r/c_freak

got a nice deal on this car, so i wanna see what i can do with it. Being the xxx-s is kinda well old, i have had a hard time finding chassis's. i start my search for a carbon fiber one, but only found a graphite one, I picked that up since these chassis's are discontinued anyways, that way if something happens i will have the plastic as a spare. Not sure what the weight loss is yet, but once I take apart the XXX-s, i can weigh that chassis and find out. Also I am looking for the sway bar kit for this car and havent found any yet, does anyone know if the XXX-4 sway bar kit can fit? the chassis are the same it seems, i know the arms would be longer since its a buggy, but does anyone know if the mounting locations are close enough?? i will have pics up as i rebuild this thing as since it is used, i wanna do a tear down and make sure everything is everything, you know.

Now i got a buddy who i most likely be pracitcing with on the track that has a tc5 with a 17.5 + timing, i could go and grab a 13.5 and keep up no issue, but besides luck, what would be needed to keep up???

gokemidoro

You have to post pics of it, once it's finished.

The graphite chassis won't save much weight, some, but not much. It will be stiffer, though, so that's a plus.

Aren't buggies 1/8th scale? I'm not sure if those swaybars will fit.

On your last questioin......Practice lots and lots of practice!

r/c_freak

SOOOOOO i totally scored today, i was ready to give up on finding some parts for this car, when the hobby shop that i go to alot called me saying they found some stuff for me in the back, as they dont send anything back, they just store it till whenever.  I picked up a graphite chassis, front and rear sway bars, and im gonna get some graphite towers too, i just didnt have the cash top get those.  Im interested in gearing opinions, what would be good for an indoor track, mostly technical with a straight

gokemidoro

Take note of what's in it now, and gear down a bit. I would get a few pinions and spurs, and test which will work better for your style of driving. I cannot give you my recs, as you may not drive like I do (pretty aggressive), so experimentation is the best I can tell you, but gearing down would be a good step for a technical track.

Test your towers for flex. If they don't flex much, or at all, just go with what you got (though carbon towers would look cool).

r/c_freak

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6"></w:lsdexception><w:lsdexception locked="false" priority="70" semihidden="false" unhidewhenused="false" name="Dark List Accent 6"></w:lsdexception><w:lsdexception locked="false" priority="71" semihidden="false" unhidewhenused="false" name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"></w:lsdexception><w:lsdexception locked="false" priority="72" semihidden="false" unhidewhenused="false" name="Colorful List Accent 6"></w:lsdexception><w:lsdexception locked="false" priority="73" semihidden="false" unhidewhenused="false" name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"></w:lsdexception><w:lsdexception locked="false" priority="19" semihidden="false" unhidewhenused="false" qformat="true" name="Subtle Emphasis"></w:lsdexception><w:lsdexception locked="false" priority="21" semihidden="false" unhidewhenused="false" qformat="true" name="Intense Emphasis"></w:lsdexception><w:lsdexception locked="false" priority="31" semihidden="false" unhidewhenused="false" qformat="true" name="Subtle Reference"></w:lsdexception><w:lsdexception locked="false" priority="32" semihidden="false" unhidewhenused="false" qformat="true" name="Intense Reference"></w:lsdexception><w:lsdexception locked="false" priority="33" semihidden="false" unhidewhenused="false" qformat="true" name="Book Title"></w:lsdexception><w:lsdexception locked="false" priority="37" name="Bibliography"></w:lsdexception><w:lsdexception locked="false" priority="39" qformat="true" name="TOC Heading"></w:lsdexception></w:latentstyles></xml><![endif]><![if gte mso 10]><style type="text/css"> Style Definitions */table.MsoNormalTable{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;mso-style-noshow:yes;mso-style-priority:99;mso-style-qformat:yes;mso-style-parent:"";mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;mso-para-margin-top:0in;mso-para-margin-right:0in;mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt;mso-para-margin-left:0in;line-height:115%;mso-pagination:widow-orphan;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri;mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri;mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}</style><![endif]><p class="MsoNormal">Ok so this is starting point of my rebuild project.<span style=""> </span>A rolling Losi XXX-s, I haven&rsquo;t driven onroad so a buddy gave me a good deal so I could give it a try.<span style=""> </span>However for some reason I can never find satisfaction in an rc unless I have put some money and time into it.<span style=""> </span>So that&rsquo;s what I did with this one.<span style=""> </span>This is the rtr version, so its all that plastic.<span style=""> </span>First upgrade was to go graphite, so I went and bought a whole bunch of graphite stuff.</p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal">Put the new arms, towers and sway bars on, started out with thin in front and thick in back.<span style=""> </span>I was told later this was backwards, so I switched it once I got home.<span style=""> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal">The vxl system I had was why to big and heavy to even try to put on this car, so I went out and bought a new system</p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal">Never had to solder my own wires to a esc before, but it came out ok</p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal">This was the nicest, cleanest way I could find to put the electronics for best results.</p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal">And finally the finished project, I didn&rsquo;t rebuild the diffs as I was told the car was only driven a few times, and the guy who owned it took care of his stuff.<span style=""> </span>I did however rebuild the shocks (much harder than I thought they would be, and messy) as I want to go lighter on the fluid.<span style=""> </span>I went with 50 and 40 weight, had 60 in it before all the way around.</p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal">At this point I took it to the track to try it out, fyi, I am a total newb to onroad.<span style=""> </span>I didn&rsquo;t know camber meant so much, or all the little adjustments that can be done to improve cornering ability.<span style=""> </span>So I had to real big issues.<span style=""> </span>1^st I could not carry speed through a turn without my tail spinning out, over all very loose in corners.<span style=""> </span>2^nd was my flipping, trying to keep up with my buddy, I would flip in the turns sometimes while he went faster straight through it.</p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal">After talking with one of the track employees, I discovered my newb but had the suspension messed up.<span style=""> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal">Camber is good now</p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal">The front sway bar has also been replaced,
</p><p class="MsoNormal">Along with the rear.</p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal">And here are a few shots to leave you with</p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p>

