminum for bling factor and always try to think of any collateral damage that may occur simply because the hop up in question is stronger than the surrounding parts. That said I voted RPM only. Sure there are cars like the Baja that need certain plastic parts replaced with aluminum because the plastic versions break on impact like it's shock towers.

My Baja, SC10s, RC 10, and Savage all have RPM arms because they are much better than stock and flex rather than bend. I'd much rather go overboard with heavy duty drivetrain parts and engines or motors. Hub carriers are the only suspension parts I buy in aluminum because they take a lot of the slop out of the suspension that's inherent in molded hubs, they are verry worthwhile.

john01374

If it;s going to sit on your shelf then feel free to add as much Alum as you can afford. If you want it to actually run, drive and be reliable then RPM is the way to go. I've bought various Alum pieces for cars over the years and eventually go back to good old plastic after the alum bends or causes something else to break.

ElectricGuy007

I'll be going a little aluminum and RPM on my SC10.
First Im beefing up the front end with RPM GT2 A-ARMS AND BULKHEAD.
ALSO YOU GOTTA BUY THE GT2 HINGE PINS FOR $5.
Second is an RPM BUMPER AND BRACE SET.

MY VOTE IS:
ALUMINUM BULKHEADS on the front and rear,
AND CASTER BLOCKS ON THE FRONT, ALUMINUM HUB CARRIERS ON THE REAR
, RPM PLASTIC EVERYWHERE ELSE.
ALUMINUM SHOCK TOWERS ARE NOT NECCESSARY. If you do get aluminum
shock towers there's a 75% chance you'll break a chassis eventually...
When you screw a screw into the aluminum make sure to put a drop
of blue threadlocker on the screw, so it doesnt end up breaking off inside of the
aluminum part.

Basically just mix RPM PLASTIC with aluminum.
sorry caps lock.....