gokemidoro

Tekin, huh? Pricey, but good stuff.

I'm glad the track guys helped sort out your settings. Have you checked your front/rear and right/left weight balance? If you have access to a "tri-ruler." you can set the chassis on the edge and see if the balance is good. Left/right is critical for turns, and front/rear will help with your style of driving.

Also, for the front/rear weight balance, you seem to have enough room to move the ESC directly behind the servo, if need be, and place the receiver (it doesn't weigh much at all, and is small enough) on top of the belt cover, provided you need to move weight forward (I would do this in any case, I prefer my setup favoring the front).

Heheh! Now all you have to do is do up a nice display body (you have a nice basher, there)!! Few more tweaks, and you'll be cooking!

r/c_freak

yeah well everyone talks about tekin, and if im gonna buy something new, might as well spend the extra bucks for something good.

i have seen the front/back and left/right balancers, but havent gotten a change to use one.  i want to.

the only reason i placed the speedo there is that where you are talking about the receiver is there, and i wasnt sure about  radio interence if i placed them to close, but after do the front back balance, i might move things around anyways as im sure the car is heavier on the rear left side than anywhere else.  but it doesnt weigh much at all, so i dont know how much it would help. 

And you like my body, hehe, yeah i just wanted something to play with, when the time comes i will most likely go with the mazda 6 body as its the only 190mm body i like that is used for racing. 

gokemidoro

Nah, radio interference with the 2.4 Ghz is negligible. I have receiver/ESC spacing in a couple of my chassis very close, and don't have any problems whatsoever.

Oh, believe me, in cars with low all-up weights, grams make a difference! The heavier ones (like my Tamiyas) are less sensitive to small weight changes, but if your chassis is lightweight, even moving the ESC is a major weight shift. You might also get some lead weights, to make up any differences in left/right balance. It might sound like splitting hairs, but the track manners of the car will be greatly improved, I assure you.

You want to beat your buddy, right? Try to make the drivetrain as smooth and drag-free as possible. I normally run my belts a hair looser than normal. Not much more, mind you, but looser, overall. Seems to help, and the motor/ESC doesn't get hot.

Also, if there is a one-way front diff available for the XXX-S, get it. It will help the car in the turns. If not, then adjust the front diff stiffer (less diff action) than the rear. You don't want to lock it, but make it so both front tires drive the car out of turns....cuts down push, and will give you better speed out of the apex.

Mazda 6 huh? Seen the new Honda Civic body from Tamiya? it's 190mm, and they race those, though that class is more like bumper cars, to me!

r/c_freak

thanks for the advise, i have seen those honda bodies, but im a mazda guy,  i wouldnt mind grabing a fc body for having some fun to replace this silvia body, as i drive a fc.

r/c_freak

here is my new setup, gonna try it out next week

gokemidoro

Looking good, dude!

Don't forget the lead weights when you go to the track. I may be wrong, but it looks like you might need some (a little) on the left side, to counterbalance the battery on the right, but you won't know till you try it out.

Otherwise, have fun with it!! Let us know how it does!!

ElectricGuy007

I dont care what anyone else says but you wont be disappointed with the tekin setup in that car.
Tell us how your race went when you return. Im just glad I found someone on this site that
bought a tekin setup for a change, hasnt been one on here in a long time.[&o]
Me and you might be the only ones that have them.

r/c_freak

yeah it looks like i might be able to weight them tonight, i dont think i will have the proper scales, but i will be able to get an idea.  a buddy has has three identical digital scales, so i might be able to do side to side.  we will see.

that kinda surprised me when i seen you say not alot of people run tekin, i hear they are great, why wouldnt you want the best???  well at least we know

and of course i will let you guys know how it runs, i might even turn the video camera on this time if i do good enough

gokemidoro

Yah, Tekin's pricey, but good, like I said. I liked the power delivery. I just went to Castle exclusively, because I already had the Castle link and field card, and Castle stuff is less expensive, and bulletproof, so I just went with them. Nothing wrong with Tekin, I just won't ever buy Novak. Now there's garbage.
They buy the cheapest components from the far east and charge premium price for it. Make no mistake....Novak is the cheapest junk you'll ever paythe highest pricefor,of all the manufacturers.

Vid? Yah! VID, dude! I'd like to see it in action!

r/c_freak

ok so the flipping issues have been resolved.  which is great, however i have ran into a new issue.  currently im running the orange spur, which is the smallest i can get for this car, and the biggest pinion gear i can get to fit is a 41 tooth.  currently temping around 110 after 10 -15 minutes of track, so i know i can gear up without issue to gain some top end in the straight, but i can not fit anything bigger in their.  any ideas??   So far though i really do like the tekin setup, small easy to configure, and so far hasnt gotten all crazy hot. 

gokemidoro

Try 64 pitch. I have seen a larger range of sizes for both pinion/spur. Thing is, watch out for hole spacing. Make sure what you get will bolt right in. You will have to compare for diameters, since tooth count will obviously not correspond.
Thing about 64 pitch is it's really quiet, but gear mesh is VERY important. Since the XXX-S's belts are fully enclosed, no worries about debris getting in, mucking things up, but stripping the gears is a possibility, if the gear mesh isn't damn near perfect.

I run 64 pitch, and love it. VERYsmooth, and quiet. Also let's me know if something is up, because the car will make noise that can be heard.

So check out 64P and see if you can find what you need.

EDIT:

Also, get a fan for the motor. Better to be safe than sorry, because if you do gear upon pinion/spur, it will get hotter, so keep it as cool as you can.

proanti1

My Feedback: (2)

64 pitch wears out pretty fast on a 4wd touring car... its great for pan cars, I run it on all of mine, but I did notice the lifespan of the spur was about half in my pro4.

r/c_freak

i thought about going to that pitch, but i would like to avoid that if possible. I was able to get a 45 to fit last night if i put it on through the bottom plate of the car. looking at it from that angle, i noticed the pinion gear doesnt hit anything straight on, rather the belt cover follows the chassis's v type shape causing the inside part to rub against the wall. Their is a chance i might be able to shaved just off some of the inside wall section as doing so might allow me to fit something much bigger and still maintain an enclosed belt. i'll take pics while im doing this and post them if it works out.
also went and picked up a fan, thx

r/c_freak

Also my car currently has came in at a total weight of 2.96 lbs, without balance adjustment. But I can't find two scales that can weight this much in grams, so until I do I will most likey not be doing any balance adjustments. Is 2.96 lbs heavy for a onroad touring car??

gokemidoro

If that's with a battery, nope. I have balanced chassis that weigh considerably more.

r/c_freak

yeah that is with battery and fan mounted, although i need to get a better battery for this one as it is only  the discharge rating for this is low

gokemidoro

You don't necessarily need scales (though it is the most accurate way), as you can balance it at the track. An unbalanced chassis will prefer turning one way better than the other. This will become apparent. All you need do is apply weight to the offending side (most of the time, but not always, it's the ESC/motor side) until the car turns equally in both directions. I did it this way until I got my set-up station.
You may consider investing in at least three batteries per chassis. That way, you can have two at your disposal, while charging the third. Since my charger does only one at a time, the three battery rule works out pretty well. 5000Mah/35C has long enough run times to make it possible.

r/c_freak

ok so i did the math and i should have a final drive ratio of three.six,six.  is this a good final drive ratio, i know nothing about final drive ratios or how they affect the car.  cant wait for tuesday, i get to test it out with the  new pinion

gokemidoro

I normally don't do the numbers (Yah, I'm a lazy SOB), I go by temp and speed, and how well the car handles. If you have other pinions and spurs (always a good idea), bring them, and toolsto the track with you, as you may want to change them out, to see what works best.
While you have time, go through the chassis and see if you can make the drive system as free-wheeling as possible, removing as much drag on the drivetrain as you can. That will not only help control temps, but make the car's power response faster, and in turn, more controllable.

I remove the grease in the bearings (all of them), and put a drop of oil in them, and loosen the belts just a "tad", to make the driveline less stiff. I go by 4-5mm play in the belts (press them down-the long belt 4-5mm, the short belt 3mm), but no more.

Heheh! I'd like to hear how you do on tuesday!

r/c_freak

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADNiIGJZccc[/youtube]